Looks like a warp body to me... otherwise you would see a slot on the passenger side.
New Warperior Rail Presale - TimmyJay (design) & XMT (milling)
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im not worrried about paying you or anyone else, i will do all the work my self since i have rotor shell molds i made. i was just looking for your opinion, before i dable in this mod.Originally posted by TimmyJayUnfornunately, I don't think the ROTOR would work. The hopper mod in general would be too expensive to offer my (& my buddies) services. I would rather see someone make a new plastic insert with the feedtube inverted. Anyone with plastic molding connections or connections to the company that makes the loaders?
I am sure XMT can leave the front milling off (SLUG). I will touch base with him to find out for sure.
these molds are easily modified to accept the mod you have tailored. just checking base to see if a rotor is doable.
thankyou, and let me know about the slug setup.
i have plenty of uses in my mold shop to be able to acomidate myself., of course i run into problems if i offer the services to others for a price, since the shells of the rotor are not mine to sell. so i do my work for myself, sellfish i know but, yeah.
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KNMComment
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oh sorry didnt see you there kcombs,Originally posted by kcombs9you have 10 rotor's sitting around? PM me ill take one
Cool Idea Jimmy, wish I had a warp body for this but I can't afford to make that switch right now.
didnt elaborate much on that, 2 complete rotors the rest are parts .
so i recall my statement of 10 and say i have 2 working and enough parts to resemble 10 rotors, been working on some mobile projects for the mag lately, so i obtain alot of misc parts. its handy, but much more useless.
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KNM
*spelling allways crap.Comment
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jaguarshark
I hope I'm not taking this thread in the wrong direction, but what brass piping are you using to connect to your halo guts? It looks like it fits in there very well.
Thanks.Comment
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I used a 3/4" 90* street elbow and a 3/4" 45* street elbow from the plumbing dept. The 90* elbow was cut shorter (should be able to see in the picture). The 90* was epoxied (use a little on flat edge and lots on the outer edges) to the blue housing. Also, let the epoxy setup for awhile or you may find yourself holding it together and getting frustrated with every movement. I left the 45* to move freely. Makes it easier to line things up and allow for easier disassembly. You need to cut out a section which removes the center screw location. The dremel attachment we used would melt the plastic more than cut it. It is always difficult to do a permanent mod. Small calculated cuts and piece things together as you go through the stages. Measure twice or 10 times if needed. Lots of eyeballing.Originally posted by jaguarsharkI hope I'm not taking this thread in the wrong direction, but what brass piping are you using to connect to your halo guts? It looks like it fits in there very well.
Thanks.
Last edited by TimmyJay; 06-26-2012, 11:58 AM.Comment
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jaguarshark
Thanks!
Did you specifically need a 1" to 3/4" elbow? Or as long as it's 3/4" ID?
Connecting two of these: http://amzn.to/MQ9Yfl
should be ok, right?
Much thanks.Comment
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That looks identical as pictured. The smaller OD fits in the bigger ID so I just thought it was 1". It was just called a 3/4" street elbow.Originally posted by jaguarsharkThanks!
Did you specifically need a 1" to 3/4" elbow? Or as long as it's 3/4" ID?
Connecting two of these: http://amzn.to/MQ9Yfl
should be ok, right?
Much thanks.
I used a 90* and 45* to get the angle I wanted. You could probably line it up with just one fitting. The hose melts easy so it is a slow process to get it over the fitting(s). Hence, why I used the ULE standard feedneck.Last edited by TimmyJay; 06-26-2012, 12:00 PM.Comment
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jaguarshark -
So cool and looks awesome.
Just when you think its all been done with a mag.........
Fire power my friends.Comment
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I bought a clear halo shell about 2 years ago so i could do that very hopper mod i had in mind,Originally posted by BigEvilDAMN YOU! This is one of those things I have been meaning to try for a long time! Big time props!

Of coarse things came up ,& i put it on hold .Now that i see this thread ,...im gonna finish it
Thanks TimmyJay
Oh & the "Warperior" Rail of yours ,.....very coolComment
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I thought I would chime in to answer some of the questions that were posted here about the hopper mod.
I have info at this link for the first 2 builds that were done and also a shooting video. The link has most of the info that you would need to know to do the hopper mod.
Custom Halo Too Hose Fed Angel A4 Fly
1. This mod will not work with a rotor. The rotor has a different deck than a Halo style hopper.
2. This mod will only work correctly with a Reloader B2 or a Invert Halo Too loader. These are the models that you can turn off the tension sensor on them. This will not work at all with a regular Halo B since it has eyes.
I think that was all but just wanted to put that info out there so people aren't chopping up their loaders and then find out it won't work.Comment
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Wouldn't it also work with Magna internals in a Halo shell? I know you can turn off the tension sensor on it. I do that with my Smartguide setup.Originally posted by FlurryI thought I would chime in to answer some of the questions that were posted here about the hopper mod.
I have info at this link for the first 2 builds that were done and also a shooting video. The link has most of the info that you would need to know to do the hopper mod.
Custom Halo Too Hose Fed Angel A4 Fly
1. This mod will not work with a rotor. The rotor has a different deck than a Halo style hopper.
2. This mod will only work correctly with a Reloader B2 or a Invert Halo Too loader. These are the models that you can turn off the tension sensor on them. This will not work at all with a regular Halo B since it has eyes.
I think that was all but just wanted to put that info out there so people aren't chopping up their loaders and then find out it won't work.AO Feedback |*| MCB Feedback |*| Please ship to me in Canada using USPS (US shipping also an option...US Parcel Pickup)Comment





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