Spider's Garage has some available space for jeweling bodies

[Spider-TW]

can you do the crown point tips?

They would be just like the holes in the minimag body; I stick to the pattern and make partial imprints wherever I hit an edge.

[Spider-TW]

Did some valves. One for someone else that I liked, so I did one of mine.

[Brownstar]

Looks awesome on the valve, gj.

[Loguzzzzzz]

Are you still offering this service?

Will PM too.

[Spider-TW]

Answered the pm's back then; but for the record, yes still doing this stuff.

I still don't have my own polishing machine. I'll probably break down this summer and add one to the garage.

[Pneumagger]

Do the valves need any additional polishing before they can be jeweled?
Does the polishing and/or jeweling erase the valvee laser engraving?

[Spider-TW]

Do the valves need any additional polishing before they can be jeweled?
Does the polishing and/or jeweling erase the valvee laser engraving?

Yes, the valves need polishing. The price above includes disassembly, polishing, cleaning, and re-assembly. I discount that price for any portion of that you care to do, except the cleaning after polishing (I can't leave the abrasive running loose). I will do a fully polished and gutted valve for $25 plus shipping.

The jeweling doesn't erase the laser engraving, the polishing will. I generally go around the serial numbers (especially if they match) unless requested otherwise.

The better the polish, the deeper the jeweling will appear. Jeweling by itself will not erase much of anything, including machine marks, blasting pits, scratches, etc. I have stepped on the tip of a serial number before and it is certainly readable afterward. Rough surfaces produce a 'cloud' effect in the jeweling, like having permanent fingerprints on the surface.

I haven't seen one yet, but you could take a dremel and polish all around the laser engraving and then jewel on top of that, which might be interesting.

In theory, I'm using something around a 180 grit. However, I can't bear down or generate heat, so it is only a surface treatment. The other end is that it is very difficult for anyone to see the actual surface roughness when it has less than about 1500 grit finish. The lower grits tend to hide the roughness from your eye. The roughness then comes out as cloudy jeweling. That's why I have to jewel parts that are polished well beyond the grit size I finish with.

This summer I will be testing some spar urethane coating over bare aluminum.

[Dover]

Could you jewel a CCI Phantom bolt ?

[Spider-TW]

Could you jewel a CCI Phantom bolt ?

Yes, I could. Either you have an unusual phantom, or you're just looking at the old practical use of jeweling for lubrication. Round stainless is still my favorite. Flat aluminum is nice, it's just the final coating that makes it troublesome. The urethane works fine on non-wearing parts. I have some promaster eye covers that did well.

I'm thinking a regular phantom bolt would be about $10 plus shipping. Which might be more in your case. I can polish it if it's still smooth. If it has some serious dings in it, you might want to take that metal down yourself.

[Dover]

I have read that polishing the Phantom bolt results in a smoother pump stroke, less resistance, increased efficiency

Shipping to Canada is cheapest via good old USPS, something as light as a Phantom bolt would definitely be under a five bux, probably just a dollar or two...

In any case i am willing to make it $ 15 US if you could PM your Name and Address please

[Dover]

Thanks for the PM, i tried doing a little hand polishing with Brasso but ultimately i went online and looked up Metal Polishing

Apparently not only can you use abrasive compounds like paste but for really fine stainless finishes they use diamond paste and even lubricate with oil ?

There is not much wear or damage to the stainless steel Phantom bolt, but i figured a smoother surface results in less drag and higher performance ...

Plus the jeweling effect has a unique look !!!

[Spider-TW]

I can put a final finish on it with a wheel. I just don't have any heavy cutting compound at the moment. The kind I like comes in big chunks but dries out.

I need to go look at my nelspot and see what that phantom bolt finish was, pretty smooth to start iirc. Automag bead blast finish is pretty hard to get rid of for jeweling. A few random pits and marks don't show up, but a blasted surface has to be polished down below the bottom of all of the pits. It starts looking very shiny well before that, and spots that look like a finger smudge are usually clouds of pit bottoms that were missed.