G-Force to release pneumatic frames for the Mags

[babyface]

Stop shooting so fast!

It happens.. my barrel tends to chill from rapid firing. Ironically, feel the valve after firing off a few good ropes of paint. It gets surprisingly warm.

There's a whole slew of physics involved that I only know a little about so I'll just leave at that.

i was pushing the frame to see if it shot as fast as an electro. im sorry its a disease, im seeing professional help for it thanks

[Smoothice]

Also you have to put the sear extention on with the sear IN the rail. I did not use epxy or JB weld on mine as I dont want to have to break anything to get it back apart when I putthis back to the hAir set up.

it was a sad sad day today for me.

I have 2 things to say then I will go into detail.

I LOVE the performance of this frame

BUT

The design is completely

Story:

So because I have not found a permanent home for my gforce frame yet I have not epoxied the sear extender to the sear. I am using a classic rail so this would require me to break the epoxy seal if I wanted to change to a rt rail.

Gripe #1- You are unable to remove the sear from a classic rail with the sear extender still attached.

So I mount up the frame with just the screw holding the sear extender to the sear. After a bit of firing the frame starts acting funny. It won't shoot for a few trigger pulls and then it will shoot for a few and then back to nothing again. Every trigger pull I can hear the ram moving.

So I open up the frame and the sear extender has come off the sear. The little screw had backed it self out all the way from the vibration.

Gripe #2 - I think even if epoxy had been applied that little screw may still vibrate out.

So now I need to find a nut to put on the other end of the screw. I would rather break a little blue loctite then have to break the epoxy off the sear.

So here is the video I made before all hell broke loose. I wasn't on my A game with walking the trigger but she still shot a classic valve like it was an electro.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgxNg0RGLis

[matteusz]

it was a sad sad day today for me.

I have 2 things to say then I will go into detail.

I LOVE the performance of this frame

BUT

The design is completely

Story:

So because I have not found a permanent home for my gforce frame yet I have not epoxied the sear extender to the sear. I am using a classic rail so this would require me to break the epoxy seal if I wanted to change to a rt rail.

Two things that you should know:
#1 any shop that rushes to market then doesn't deliver while holding a patent really can't be expected to think their design through any better than they do the rest of the process.

#2 Both epoxy and blue loctite (especially epoxy) stop holding when heat is applied. Hold a lighter under the parts and get them warm (not hot enough to warp anything of course) and breaking the seal should become easy.

Of course the frames do seem to fire nicely for all the trouble you chaps went through. Anyone wanna sell theirs?

[tech-chan]

Why doesnt someone just quit griping and get someone to make them a elongated sear?

I'll buy one too.

[Smoothice]

Paging Luke. Luke to isle 3.

[tech-chan]

Paging Luke. Luke to isle 3.

Shoot if someone can get me accurate measurements and a frame I'll do it myself.

[LK-13]

Before you do anything rash,
WRAP THE SCREW IN TEFLON TAPE AND REINSTALL!!

the Teflon tape will dampen vibration and tighten the fit of the screw while still allowing it to be removed with out trashing anything.

it was a sad sad day today for me.

I have 2 things to say then I will go into detail.

I LOVE the performance of this frame

BUT

The design is completely

Story:

So because I have not found a permanent home for my gforce frame yet I have not epoxied the sear extender to the sear. I am using a classic rail so this would require me to break the epoxy seal if I wanted to change to a rt rail.

Gripe #1- You are unable to remove the sear from a classic rail with the sear extender still attached.

So I mount up the frame with just the screw holding the sear extender to the sear. After a bit of firing the frame starts acting funny. It won't shoot for a few trigger pulls and then it will shoot for a few and then back to nothing again. Every trigger pull I can hear the ram moving.

So I open up the frame and the sear extender has come off the sear. The little screw had backed it self out all the way from the vibration.

Gripe #2 - I think even if epoxy had been applied that little screw may still vibrate out.

So now I need to find a nut to put on the other end of the screw. I would rather break a little blue loctite then have to break the epoxy off the sear.

So here is the video I made before all hell broke loose. I wasn't on my A game with walking the trigger but she still shot a classic valve like it was an electro.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgxNg0RGLis

[insixdays777]

- Buy a brand new AGD sear.

I ordered one new, all my used sears seemed to be alot smaller...the new one fits SUPER tight. I use just a bit of blue locktight on the screw and just a tiny amount on the sear edges where it goes into the adapter most of the locktight pushes out the fit is so tight. I have to force the sear into the fitting.

[Smoothice]

- Buy a brand new AGD sear.

I ordered one new, all my used sears seemed to be alot smaller...the new one fits SUPER tight. I use just a bit of blue locktight on the screw and just a tiny amount on the sear edges where it goes into the adapter most of the locktight pushes out the fit is so tight. I have to force the sear into the fitting.

The sear I was using fit incredibly tight. I had to force it on and off. It fit much tighter then the first sear I used. I'll give a little locktight a try next.

Any one know what size screw these use? I may look to see if I can find the right sized nut.

[Smoothice]

Before you do anything rash,
WRAP THE SCREW IN TEFLON TAPE AND REINSTALL!!

the Teflon tape will dampen vibration and tighten the fit of the screw while still allowing it to be removed with out trashing anything.

I'll give that a shot also. The screw is SO tiny I wonder if I will even be able to wrap it.

[skyless]

where is my frame

I have been checking usps since it has left Canada and it says it has not arrived in the country, anyone else having troubles, I really thought i would have it by now.

from CA post
2008/08/28 04:59 International shipment has arrived in the destination country
2008/08/27 07:43 International item has left Canada
2008/08/25 23:34 MISSISSAUGA, ON Item processed at postal facility
2008/08/25 12:55 MARKHAM, ON Item accepted at the Post Office

from usps
We have received notice that the originating post is preparing to dispatch this mail piece.

I am really hoping that the customs officer is not into mags or else i may never see it.

[Chronobreak]

mine took about 10 shipping days, 4-5 days sitting at customs + a few more to get to me, i wouldnt be worried yet.

[p8ntbal4me]

I have been checking usps since it has left Canada and it says it has not arrived in the country, anyone else having troubles, I really thought i would have it by now.

from CA post
2008/08/28 04:59 International shipment has arrived in the destination country
2008/08/27 07:43 International item has left Canada
2008/08/25 23:34 MISSISSAUGA, ON Item processed at postal facility
2008/08/25 12:55 MARKHAM, ON Item accepted at the Post Office

from usps
We have received notice that the originating post is preparing to dispatch this mail piece.

I am really hoping thet the customs officer is not into mags or else i may never see it.

My information is the same as yours. Suppsedly its in the US,.... cant imagine what is taking so long.

~ P8nt

[PhoenixWolf]

Just use blue Loctite. I don't trust epoxy. I've had nothing but bad luck when using it. I've used it, I've seen my grandfather use it, and I've seen the stuff debond countless times. It doesn't take a lighter to debond it. No, just a couple of years being stored at 70-80 degrees is enough to make it degrade. And in Arizona, outside temperatures of 100+ are common which further speeds its degradation. I would fully expect this stuff to debond on me during a game. Epoxy sucks, and it's not really a glue. It's just a binary plastic that works like filling in a mold rather than forming any actual chemical bond. I'd trust superglue over epoxy any day.

[UThomas]

So what's Garf's email - because I'd like to pick one up now. I'm assuming enough people canceled that there should be some available...