Electronic Grip Thoughts...

[brianlojeck]

(NOTE: this thread does not intend to infringe on the rights of WDP, Smart Parts, or the guys who actually invented the paintball E-grip. I am not going into production in any way, shape, or form, and am just kicking around ideas...)

Using a single battery, a micro-switch, and a solenoid, shouldn't I be able to make a walkable e-grip with no eyes, no lag waiting for the board to survey the switch, and no worries about cheating? combine with a lvlx, and you should have a decent sear-dropper, no?

maybe add a capacitor to hold the solenoid extended for longer then the switch is closed?

am I nuts, or am I a genious?

[Aleis]

only thing is tripping the microswitch "ons" power to the solenoid not "offs" the power, so you'd have a serius multi shot problem if you held the trigger in as teh solenoid would hold the sear down for as long as you held down the trigger,

you could get it so teh switch works in reverse i guess bu then you'd be eating your battery as it would conatantly be running power through teh circuit, whenever you weren't holding in the trigger

Or you go and slap pro team products and get them to let Deadly Wind make their pnuematic assist trigger.

[GA Devil]

thats what the hyperframe was, the boyaa was, and the DevilMAG is

[brianlojeck]

only thing is tripping the microswitch "ons" power to the solenoid not "offs" the power, so you'd have a serius multi shot problem if you held the trigger in as teh solenoid would hold the sear down for as long as you held down the trigger,

multi-shot? because of the Reactive trigger? You might be right... so I'll have to include a ULT into my costs...

you could get it so teh switch works in reverse i guess bu then you'd be eating your battery as it would conatantly be running power through teh circuit, whenever you weren't holding in the trigger

I'm not sure I see what you mean here...

Or you go and slap pro team products and get them to let Deadly Wind make their pnuematic assist trigger.

too expensive, but very cool... I'm trying to figure out something very cheap, and cheat-proof...

[brianlojeck]

thats what the hyperframe was, the boyaa was, and the DevilMAG is

??? I checked your devilmag thread, and it looks like it's a lot more complicated then I'm designing here... the devilmag appears to have firing modes, eyes, and settings, which means a board with some intelligence to it. I'm looking at a simple "doorbell" circuit to do away with all that intellect. The lvlX mag is a good enough gun that I don't see the need to fussy it up with all that stuff, it really just needs a sear-dropper, and not having a board makes it cheat-proof...

since you appear to have experience with this stuff though, I'd appreciate any advice you can give...

[wolfwood_is_here]

you could get it so teh switch works in reverse i guess bu then you'd be eating your battery as it would conatantly be running power through teh circuit, whenever you weren't holding in the trigger.

What he was saying here was that you would break a circuit to cause the sear to trip, instead of making a circuit to trip the sear. That is why the batts would be drained, unless you could set it up to be extremely low voltage.

As far as what you are thinking, with this design you would have problems with voltage. You may need some sort of board in order to change the voltage to be efficient and to accomodate what each component needs. Put too much through something, you could fry it. Too little and nothing happens. It wouldn't have to be "smart", it could basically act like an autocockers LP for your electronics.

If you are deadfast determined on your idea, then go for it!

Have you actually tried to make the system outside of a marker to see if you can even get the parts you have listed to work? I would suggest doing that, and then working to see what it takes just to make the system work by itself. By that point in time, you will have a much better idea about what your system can or cannot handle.

This, and you will also have more personal experience with your system. Sometimes people need to just try stuff before they start asking other people to critique it, and I think you could get it to work, it just may take a lot of tweaking and design changes.

Hope this helps!

[noahyay]

let me sum this up, ive tried it

it wont work with low voltage (aka 9v)
you will need a large battery.

second, u'll need a soleniod that will fit, these are hard to find

there wont be a reaction problem
you will need a ult if you want it to work

also, y not just put eyes in the circut so that if the beam is broken, it will fire, that wont require any complex system.

it could work, but it'd save time and money to buy a devil mag

[hitech]

I'm looking at a simple "doorbell" circuit to do away with all that intellect...

Sure, you could do that. The problems it would have would stem from the switch not being held closed long enough or being held closed too long. Too short and it doesn't cycle properly. Too long and it kills the battery/solenoid. The circuit board basically insures the proper firing sequence and timing. You would loose all that. You would basically get a short and light trigger that is prone to all the problems of the stock trigger, but to a greater extent because of the short/light throw of the trigger (it would probably not cycle properly (shortstroke) on every shot at higher rof).

But you could make it fire...

[Scott Hudnall]

so who's got a list of radio shack parts and a simple board diagram that could accomplish this?

hey, nobody wants to infringe upon any patents.....but if someone just wants a sear tripping board that does away with the frills, why not put the info out there?

[Lurker27]

You assuem the info isn't out there. I assure you that it is.

[Scott Hudnall]

post a link or two???

[temps]

post a link or two???

Here --

Jonies Mag useing a hyperframe noid and Morlock

The Electritions Mag useing a TM solinoid valve, Morlock, and not sure what ram

Trains are Bad also did a similar conversion as The Electrition with a Y-frame.. All the information on makeing your own can be found in those threads.. or similar threads over on The Workshop forum.


The truth is out there..

[moppedclean]

You could technically make a semi-working circuit with just a 9v battery, a switch(trigger), and a rather large capacitor, but it is not practical. Like stated earlier, if you hold the switch down too long you will get double fires. Anything over 10 ms in guns like spyders and you will get a double shot. In electro-pnuematic markers, you will get horrible velocity inconsistency with that setup.
But there are alternatives that are cheaper than you might think. There are quite a few different options for fabricating a board. You could make an analog circuit using a 555 timing chip that would be able to provide precise timing. You could use some sort of starter kit that gets you introduced with microcontrollers such as the Basic Stamp. And once you get going with things, you could start to program microcontrollers such as a PIC. The internet has everything that you could ever need to know to get going with this stuff.
Once you learn how to do this, you can easily make a board under ten dollars with an amount of features that is only limited by your imagination. Eye system components can be easily had for under a dollar and are relatively simple to be incorporated with any board, whether it be a simple timing circuit, or a microcontroller.
Here's a link if you want to check out my first board I made.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=815460

[93civiccpe]

^^ Very good information. If you understand what you are doing, and can think logically, then programming a chip/designing a board is simple. For all of you who would rather take a simple path, there is a very easy way to convert a spyder (or clone) e-trigger to work with an automag with ULT. I've seen some ways posted on here but I believe I have a way that requires much less milling and works fine.

[RazorMonkey]

Indeed... It takes less than 30 lines of code to program Basic Stamp to shoot in semi. Add in a boot sequence and a safety, and you should still be under 100 lines... Very simple, and VERY cheap