Water Transfer Camo....

[Warwitch]

Has anybody here had anything coated using a water transfer process? Im considering having a couple of things done up in Multicam and I was curious about its durability. Whats the expected lifespan? Any good/bad experiences?

thanks,
War

[Warwitch]

Damn, 90 views and nobody knows anything about the process

[MisterBones25]

are you talking about the SPO finish? do you have a link or pictures?

[mstrdbz]

I posted a tread about it here about three weeks ago, here's a link:http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=214184

Most of the replies I got were to go with duracoat.

As for the process, the company I work for has some of our products coated this way. They are made of acrylics and the finish seems to work pretty well on them, as far as not coming off when the parts scrap each other, but I can take a knife to them and scrap the finish off that way. I took am still interested in this process, but I need to get a different finish on my stainless body. (Probably bead blasted, since I forgot stainless can't be anno'ed)

Bones - Here's a link to a gallery for a company that offers this service:http://www.dynamicfinishes.com/photo...=content_album

[rmg]

Warwitch, if the finish is like in the link that mstrdbz posted, the process looks like what Hoyt Archery puts on their camo bows. Pretty tuff stuff for all the more it is, should last a long while, it does on archery equipment anyway.

[Warwitch]

Thanks for the responses. I actually wanted to get a Multicam ano job, but considering the cost and the complexity of the E-tac rails it just didnt seem like a good prospect. If you go to the Crye Precision Homepage website it says you can get their Multicam in a water transfer film. They have a link for an approved shop:

Approved Coaters:
Lakota Industries, www.lakota-industries.com Contact: Dick Williamson


As rmg said, they use the process to do camo on hunting bows and ATV's. I spoke to Dick via email and he said the typical paintball marker job was around $150 plus a little extra for barrels and misc. parts. The finish looks amazing! He said it uses an acrylic top-coat very similar to automotive clearcoat, with a similar toughness. He also said turnaround time was about two weeks.

Well for what you get (a true Crye Multicam finish/pattern/colors) its hard not to at least consider it as an alternative to ano. And at that price, if you have to do it again in a couple of years, no biggie. It wont change tolerances like multiple ano strippings. Its a lot to consider. But in the end, if I dont like it, it can still be stripped of the coating and anod.

Edit: on a side note. Crye's website shows the coating on a knife blade so that would have to be pretty tough. It is deninitely military grade stuff, but will it hold up as good as the Duracoat Direct stuff

[maglover728]

Thanks for starting this thread. I may have to do this to one of my markers.

[Warwitch]

Here are a couple of links to stuff I have found. i.e How its done, different patterns, etc.

http://www.watertransferprinting.com/

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/watertransfer/water_prodinfo.htm

There is plenty out there if you Google it. But these will give you a good idea of what can be done.

One of the really nice things about this process is that you arent limited to just camo. They can pretty much print any graphic, texture or pattern on the film and then apply it.

[FIST2CUFF]

I posted a tread about it here about three weeks ago, here's a link:http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=214184



"but I can take a knife to them and scrap the finish off that way"

Bones - Here's a link to a gallery for a company that offers this service:http://www.dynamicfinishes.com/photo...=content_album

I think a knife will scrap the finish off of most anything!

[mag_lover05]

hydrographic printing on a paintball marker.....ingenious

[reflective]

If I am not mistaken, I believe that is the process that tippmann uses on their real tree camo versions of the 98 and A5. If that is the case, it should hold up fine. When I use to work in hunting and fishing sales I handled a lot of products with that finish and it is very nice.

As far as duracoat, I personally love the stuff. I have duracoated rifles for friends and others; I did one handgun for a friend and recently used it on a spyder project...... if you want to see pics of the spyder go here
free hand camo tl.
It may not look super sweet, but I disappear pretty easily in the FL woodlands.

[Warwitch]

If I am not mistaken, I believe that is the process that tippmann uses on their real tree camo versions of the 98 and A5. If that is the case, it should hold up fine. When I use to work in hunting and fishing sales I handled a lot of products with that finish and it is very nice.

As far as duracoat, I personally love the stuff. I have duracoated rifles for friends and others; I did one handgun for a friend and recently used it on a spyder project...... if you want to see pics of the spyder go here
free hand camo tl.
It may not look super sweet, but I disappear pretty easily in the FL woodlands.

Actually I think it looks pretty sweet Im pretty comfortable with an airbrush so Im still considering the Duracoat. But I can see where somebody could easily screw up the paint job and make a $1,000 marker look like a turd

[mstrdbz]

I think a knife will scrap the finish off of most anything!

Indeed!

[Warwitch]

I just wanted to post up some quotes from Dick Williamson @ Lakota

A typical paint ball gun is $110. extra barrels are $30 each. This will give you an idea as far as price. Turnaround is generally one to two weeks and is for any reason it looks like it would spill over into the third week we will let you know before that.

Dick

Water Transfer printing uses a very durable automotive clear coat so in answer to your question it should be as scratch resistant as your car. As far as how long will it last the quick answer is indefinitely. It will not fade or rub off and if it does we have failed you miserably. Oil and basic cleaners will not harm the finish but I would not apply harsh agents such as acetone or laquer thinners to the surface. Assault rifle style markers such as the M4 will run a few bucks more to have decorated because of the complexity of their shape.

Dick

I just hate to paraphrase, especially when it comes to something I know next to nothing about

Im still awaiting a response from him about how the prep process will affect the ano and tolerances. And also about masking areas that I dont want the film applied. Like metal to metal contact areas (frame/rail/body).

Let me know if there are any other questions I can get answered for you guys while Im chatting with them.



EDIT:

Wow, the guy is really quick to respond to email. Big plus. He replies:

We can mask off areas that you do not want covered. We will not do anything to the anodize finish other than basecoat for the film to adhere. While the coating is intended to be be permanent, it is possible to remove it by immersing in thinner for several hours. As far as tolerances go we have not had any issues arise as a result of film dipping. We are not decorating interior areas such as bores for that reason. Hope this answers your questions.

Dick

Looks like I might be going this route guys. I will keep you posted on progress.

[turbo chicken]

any progress ... i'm interested to see this !!!