Car Nuts- I need help!!!!!

[slateman]

Originally posted by seekandestroy
something to think about i only paid 5,000 for a 79 vette in extremley good condition

How old are you and how much was insurance?

I'm 19, I have this feeling that insurance would be more thatn the car.

tazman: When I start the car alot of blue smoke comes out. Once it warms up, the smoke goes away.

[boggerman]

First off, alcohol burns colder than gasoline. However I am not sure what the effects of alcohol would be on your old, tired engine. One bottle to a tank full of gas probably would not hurt anything(HEET gasline antifreeze is mostly alcohol). The suggestion to leave your car running when you get to the emissions check is not a bad idea, most often leaking valve guides will cause the puff of smoke when you first start your car, by leaving it running you may keep the oil from accumulating on the valve. Good luck.

[tazman]

If alot of blue smoke is coming out when you first start the car try a heavier grade of oil (15w40) or try synthic oil. also Check your spark plugs if they are oil fouled change them the day before you go to your smog test.

It sounds like the valve giudes and seals are gone, as for magic potions that will help you pass, I don't know of anythat help with passing the smog test.(All they ever do is lighten you wallet).

I hope this helps you out, and go luck, Let me know how you make out.

[bofh]

OK, little trick I use to get my twenty year old Jag thru emissons. (I burn about a quart of oil every 500 miles)

Drop about two gallons of denatured Alchol in the gas tank. (A hardware store will have in gallon cans.)Get a heavy oil in the car. I use 20w50. Stop by your local pepboys and look for some additive like "Motor Honey" It's a oil thickening agent. Use it. Drain it out after the test. Empty the gas tank if you can, or burn a lot of fuel, you don't want the alchol to be in the fuel lines long.

Take a nice long, hard drive before you get to the station, and try to go when you won't be in line for long.

That's what normally works for me, and my engine is pushing 310k miles...

On the other hand, and fairly nice used car doesn't cost that much... 5 Large would buy a really, really nice car, 2g would do pretty good, that's what my average car price has been and normally keep them about three years...

[XR4]

DON'T USE SYNTHETIC OIL

I know what I'm talking about, I'm a mechanical engineering student (that's the degree I need to design cars) and I've been all around cars my whole life.

First don't use synthetic oil. Yes, it is god's gift to lubricants and can handle higher temperatures than conventional oils, but it can find leaks better than conventional oils. Synthetic oil doesn't burn any cleaner than conventional, but you may end up burning more of it. Use a heavier grade of oil, at least 15W50. Don't get too hung up on the exact number, just make sure its high (thick.) Without changing your oil you can buy stuff to make it thicker. I think its called 'Motor Honey.' Other oil additives won't help. Oil additives supposedly improve lubrication. You don't have a lubrication problem, and who knows what that stuff will do in the emissions test when it leaks into the combustion chamber and burns (not what it was designed for.)

Don't put any alcohol in your fuel. Lots of reasons. (yes I know gas already has alcohol in it, I mean the stupid "add this potion" to your fuel crap)

Other fuel additives, I remember seeing some bottle at the local K-mart that promised you'd pass your emissions test. I thought that was funny because here in Michigan we don't have one. Many people have told me the only fuel injector cleaner type product that works is Techron. I can't remember who makes it, but its in a black bottle with blue and red stripes with 'Techron' in big letters. Even if it does help, I don't know if it'll make the difference.

Go to the emissions test with the car through warmed up. Catalytic Converters are your friend for passing an emissions test. They work by being warm. If you show up cold your car should fail regardless of the oil leak. By warm I mean go drive it for half an hour, don't just let it idle for a few minutes. Of all the things I've mentioned, this is the most important.

Spark Plugs, if they're old changing them may help. You can do it yourself and its cheap. Just regular spark plugs are fine, the fancy ones won't help you.

High grade gasoline, maybe it'll help, but not much. FYI Premium Amoco has the sulfur removed for better emissions. Sulfur in gasoline makes lots of nasty emissions, but no American emissions test looks for them.

Replacing the Oxygen Sensor might help. If you're really burning a lot of oil the old one may be coated. The O2 sensor sits in the exhaust pipe and measures oxygen to see if the computer is sending the righ amount of fuel. Changing it can be difficult if its old and well rusted to the exhaust, the part is about $40. If you've got other problems that point to a bad O2 sensor like a check engine light, noticably poor gas mileage, or rough running when warm then you may want to think about it.

When I was 17 I looked at an old RX-7. Not too expensive, but the insurance was more than the car after less than 2 years. Bought a Merkur XR4Ti a few months later and never looked back.

Later,
XR

[tazman]

First off syntetic oil doesn't burnt I know this because It is my job, I have never seen synthetic oil burn. As for leaking the jury is still out for me on this one(I run it in my old caviler and it leaked worse, but when I put it in the wifes caprice that leaked oil about 1 liter every week it is down to leaking about 1 liter ever two to three weeks, I really should fix it but I do that all day long and the last thing I want to do is fix my own junk for free at night). I have seen other vehicles that leak oil and burn oil switch to the synthetic with good results, But it is up to you.

[Zumina]

Try Engine Restore. It reconditions seals and makes a crappy running car run better. I just put some in my 89' Corsica with 198k on it, and it's runs 10x better. Yes, switch to a heavy weight oil and use an additive like STP Oil Treatment or something of the like. But, I would seriously entertain buying a different car. Even if you're down on cash, an acceptable alternative can be found. After all, there's no assurance that your seals are going to last much longer, and before you know it you'll be replacing spark plugs and intake manifold gaskets every 100 miles.