Logic Ripper EM - The Electro Solution - PreOrder

[gruntbull]

The finish looks a lot worse than it really is. Ten minutes with some 600 grit sandpaper and those marks are all history. But like I said, it chaps my *** to have to sand freshly CNC machined parts.

I think the problem is crud in my taper, which I will expunge when the taper cleaner arrives sometime this coming week. Hopefully by the time you see anything from this project, the finish will be much nicer.

Roger roger, one way or another it will get the finish you and I both think it should... CNC machine be warned... finishers have the final say!

[zackzel]

Sorry if I am jumping the gun just wondering if any progress has been made lately.

[CoolHand]

Sorry if I am jumping the gun just wondering if any progress has been made lately.

Well, most all of the time since the last update has been spent chasing a surface finish issue on the CNC machine. It's pointless to manufacture things if they are not up to snuff. So, I research, and I tinker, and I test, and eventually I will figure out a way to bring the machine back into spec. Either by hand finishing methods myself, or by having someone with a spindle grinder come in and grind the taper.

I've also been pondering what I'm going to do about the Karta eye covers, since I just recently realized that the previously designed Dallara covers will not work on a Karta. Much to my chagrin.

Add to that the fact that work (the day job work) has been murder for the last few weeks, and you get what we've got right now. Nearly no progress, and no updates because of it.

That is all.

[zackzel]

Well I am glad that quality is a high priority and thanks for the update

[gruntbull]

Coolhand,
Can you send me a sample part with that finish woe? Ted would like to take a look at difficulty in massaging out the issue.

-Bull

[CoolHand]

Coolhand,
Can you send me a sample part with that finish woe? Ted would like to take a look at difficulty in massaging out the issue.

-Bull

Yeah, I can do that. You're pretty much going to have to wet sand the surface down to about 800 grit or so before you start buffing, or you'll just end up destroying the dimensional accuracy of the part by over buffing in some places (makes the surface very wavy and kills the square corners). Don't ask me how I know this. . . . . . .

I could send you the prototype rail I just cut, but I want to have it here to compare with when I start working on the issue. I'm thinking that I'm just going to have to have the taper ground in place to fix it for good. What's a few thousand dollars between friends, right?

I'm sure you guys could fix the finish issue, but the problem would still be there on every piece I cut. Or, I can have the spindle ground and fix it once and for all.

Thanks for the offer though, if I cut anything else in the near future I will send it your way so you can do a test for me regardless of the machined finish. I've been wanting to see you all's work firsthand anyway.

[gruntbull]

Yeah, I can do that. You're pretty much going to have to wet sand the surface down to about 800 grit or so before you start buffing, or you'll just end up destroying the dimensional accuracy of the part by over buffing in some places (makes the surface very wavy and kills the square corners). Don't ask me how I know this. . . . . . .

I could send you the prototype rail I just cut, but I want to have it here to compare with when I start working on the issue. I'm thinking that I'm just going to have to have the taper ground in place to fix it for good. What's a few thousand dollars between friends, right?

I'm sure you guys could fix the finish issue, but the problem would still be there on every piece I cut. Or, I can have the spindle ground and fix it once and for all.

Thanks for the offer though, if I cut anything else in the near future I will send it your way so you can do a test for me regardless of the machined finish. I've been wanting to see you all's work firsthand anyway.

As long as it doesn't take us too long to finish its on the house, if we have hrs of finish on hand well you get the point. I agree with you, fix the problem at the base, you save time and money that way EVERYTIME. Cause in the end, you still have the problem and will still have to deal with it later... with even more cost.

[going_home]

NOOOOOOOOOO>>>

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=216526

[CoolHand]

Bummer.

Hate to see a guy wait all that time and then have to sell his spot.

BTW, I'm doing the CAM work for your eye covers and mount pockets today. Hopefully next weekend I can have an update with actual factual pics of the finished work.

We shall see how the CAM process goes.

[mobsterboy]

mmm, cant wait to get this gun. What kind of anno does number 10 spot come with? I'll start thinking up a scheme

[going_home]

TRIANGLE>>>

mmm, cant wait to get this gun. What kind of anno does number 10 spot come with? I'll start thinking up a scheme

What ? Triangle sold his spot ?
Boot camp musta went to his haid.

[CoolHand]

Just a bit of crummy news to report.

While I was working on the GCode for your eye covers Home, I realized (while verifying the already completed code) that my work holding scheme for these parts would not work at all.

I found that about half way through the roughing pass on the back sides of the covers, they would pop loose from their billet and rattle around inside the pocket I'd cut like little dice.

This good, because instead of destroying the parts and wasting an entire day of machine work, I found this out in the verify stage and was able to not make the mistake. This is bad because now my tools and I have to withdraw and regroup at our rally point to plan our counter attack. This also means another delay. GOD I'm getting sick of saying that. Just once I want something to go smoothly so I can tell you guys that something is FINISHED for a change.

I have to pull the spindle out of the CNC machine next weekend and send it off to be rebuilt. I had hoped to at least have Home's eye covers done before then, but that just ain't in the cards after this set-back. On the up side, your parts will be much smoother right out of the machine ( ), on the down side, the machine will be in pieces for at least a week, maybe two if I have a hard time finding the bearings I need. While I have the machine down and the spindle out, I'm going to go ahead and replace all the bearings in the gear head to quiet down the grumbles emanating from within. The re-builder has promised me a two day turn around once they get it (or rather just a swap for a newly rebuilt one really), so the only wait is truck freight both ways. I'm guessing this little foray is going to cost me somewhere in the neighborhood of $4500 before I'm all done with it.

Having machinery is WONDERFUL!

Oh well, it's only money, and when I'm done I'll have a spindle and gearbox to last another decade at least (especially with the way I use one).

Sorry the news isn't better, but I thought I ought to at least post something.

[thefool]

eek i never knew spindle rebuilds were so expensive

[CoolHand]

eek i never knew spindle rebuilds were so expensive

HA!

I talked to a fellow last week that had to put a spindle in medium sized Mazak VMC.

The bill? $14,750 . . . . . . . after he got his core deposit back.
He had to lay out nearly $40k to get them to cross ship a spindle cartridge to him to minimize his down time. They refunded the difference after his old one showed back up at the supplier's warehouse.

That spindle cost more than my entire machine did. The initial deposit cost more than this entire machine did when it was NEW.

Now, granted, that was a $300k machine, but it just illustrates that even though this bill stings, it can ALWAYS be worse.

[cyrus-the-virus]

it ALWAYS gets worse.... I want to see this project get done.