Ok this could be just the "no sleep and its 7 am" talking but here we go.
First off, I know very little about physics, friction, pressures, etc....and it probably shows. Also I really wish I had an updated diagram of the insides of one of todays xvalves instead of this old RT with banjo bolt. I don't know if I got the understandings of how the mag works right, so this may be way off.
With that in mind!
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From what I understand the resistance with the trigger pull is the on/off pin. Now if I'm understanding this right, even with the ULT, there is still a force being exerted downward. There is still gas pushing on the top of the on/off pin in order to reset it and close off the airway. I have marked this with a red arrow.
So why not eliminate the gas pushing down on the on/off
Here is what I'm thinking.
First off there is a hole through the entire valve. Now air comes through the middle from the regulator (red arrow). When the trigger is at rest, the on/off pin is open, letting air pass through due to the much smaller diameter of on/off pin (air passes on either side of it), just like a normal on/off.The on/off pen is threaded on the bottom and screws into the sear, this is what will force the airway to close.
When the trigger is pulled the back end of the sear lifts up, pushing the on/off pin upwards. When this happens the larger diameter area on the pin is moved up and blocks the airway. And of course the bolt is released at the same time causing the marker to cycle. When the bolt returns to its starting position it pushes on the sear like normal and locks back into place, causing the on/off pin to return to its downward starting point.
After thinking about all that, I rememberd that you cannot get the valve out of the body if there is an on/off pin through the entire thing. So thats why I made it thread into the sear. The green thing at the top is just a plug (much like a matrix backplug). Unscrew the plug and you have access to the on/off pin at the top (by the way the plug is hollow on the inside, like a soda bottle cap, so the on/off pin has room to move upwards inside it). I have the top of the on/off pin reverse threaded so that you are able to unscrew it from the sear by use of a tool...something like a cocker rod. Just screw on the tool, pull upwards and the pin comes out, and your able to remove the valve from the marker.
Purple things are orings.
tell me what you think? It's a really dumb idea right? I just started thinking of this when I was wondering how a solenoid valve would work out in a mag and where to put it. I guess you could wire it up for a solenoid with a piston to control it, if they make them that small and shape.
First off, I know very little about physics, friction, pressures, etc....and it probably shows. Also I really wish I had an updated diagram of the insides of one of todays xvalves instead of this old RT with banjo bolt. I don't know if I got the understandings of how the mag works right, so this may be way off.
With that in mind!
--------
From what I understand the resistance with the trigger pull is the on/off pin. Now if I'm understanding this right, even with the ULT, there is still a force being exerted downward. There is still gas pushing on the top of the on/off pin in order to reset it and close off the airway. I have marked this with a red arrow.
So why not eliminate the gas pushing down on the on/off
Here is what I'm thinking.
First off there is a hole through the entire valve. Now air comes through the middle from the regulator (red arrow). When the trigger is at rest, the on/off pin is open, letting air pass through due to the much smaller diameter of on/off pin (air passes on either side of it), just like a normal on/off.The on/off pen is threaded on the bottom and screws into the sear, this is what will force the airway to close.
When the trigger is pulled the back end of the sear lifts up, pushing the on/off pin upwards. When this happens the larger diameter area on the pin is moved up and blocks the airway. And of course the bolt is released at the same time causing the marker to cycle. When the bolt returns to its starting position it pushes on the sear like normal and locks back into place, causing the on/off pin to return to its downward starting point.
After thinking about all that, I rememberd that you cannot get the valve out of the body if there is an on/off pin through the entire thing. So thats why I made it thread into the sear. The green thing at the top is just a plug (much like a matrix backplug). Unscrew the plug and you have access to the on/off pin at the top (by the way the plug is hollow on the inside, like a soda bottle cap, so the on/off pin has room to move upwards inside it). I have the top of the on/off pin reverse threaded so that you are able to unscrew it from the sear by use of a tool...something like a cocker rod. Just screw on the tool, pull upwards and the pin comes out, and your able to remove the valve from the marker.
Purple things are orings.
tell me what you think? It's a really dumb idea right? I just started thinking of this when I was wondering how a solenoid valve would work out in a mag and where to put it. I guess you could wire it up for a solenoid with a piston to control it, if they make them that small and shape.
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