Need help from AO auto mechanics

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  • skife
    Unregistered User
    • Feb 2003
    • 2769

    #16
    Originally posted by cdacda13
    As for replacing the rings, you going to have to remove the valve train, then the cylinder head (along with that the exhaust manifold, which is a pain due to rusting), drop the oil pan (that's if it isn't totally blocked in by the crossmember), then remove the crank shaft, then hammer the connecting rods and pistons out(Make sure you don't scar the cylinder walls). Then, replace the rings (remember to stagger the opening). Then a use a ring compressor and hammer the connecting rods and pistons back in. Reinstall everything with new gaskets.
    This is all assuming that the cylinder walls are in good shape and don't need to be honed or bored out.

    Hope that helps.

    i would really like to see someone do rings with the block still in the car.




    [21:00] < FunkTehChillinMunky > I've got a Warped Sportz Dark Talon

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    • Lohman446
      Useful posts: 7
      • Jun 2003
      • 9315

      #17
      Originally posted by skife
      i would really like to see someone do rings with the block still in the car.
      :P What kind of car? +
      "Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. Its not" - Dr Suess

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      • Steelrat
        I meant to...uh, nevermind
        • May 2003
        • 5375

        #18
        I'm actually going to do a compression test, and hope its the valve seals. Even with restore and 10w40, it's still burining plenty of oil From what I've read, compression tests are not hard to do, I just need to figure out how to disable the injectors.


        A site for gay and alternative lifestyles: www.zakvetter.com

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        • punkncat
          One foot less
          • Feb 2003
          • 5841

          #19
          Originally posted by Steelrat
          I'm actually going to do a compression test, and hope its the valve seals. Even with restore and 10w40, it's still burining plenty of oil From what I've read, compression tests are not hard to do, I just need to figure out how to disable the injectors.

          Each of the injectors have a plug on them. You should also have something along the lines of an ECM fuse or relay, as well as a fuel pump relay that could be pulled to stop fuel delivery.

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          • skife
            Unregistered User
            • Feb 2003
            • 2769

            #20
            Originally posted by Lohman446
            :P What kind of car? +
            a FWD car.

            okay, its do-able, but not easy.

            i've seen main bearings done without taking the engine out.




            [21:00] < FunkTehChillinMunky > I've got a Warped Sportz Dark Talon

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            • Lohman446
              Useful posts: 7
              • Jun 2003
              • 9315

              #21
              Originally posted by skife
              a FWD car.

              okay, its do-able, but not easy.

              i've seen main bearings done without taking the engine out.

              Its far easier with side by side hoists. I'd hate to think of trying it on even a single, or worse yet on the ground
              "Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. Its not" - Dr Suess

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              • BigEvil
                www.BigEvilOnline.com

                • Feb 2005
                • 9333

                #22
                Originally posted by Lohman446
                Until it gets cold out run 20W50 oil

                And just for kicks, replace the PCV valve (and make sure the tube going to it is not collapsed / cracked) - its cheap and stands a chance of helping.

                ^^^
                Do what Lohman says. Also, if you can find 20w50 in Catrol Syntech, GET IT. I have seen that stuff do WONDERS in 4 cyl cars with bad rings and valve seals. If you can get Slick50, put a quart of that stuff in to. I used to use that once or twice a year on all of my cars.

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