E/X-Mag Microcontroller Programming (Atmel AT90S2313)

[LorneCash]

I didnt see it in the list of features - Is there a fire hold off adjustment?

I'm not sure what you're talking about, apparently i missed the initial question. Maybe the DLAY setting at the top of Page 12?

where do i buy a programmer and this software, lorne cash hasnt answered me email or pm

My appologies, somehow I missed your email. I replied now.

[11 Bravo]

[QUOTE=LorneCash]I'm not sure what you're talking about, apparently i missed the initial question. Maybe the DLAY setting at the top of Page 12?


The amount of time before it will react to a trigger pull. Is this adjustable?

[LorneCash]

The amount of time before it will react to a trigger pull. Is this adjustable?

It has an ROF setting and Shot buffer so what else do you mean? If you're not talking about that then I guess no. Why/How would you use a feature like what you're describing?

[GoblinGreen]

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=189558

heres the Euro Xmag wiring pics. Id rather post them, seeing there aint no other Euro Xmag pics on this Forum and rather safe then sorry

[mpsd]

Can anyone answer that, please?

Sorry for the stupid question but I never saw an X-Mag live, only in pictures. There are none of them here in Brazil.
My question is: If I want to upgrade my e-Mag with the original board (upgraded with LornCash's software) with an Ace, what do I need? I mean, is there another board and wires I would have to buy or can I just buy the laser eyes from Tag Sportz and connect them directly to the e-Mag board, as you show on your manual? I saw that they charge only US$ 35,00 for the eyes set... Don't know if that's all I need. (Of course I would also have to do some milling on my Mag's body to install the eyes. The question is for the hardware, ok?)

Thanks a lot, guys!

Best regards,

Mendel.

[BigEvil]

Mendel,

The Xmag Ace is a seperate board. It sits at the top of the grip frame, kinda above and in front of the trigger. the eye element is sits up higher, and goes up into the main body through a hole milled at the bottom of the breech.

I know some emag users have installed the ACE to their guns, but it requires milling to the body, rail, and depending on what grip frame you have, that too.

AGD ran out of spare ACE boards about a year ago and they are SUPER hard to find. Anyone who has a spare is not usually willing to part with it.

[Majinebz]

I have my emag installed with an ace board. It is the one that you see in the videos for the beta testing of the xmod soft. You can do two things to install it.
1.
Heres what you need . Buy a xmag ACE board. Get a Xmag Lower/frame (its already milled for the eye board) Mill your Emag rail for the ACE and on/off switch. Drill the eye hole in the bottom of your breech. Total cost would be around probably 500 or more if you shop good.

Then you have to know how to wire it to the emag board. Its not hard, but you can screw things up.

2. Its easier to find a emag with it already installed or just buy an Xmag. I bought that emag with everything already installed on it and I basically paid the price of a xmag. Nice thing about it is, its lighter then an xmag.

There is a xmag on ebay now. Its at 600.00 I think. Later, EBZ

Can anyone answer that, please?

Sorry for the stupid question but I never saw an X-Mag live, only in pictures. There are none of them here in Brazil.
My question is: If I want to upgrade my e-Mag with the original board (upgraded with LornCash's software) with an Ace, what do I need? I mean, is there another board and wires I would have to buy or can I just buy the laser eyes from Tag Sportz and connect them directly to the e-Mag board, as you show on your manual? I saw that they charge only US$ 35,00 for the eyes set... Don't know if that's all I need. (Of course I would also have to do some milling on my Mag's body to install the eyes. The question is for the hardware, ok?)

Thanks a lot, guys!

Best regards,

Mendel.

[11 Bravo]

It has an ROF setting and Shot buffer so what else do you mean? If you're not talking about that then I guess no. Why/How would you use a feature like what you're describing?

You would use this feature because with say the auto response feature if you walk the trigger at a high rof you can outrun your gun or the sear or whatever.

Example- when I set up the Morlock board in my Hyperframe it fired great in semi, but when I put it in AR and walked it, it would chuff and sometimes stick. I finally got the dwell and fire hold off (solenoid hold off) set correctly and it works perfectly now - well above 20 bps.

But maybe the shot buffering will cover this?

[LorneCash]

You would use this feature because with say the auto response feature if you walk the trigger at a high rof you can outrun your gun or the sear or whatever.

Example- when I set up the Morlock board in my Hyperframe it fired great in semi, but when I put it in AR and walked it, it would chuff and sometimes stick. I finally got the dwell and fire hold off (solenoid hold off) set correctly and it works perfectly now - well above 20 bps.

But maybe the shot buffering will cover this?

I don't think such a problem exists on my software. If the ROF is set too high for the input pressure then the gun won't always fire but I'm not sure you would say it chuffs, and it certainly doesn't stick. In my software the only reason it would stick is if you had the dwell so high that the solenoid didn't have time to release before the next shot. Tell you what as soon as you get your programmer i nominate you to test this problem personally. You can let me know if whatever it is that you're talking about is an issue, cuz i'm still not 100% sure i understand what you're describing.

[11 Bravo]

I'll be glad to look into it - just get me the programmer.

I have a fealing that this has already come up with the software, but no one has realized it.

This is from the tech forum:

Majinebz
Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 69

"But when I have a cheetah boarded halo and my emag still makes that damn cuff noise like its hitting a ball I get pissed."
(end)


He is thinking that its because the lvl10 isnt fast enough. Thats not so. I think if he could adjust the noid hold off the problem would go away.

I experienced the same thing with my morlock and lvl10. I fine tuned the dwell and fire holdoff together and the problem was solved.


But then this may be all about nothing. I'll just wait and see.


Note: Can you or anyone that has the program put the marker on Auto response at 20 bps and walk the trigger without getting the chuffing? If so - we dont have a problem.

[athomas]

He is thinking that its because the lvl10 isnt fast enough. Thats not so. I think if he could adjust the noid hold off the problem would go away.

I experienced the same thing with my morlock and lvl10. I fine tuned the dwell and fire holdoff together and the problem was solved.

I agree. If the holdoff value is not high enough, the marker will attempt to fire again before the chamber is fully recharged, resulting in a chuff. If the recharge rate data graphs were showing (can't see them), we would have a pretty good idea how much hold off time to put on the solenoid. You need to hold the solenoid "on" with enough dwell time to activate the solenoid and allow the bolt to complete its cycle. Then you need enough holdoff time to allow the valve to completely recharge before you activate the solenoid again.

[LorneCash]

I agree. If the holdoff value is not high enough, the marker will attempt to fire again before the chamber is fully recharged, resulting in a chuff. If the recharge rate data graphs were showing (can't see them), we would have a pretty good idea how much hold off time to put on the solenoid. You need to hold the solenoid "on" with enough dwell time to activate the solenoid and allow the bolt to complete its cycle. Then you need enough holdoff time to allow the valve to completely recharge before you activate the solenoid again.

I guess I'm not sure. I don't thinks so but if it is I'm sure you can solve it by adjusting a few things in the menus. I'll actually havn't shot paint with my software yet and only about 2000 psi worth of air. I've been kinda broke since i graduated. Until the cash starts flowing a little better i'm relying on my beta testers. I'll make sure they read this thread and see if they want to run a few tests.

[mpsd]

I have my emag installed with an ace board. It is the one that you see in the videos for the beta testing of the xmod soft. You can do two things to install it.
1.
Heres what you need . Buy a xmag ACE board. Get a Xmag Lower/frame (its already milled for the eye board) Mill your Emag rail for the ACE and on/off switch. Drill the eye hole in the bottom of your breech. Total cost would be around probably 500 or more if you shop good.

Then you have to know how to wire it to the emag board. Its not hard, but you can screw things up.

2. Its easier to find a emag with it already installed or just buy an Xmag. I bought that emag with everything already installed on it and I basically paid the price of a xmag. Nice thing about it is, its lighter then an xmag.

There is a xmag on ebay now. Its at 600.00 I think. Later, EBZ

Thanks Majinez and Big Evil. I thought it would be easier and cheaper to get done...
I'll probably stick with my e-Mag and Level 10... It will surelly keep up good enough
Anyway, thanks for the input.

Regards,

Mendel.

[Naash]

I just bought an emag and I'm really interested with your software.

Could you tell me more about your "millenium" mode ? I'm playing in France.

Millenium rules are :
- ramping when you reach 8 bps
- ramping cap at 15 bps
- no extraball when you stop pulling the trigger

I sent you an email.

[UTDragun]

is there anyway I could use a different soleniod and ult, kinda like dmags and use this software?