Pneumags and barrel breaks

[Dend78]

i give you two...lol

the second one is very clear

thats freakin cool, is the paint to large for the bore? to much drag and its followed by one a touch smaller that slides through and pops the other one?

[Spider-TW]

I'm sure it's short stroking. I have'nt experienced this problem with any EP mags.
I have experienced this with regular pneumags, especially before they are fine-tuned.

Exactly. Unless you can guarantee that you're not going to drop one finger immediately after the other (like an electronic dwell prevents) you have to settle for being human. The better tuned your pneumag is, the shorter the dwell needs to be and the less chance you have that you will trip over it.

The trouble with most mechanical dwells is that it just throws out your trigger pull instead of buffering it. If your fingers gallop at 14 bps with 3 pulls in the dwell time, you get 11 bps. That's a lot of engineering and troubleshooting for lost pulls. The other end is trying to get an affordable mechanism to control reliably on a constant timing of about 50 milliseconds.

[gommie404]

I 've been reading a lot lately about Pneumag users consistantly having paint breaks in the last 2 inches of the barrel, myself included. It occured to me that the Pneumag internals on the average Pnuemag runs at around 60-80 psi and if the ULT is installed 30-40 psi. The Gforce frame also works at around 30-40 psi. I have a Gforce frame and I still encounter ball breaks. So, I thought maybe the internal working pressure of the internals are causing drop off around every 1-10 shots fired, enough drop off that ball to ball collision in the barrel occurs causing a barrel break. I don't know how to calculate/predict how much air would need to be drawn away from the main valve (in psi) before drop off would occur and barrel breaks would in turn occur.

As an example my setup using a standard RT/Emag on/off pin would need say 65 psi to trip the sear. My Tank reg is set to 800 psi and my muzzle velocity is around 280 fps.

I think the internal of the frame are "stealing" enough air to cause this. How do I calculate/predict how much air would need to be "stolen" from the main valve to cause such a large amount of drop off?

Keep it simple use a barrel thats 2 inchs shorter ?
And i think all markers break paint in the barrel.

not just a pue mag or this or that kind of marker.


I own all sorts of markers and if i get breaks in the crown area of the barrel
then i just use a shorter barrel,

Alot of tip breaks are down to poor porting of barrels ,
ie they where drilled after the barrel was honed,

When ever you drill a tube with a drill you will allways get a projection in the barrel.
as a drill allways leaves a dimple on its back side.

The only way to port a barrel is with a mill.
or if you have to use a piller drill.

your have to make a soild metal tube . this you put inside your barrel < it has to be a good fit>

then drill your porting . the matel tube stops the drill from making dimples in side the barrel.

The lesson is buy a better barrel,

not one from china.

also match your air release to the length of the barrel .
so you stop any ball bounce at the control tip or crown.

[snoopay700]

Well over a month later i finally came through cause whenever i was home i kept forgetting. I took 8 pictures because i couldn't take head on shots cause the flash made it so you couldn't see anything, and so i took 5 pictures so you could see everything and how far my trigger travels on the MSV-2. I hope this helps, and i also tried to take a picture to show how far away from the sear the ram is, this might be the most important part of the set up.






Edit: If these are too big let me know and i'll resize them.

[longi]

also match your air release to the length of the barrel .
so you stop any ball bounce at the control tip or crown.

How do I go about matching the correct amount of air for the length of the barrel? Do you mean 280 fps for say a 16 inch barrel? The standard velocity? I'm not sure I understand, well I think I do, but I'm not sure how I go about doing it.

Snoopay700...Looks to me like the distance between the MPA-3 and the sear is roughly the same as mine. I ground the ram down so it sits flush with the guide hole of the actuator. I'm not sure I can get it any further away without it completely missing the sear! I have made some further adjustments to my frame but I haven't as yet put any paint through the gun for a while. I just haven't had the time.

[snoopay700]

Snoopay700...Looks to me like the distance between the MPA-3 and the sear is roughly the same as mine. I ground the ram down so it sits flush with the guide hole of the actuator. I'm not sure I can get it any further away without it completely missing the sear! I have made some further adjustments to my frame but I haven't as yet put any paint through the gun for a while. I just haven't had the time.

Hmm, then i don't know, i've used an 11 inch crown point and it was fine, but that also has about the last 2 or 3 inches of the barrel not quite all there as it tapers away, so that could be why, i haven't really tried with a barrel that's that long that has no porting or anything.

[longi]

I don't think I've ever tried a straight ported barrel with a Pneumag setup. My Freak system has spiral porting and barrel breaks are worringly common. Having said that I've just bought an Ego SL barrel which is straight ported I haven't tried it yet though. Hmm.....

[outreach]

um i have this problem too and its always at the very tip of the barrel i have an egoframed micro mag with x valve and lvl x, i use a 16" ul and ive cahanged a rediculous amount of settings ive turned the dwell all the way up and all the way down to were it no longer fires tuned the x valve like 400 times, i dont usually have the problem untill i start filling lanes at like 18 bps, yes we play uncapped lol in semi and we have done it over the crono lol ill start laying paint and and ill get a break and a gap in the stream then it will like corect itself im not sure what the cause is could it possibly be the porting in the barrel? because its so far down the barrel that it barely affects accuracy after a break if at all. and i know my mag is fully capable of doing way faster bps then what ive been pushing it to on the field so whats the dealio. i can probly get a vid if i dont already have one just give me a bit to get my scubas filled as im extremely broke lol

[one_quick_ta]

I too have run into this problem... im fairly sure if not positive that it is a ball on ball collision. mainly because ive seen it out of the barrel... i shoot a 10in oldschool aluminum dye on occasion and i have noticed it happen when my rof jumps up... but i think the cause is short stroking not a drop in pressure. it seems like no matter what i do the pressure taken from the tank to run the lpr does not cut it consistantly causing a lack of pressure in the ram resulting in a short stroke... just my observation

[chafnerjr]

I'm with you all on this one. I've certainly short stroked mine in a few heated moments. The breaks were ball on ball. For the eight or so full days I played my pneumag last season I broke paint only twice in the barrel, not that I'm using brittle paint or anything. I'm using a 14" DW Fibur on a pneumag (installed by cyberave). Some quick tuning of the magnets, LPR and my fingers cleared everything up.