Mechanical help on my 66 mustang 289

[paintman1234]

First off, it is a 1966 Ford Mustang Convertible GT, with a 289 V8. it is automatic and everything is stock under the hood. It has been sitting for awhile and will start fairly consistently but the idle is higher then it probably should be. It stalls sometimes when put in gear and misfires occasionally on the road. Today I just put a new distributor cap rotor and plugs in it. The plugs were autolite platinum tipped. There was probably 2 gallons of old gas in the tank and i added 3 gallons of premium and a little lead additive about 5 miles ago.

Now the questions:
1. The plugs came gapped at around .045, but the man at autozone recomemmnded a .035 gap. Will that make a difference and if it will how do i reduce the gap?

2. Do I need to add a lead additive to the gas to make the old engine run right?

3. Would the firing order or a bad connection from the plug wires to the cap cause the problems?


Its been awhile since my last automags post but thought this would be the perfect place to get it answered. Im looking at you Rob.

[ManInBlack]

1. The plugs came gapped at around .045, but the man at autozone recomemmnded a .035 gap. Will that make a difference and if it will how do i reduce the gap?

You can get a plug gap measure thing for just a couple of bucks and just kinda tap them to the right size? Do them one at a time so you don't get your wire mixed up.

2. Do I need to add a lead additive to the gas to make the old engine run right?

Couldn't hurt to try. My wife's uncle has a '71 vette that he adds lead to once in a while. Seems to run fine.

3. Would the firing order or a bad connection from the plug wires to the cap cause the problems?

If the firing order were out it would be really obvious. Bad plug wires can cause this sort of problem. I had a car run fine most of the time but buck a lot when wet, bad plugs and wires.

[Looper]

The larger the gap the bigger the coil that is needed to jump the gap. If you have the original coil and ignition system in that stang you'll need a smaller gap.

Leaded gas was need for valve seats but you be the judge http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/seats.htm

You've got a lot of things working against you... First I would get rid of the old gas and change your fuel filter. Then you want to have your points gap, in the distributor, checked stock 289 with 2bl is .034 or just change the points out for a "Pentronix" under the cap ignition. I would also find somebody with a timing light to check the timing.

There will be an idle screw on the carb to set the idle but you may want to check your auto choke and make sure that is working properly. Does it always idle high or only when it's cold?

Another good thing to pick up, if you really want to do this yourself, is the shop manual for your year Mustang. http://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Falcon...4276715&sr=8-2

Try these guys... they will know everything about Mustangs...

http://lists.twistedpair.ca/mailman/listinfo.cgi/classic-mustangs

Oh, and my other hobby


Good luck

[paintman1234]

thankas and keep the ideas coming, i also installed a fuel filer today so that should be good.

anybody know of a digram that will show the wires to and from the distributor cap and the cylinders?

[skife]

thankas and keep the ideas coming, i also installed a fuel filer today so that should be good.

anybody know of a digram that will show the wires to and from the distributor cap and the cylinders?

where in michigan are you? i might be able to help.


how long has it been sitting?

it might be time for a carburetor rebuild.
as others have said, adjust the points, change ALL the fluids in the car and all the filters.

a friend of mine had a '67 289 with an edelbrock carb and aluminum intake and the thing ripped.

[mustangii]

I agree with the others. One added thing though. If all else fails there is a pickup sock in the tank that can become pluged over time.

edm

[Looper]

Windsor (289, 302, 5.0, 5.0HO, 351) Firing Orders

289 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
302 (Pre-82) 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
5.0 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
5.0 HO 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
5.0 Truck 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
351 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8

Cylinder numbering

The table below covers the positions and numbering for all cylinders on a windsor motor. Generally, it can be summarised as follows: When looking into the engine bay the number one cylinder should be on your left hand side (left bank) at the front of the engine. The number eight cylinder is on the rear right (right bank) up against the firewall.
Firewall
4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5
Front bumper

[Big'n slo]

I agree with Looper, get the pentronix


And now a shameless pic parade

My 66

[Lohman446]

I would lean towards the carb being gummed up with old fuel and simply needing a good cleaning. Assuming it runs and only misses sometimes its not crossed plug wires (which would cause a consistant miss).

[Coralis]

A bad set of plug wires can cause that problem as well

[Lohman446]

Wait a minute.. you put in platinum tipped plugs from Autozone?

I have seen more problems caused by Bosch platinum plugs than any other plug type. Go buy normal plugs for it, preferabbly Autolite (no, its not name preference, put Autolites in Ford, Delcos in GM, Champion in Chrysler, and NGK in everything else. The only thing to use Bosch for is VW).

[kruger]

Also, just for your reference, but the lead was used to lube up the valves in the heads. It really depends on how long the car was sitting, but the cure is to replace the valve guides in the head and you can burn unleaded gas. If it has been driven in the last five years or so, the that has already been done. And, I would recommend rebuilding the carburetor. Its not that hard to do. Just clean everything and replace the parts that come in the kit. Is this the spread bore carb? If so, you will love it. Mileage, and kick when you need it.

[Lohman446]

The funny thing about changing valve guides, I have never ever heard it referenced except online. It came up in conversation with one customer who read it on line, I asked eight different technicians from various shops about it, as well as two old car collectors, and they had never done it.

[mustangii]

Okay tetraethyl lead was in gas to regulate the octane of the fuel, side benifit was it lubed the valve seats. The valves rotate on the seats when the vehicle is driven to keep the carban diposits clean off. later model vehiles either have induction hardened seats in cast iron heads or steel insert seats in aluminum heads. The prblem that arose after lead was phased out was exhaust valve recestion, the seat would wear away and the valve would sink into the head. how fast this happens depends on what grade of cast iron the heafds are made of. mid 50s to mid 60s cast iron had a higher nickel content mkeing the iron harder, the only fix is new later model heads, new hp aftermaket heads or the cheapest route. Haveing hardend seats install in your heads.
edm

[snoopay700]

Oh, and my other hobby


Good luck

Your other hobby is car porn? I mean that looks like a pretty naked car to me [/bad joke]