hyper frame

[BigTrucker]

Okay i just got a used hyper fame and it will not work. Does anyone know where i can get a manual for it and parts so i can fix it. o yea it came with a votex body. I just found out that i need a smaller bolt to use it. any one knoe where i can get one??

[MisterBones25]

what do you mean its not working? do you have ult? you need it. centerflag's website should have a manual. http://automags.org/forums/showthrea...ght=hyperframe hyperframe faq. hope this helps.

[BigTrucker]

what do you mean its not working? do you have ult? you need it. centerflag's website should have a manual. http://automags.org/forums/showthrea...ght=hyperframe hyperframe faq. hope this helps.

Ahh that what it is. do you know where i can get one?? or can i not use it on a classic??? i rember reading about that but dont rember if it was on a classic or not

[MisterBones25]

Ahh that what it is. do you know where i can get one?? or can i not use it on a classic??? i rember reading about that but dont rember if it was on a classic or not

you can use ult on a classic, from what i hear, you just need to shim the heck out of it. agd's website is probably the best place to get one. rouge, tuna, im sure those guys have them in stock too.

[Coralis]

Actually both of my classic valves only required two shims when i use my hyperframe on my micromag.

[BigTrucker]

okay i feel like a dork for not knowing what a ult is. I am sure when someone tells me what it is i will go Duh... and where and what kind of shims do i put in???

[nevtangle]

okay i feel like a dork for not knowing what a ult is. I am sure when someone tells me what it is i will go Duh... and where and what kind of shims do i put in???

It's the Ultra Light Trigger kit. You can also try to put an RT on/off in the classic valve. The ULT is hit or miss in the classics. It might work and it might not. Good Luck

[Coralis]

There is also a way to change the amount of "energy" being sent to the solenoid ...ill have to dig out my manual and look it up also try looking here (its called the service mode) http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...t=sanding+bolt

[MisterBones25]

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=96538 pics dont work any more, but it should give you an idea what ult is and how it works. the solenoid in the hyperframe is not strong enough to activate the stock on/off so you need the ult to make the solenoid's job easier.

[Pneumagger]

in a classic valve you can get away with using an "RT" on/off instead of the expensive ULT. Plus, ULT is a gamble for classic valves as it doesnt seem to work in all of them. The RT on/off should drop force nearly in half.

[Paintchucker]

It's the Ultra Light Trigger kit. You can also try to put an RT on/off in the classic valve. The ULT is hit or miss in the classics. It might work and it might not. Good Luck

BigTrucker,

Did the Hyperframe come with a new on/off with it? As I recall, mine did. I guess over the years, people have learned to sub in ULTs and RT on/offs.

When I fiddle around with my emag, I sometimes play with the lowers/rail/sear assembly. I can test if the solinoid is working. I don't remember if the same thing works on the hyperframe or not...

[BigTrucker]

BigTrucker,

Did the Hyperframe come with a new on/off with it? As I recall, mine did. I guess over the years, people have learned to sub in ULTs and RT on/offs.

When I fiddle around with my emag, I sometimes play with the lowers/rail/sear assembly. I can test if the solinoid is working. I don't remember if the same thing works on the hyperframe or not...

No it did not. I got it used and it came with a main body that i had never seen before. I tried to put my classic into this body but for some reason it would not go in. Then i realized the the Level 10 bolt was too big. However the level 7 bolt droped right in. not sure what to do do about the level 10 bolt problem. anyone think it would be okay to shave it down a bit???

[Coralis]

Yep i had to sand down my bolt to make it fit in my micro mag . You have what looks like a galactic Z body . My hyperframe worked for awhile with a RT on/off then one day it just wouldnt work anymore and i had to switch to a ult . Like i posted you can try going to the service mode and increasing the energy going to solenoid

[sheister]

The hyper frames used to come with an special on/off made by centerflag. I have been using a hyperframe for 6 years and was never able to achieve the same performance using the ULT in place of centerflags on/off. If you can find one of the centerflag on/off's I highly recommend using it as it is more simple in design (no shimms) and seems to perform better. Yes I know about using service mode and increasing the power still didnt make the ult perform better. Interms of my personal observed diffrences, The centerflag on/off provided seamless bursts @ 20bps in semi auto, double fingering up to about 12-15bps. With the ULT I got some burping and half shots. Not too much though. I did adjust my ULT several times with shims, lube.pins. Nothing would work to alleviate the misfiring.

Ok there is one bad thing about CenterFlags on/off. It has a round head that protrudes slightly beyond the curvature of the body (once inserted into the valve that is) so when you go to insert the valve the protruding head intersects the bottom part of the body in a T like fashion. The makes insertion of the valve impossible. Soooo there is a very easy solution and it called a dremel. The protruding parts can be easily dremeled down in minutes without efecting any part of the performance. (Note this may not be a problem if the Centerflag on/off is inserted into a classic valve, I think. I havent had a classic valve in a long time and I havent teched on in a while either. This problem may be exclusive to the retro valve and X valve. But dont quote me on that)

I am not trying to down talk anything made by AGD. The ult trigger is a sweet upgrade for the Mag and I am aware of a lot of people who would disagree with my opinion about the CenterFlag On/off verses the ULT on/off. The only thing I can say is that I have over 100 hours of tech experience with my any many other Hyperframes that I have made work. All I have come across except a couple, performed better with the CenterFlag on/off. I have to say though this may very much depend if you have an old CenterFlag board that only goes up to 12 BPS (I think) or the latest board (LOL came out in 2k2 i think) this board shoots up to 20bps in semi mode. If your board doesnt exceed 12 bps then you may just wanna go with the ULT (easier to find,NO dremmeling). If you have 20 bps board and it seems like the valve is blooping with the ULT on/off, then you have another option that will probably work.

I have included a of pic of the centerflag on/off and a lousy pic of mine that kind of shows the dremmeling. I have been using this same very on/off since I got myhyperframe in Jan 2001. I have won more tournaments using this gun than any other. I have had the most outspoken mag critics drool over my gun after they give it a try. In my opinion the Original Mag configuration is the best platform to shoot from for way too many reasons. If you can get your HP to work you will be extremly pleased. Once working there is nothing that matches the reliability or small profile of a hyper framed mag! Or DEVILMAG for that matter?? Yeah those are even sweeter checkem out!

Center flag on/off circled
My Center Flag on/off you can see the sides are shaved down to allow it to fit when in an X valve

GOOD LUCK

[sheister]

10 bolt problem. anyone think it would be okay to shave it down a bit???

Sorry but I couldnt resist the part about bolt shaving. When I ran a store I sold many, many level 10 bolt kits. I know I am going to draw many jeers here but I almost had to shave down almost every one regardless of the body they were inserted into. It seems that the level 10 bolt is in two pieces. The top is inserted and then permantly sealed in some how to the bottom. If you look closely at the top of the level 10 bolt you can see where the two pieces meet. If you hold the bolt up and scan the area from the bottom of the bolt and slowly ease your way up to the top of the bolt you may find a slight buldge where the two pieces meet. This is a circular buldge which will either cause the bolt to not insert at all or it will catch on the body and will cause a lot of bloop shots. My solution to this is probably not the Best way but I worked for a huge paintball field with a cheap owner who wouldnt invest in any real tools. But i have used this method a million times and it never failed to work. Take the bolt off and get some duct tape. Cover the outside of the Level 10 bolt tube in the center with the tape just where it sticks out further than the bottom of the bolt not up inside. Once the center tube is covered, gently place the center tube in a drill and slowly tighten the drill down till it clasps the center tube of the level 10 bolt. I think you see where I am going here. The Drill will spin the bolt as you hold 1000grit sand paper around the bolt. The duct tape protects the level 10 bolt tube from damage from the drill. This process will take some trial and error unless you work in a machine shop. You should be able to slowly size the bulge down until the bolt will pass through the body with ease. I dont recommend anything under 1000grt for sand paper as you dont want to shave down too much. And be very sure that the duct tape fully protects the parts being clasped by the drill/dremel. I never damaged a single bolt but that doesnt mean that the danger of doing so wasnt real.

Of course all of this depends on making some pre observations. Taking the level 10 bolt and only the bolt with its spring and dropping it down inside the body without the valve. Hold the gun up to the light and look into the body from the front making sure that the bolt has slid all the way down into the body. Make sure light is passing through the body from end to end. Now here is where this gets a little tricky, Use a squeegee or swab and push the bolt from back to front while looking in the body from the front (no barrel of course!). You should be able to get a good idea of the size diffrence between the bolt and the body if you do this correctly. If the diffrence is very slight you then the above procedure or a less ghetto way would probably work. If diffrence is huge like 2 or 3 millimeters than you may not want to attempt shaving (again unless you work in a machine shop or know somebody who does) and just go with the level 7 bolt.

I know this forum is packed with many expert machinists and they are probably cringing at my procedure. This post may possibly serve to discredit me with these people. But its not because I believe in doing things the wrong way. I just believe in being able to do it yourself without having to purchase equipment or send your parts off. When I attended AGD's last tech class I mentioned the bolt bulge directly to Tom Kaye. No offense to the great TK but he acted like he didnt know what I was talking about and quickly dismissed what I had said. I subsequently had to go on shaving bolts for almost 3 more years. Now I have been out of Paintball for a while and for all I know AGD has fixed this problem. But I was assuming that your recent purchase included the level 10 assembly that was probably made a while ago.

Well I hope this has helped and I hope the jeers are merciful.
Regards