Bowling

[gimp]

Anyone into bowling. We started a little league up within the frat, so I've been going a lot lately. I want to get my own ball. We just use the ones there, and the one ball I like, is the same ball everyone else likes. We end up fighting over it. So I want to get my own ball. Do you guys know what one would cost. I don't need a fancy one. The only thing I'm concerend about is the finger holes really.

[Miscue]

I bowled for years... did money leagues and all that. Last ABC sanctioned average was 200 even. I got $600 worth of bowling equipment stolen, and I stopped bowling after that and got into paintball.

Well, ball choice is really freakin complicated. What style do you have (if any) and do you know what the lane conditions are at the house you'll be bowling at?

[Miscue]

http://www.beachbowlproshop.com/page1.htm

Well, if this is your first ball and you want to start hooking it... you should start off with a urethane ball or a VERY mild cheap reactive - like a Shadow/R if they even exist anymore. If you throw it straight and don't plan on changing that, then you can just get a polyurethane (plastic) ball.

The Scout Urethane in the link above would work out well for a starter ball. Remember that you have to pay for drilling, and possibly a thumb slug (recommended) and finger inserts (recommended) for a finger-tip grip.

Also... most drillers don't know what they are doing. They are bowlers who end up working at a pro-shop and just know how to make holes. There's a lot to drilling a bowling ball. Whoever is working on your ball should seem smart and able to explain very well about how bowling balls work and the nuances of drilling. If he makes fun of other drillers who suck, or talks about how he fixes other people's crap work all the time... that's the guy you want.

You might want to take it to a shop that's not in a bowling alley, where that is all that they do... normally they have to be very good and keep loyal customers to stay in business. However, they often charge a bit more than a bowling alley does, depending. Just check around...

Also, check their prices first before you order one off the net. Normally they throw in drilling for free if you buy from them. Bowling balls off the net come in an unknown condition... typically you'll get a better ball if you buy it from a local shop. I think sometimes they sneak in seconds or something. They can also warranty it for you in the rare case that it is defective. It's generally more polite to buy the ball from the person drilling it. Just ask to see their urethane balls, it doesn't matter too much what brand or whatever... just needs to be urethane.

Now, a urethane ball has a controllable hook (if thrown correctly)... but doesn't have that big nasty curve and snap like the more expensive reactive and proactive balls - which you will not be able to utilize and will hurt your game. Now, they do not curve by themselves. If you do not throw it right, it doesn't matter what ball you use.

Also, don't be macho and go for the heavy bowling ball... that is incredibly retarded and you're gonna suck if you do that. 15 is as high as you should go even if you can handle a 16. There's nothing wrong with going with a 14 either, that's what I use... I can't hook a 15 as well.

DO NOT get it from a sporting goods store.

Another site with more stuff: http://www.bowlingindex.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv

[Collegeboy]

I have been bowling since I was five years old and only have recently stopped for lack of time.

As for what bowling ball to buy. Since you are beginning out I would either look into the Columbia 300 White Dot Range, if you like the house balls then this is the way to go, ( all other companies have there own low level balls, but I am bias towards Columbia 300 ) On the site that Miscue have shown you it is 43.99. But I am sure if you shop around you can get it cheaper. But be warned a good drill (even if the white dot drill will be full finger and straight up) will cost you about 20 dollars. So buying it from the shop where it is to be drilled is always IMO the best option when buying the cheaper balls. If you want to move up Columbia make a good beginning series of balls called the scout. The make a urethane for around 55 dollars, a reactive for around 61, and a particle for around 77. But anything about the basic urethane ball might be too much to start out.

One thing I have learned over the years is that a heavier ball is always better if you can handle it. Now when I mean handle it, I mean can you ball ten games back to back with no rest and not hurting you hands. The reason a heavy ball is better is that it transfers more weight to the pins, and makes for a better strike in the pocket. Now they make some of the expensive balls in 14 that will transfer as much weight as a 16, but for now that doesn't matter, for they are way out of what you need (and probably price range too)

[Will Wood]

I think I'm probably the worlds worst bowler

I still do it though sometimes though. Galatic Bowling is real fun..cheap.. and disco lights, music, and girls. I'll be lucky if I break 75.

Heh cool story last time I went bowling.. was the night before a paintball tourney. The feild owner was there. He said if I could beat him I'd get 10 bucks off per case. Of course he wooped my butt bowling left handed (He's right), but he's cool, still gave 10 bucks off.

[Miscue]

Originally posted by Collegeboy
I have been bowling since I was five years old and only have recently stopped for lack of time.

As for what bowling ball to buy. Since you are beginning out I would either look into the Columbia 300 White Dot Range, if you like the house balls then this is the way to go, ( all other companies have there own low level balls, but I am bias towards Columbia 300 ) On the site that Miscue have shown you it is 43.99. But I am sure if you shop around you can get it cheaper. But be warned a good drill (even if the white dot drill will be full finger and straight up) will cost you about 20 dollars. So buying it from the shop where it is to be drilled is always IMO the best option when buying the cheaper balls. If you want to move up Columbia make a good beginning series of balls called the scout. The make a urethane for around 55 dollars, a reactive for around 61, and a particle for around 77. But anything about the basic urethane ball might be too much to start out.

One thing I have learned over the years is that a heavier ball is always better if you can handle it. Now when I mean handle it, I mean can you ball ten games back to back with no rest and not hurting you hands. The reason a heavy ball is better is that it transfers more weight to the pins, and makes for a better strike in the pocket. Now they make some of the expensive balls in 14 that will transfer as much weight as a 16, but for now that doesn't matter, for they are way out of what you need (and probably price range too)

Hogwash. Entry angle is way more important than weight. Tested by strike robots, there is not a significant advantage between 14s, 15s, and 16s. Being able to physically "handle" the ball without getting tired is bare minimum. The correct ball that you can consistently put a good amount of consistent RPMs on, AND get down the lane is what is important. The weight that you can throw exactly the same way, everytime for a duration = the one you should get.

A White dot is good for a spareball. It's a polyurethane 3-piece pancake, I believe... that has a higher hardness rating on the durometer. Also good to start with if you do not ever plan on hooking the ball.

[Collegeboy]

Originally posted by Miscue


Hogwash. Entry angle is way more important than weight. Tested by strike robots, there is not a significant advantage between 14s, 15s, and 16s. Being able to physically "handle" the ball without getting tired is bare minimum. The correct ball that you can consistently put a good amount of consistent RPMs on, AND get down the lane is what is important. The weight that you can throw exactly the same way, everytime for a duration = the one you should get.

A White dot is good for a spareball. It's a polyurethane 3-piece pancake, I believe... that has a higher hardness rating on the durometer. Also good to start with if you do not ever plan on hooking the ball.

Some people never learn.

Entry angle is important. That is why with a white dot that has an 8 board movement the best place to throw it normally is in between the third and second arrow with a suitcase style hold on the ball. If you get the entry level perfect and you have a light ball it will knock down the pins. But miss the entry point slightly and you will more then likely leave a split for the ball doesn't have the carry through that a 16 pound ball has. The 16 pound ball allows you some room for error. And with the changing conditions of the lanes, room for error is always needed in bowling.

I use a white dot for spare, but for strikes I use one of 7 balls, lane one buzzsaw, Columbia rock star (probably my least favorite for it was the worst one drilled), Columbia extreme chaos (my favorite), icon 300, icon, or wow pearl.

[RRfireblade]

Geez.....

A few simple points.

DO buy from a proshop located in a bowling establishment.

DO NOT buy from a off site retailer.

NO bowling ball moves any number of boards,it's the bowler.

Throw the heaviest ball you can handle,it promotes a more natural arm swing.

Basically, go see your pro shop,tell them your budget and where you would like your game to go.

Any good proshop employee will go out and watch you throw a few balls which is the ONLY way to make a ball recommendation.Be honest about your game and what you expect out of it.And lastly,go down during league night and see what the higher average bowlers are using,that will give you a small insight as to what might be effective at those lanes and typical conditions.Use that info only if your stuck with the final decision.

Jay.

[beam]

Maybe once you get up to the 14 lb. ball it doesn't make any difference, but I do know that a heavier ball will drive through the set, hence giving you more pin action. Lighter balls tend to "bounce" off the pocket and you can leave a lot of standing 5 pins. But like I said, that may not even be an issue with a 14 lb ball.

Anyway, since you are just starting, ball won't matter THAT much. However, learning the fundamentals will. It drives me crazy to go to a bowling alley during league play and see all these stupid-contorted-strained-crazy-etc deliveries. I mean, I saw one guy (he was a big guy) with such a high back swing that he had hit the score monitors before.

Consistency is key.

[Collegeboy]

[RRfireblade]

Originally posted by Collegeboy
The ball will move on its own depending on the amount that you drill your holes away from the pin according to the shape of the block.

Not true,it still must be rolled correctly thus "the bowler", any given ball has only hook potential that may or may not be realized depending on the release.We have a guy in my Monday night league that throws a Duece from the left side and "backs it up" 15-20 boards and it's drilled as a typical right hander.

As far as weight,there is little differance between 14-16.Most higher average bowlers I know,including me ,throw 15lbs max as synthetic lanes combined with reactive balls = to much drive.

And FYI, I carried a 206 average on a sport condition using a 13lb ball(Quantum sage tour)after wrist surgery as that was all I could handle.

Jay.

[Collegeboy]

I can take my icon 300 flatten it out (ie no spin on the ball, throw it straight and it will hook) Once the ball reaches its point of geration (I think that is the word), the balls natural momentum will case it to spin in the way it was drilled. I.E. The ball will naturally curve.

And I keep a 198 average on the worst lanes in the world (we had a pro bowler come down and bowl, he averaged 212 on the circuit, and out of 3 games had a 164 average). But what does that matter. It doesn't. A heavy ball allows for a great chance at getting by with errors. If you can handle a heavier ball, heavier is just about always better.

[shartley]

[RRfireblade]

Originally posted by Collegeboy
And I keep a 198 average on the worst lanes in the world (we had a pro bowler come down and bowl, he averaged 212 on the circuit, and out of 3 games had a 164 average).

Sounds like YOU should go pro.

[SlipknotX556]

My 12 and 11 year old brothers are like bowling freaks, they are at the bowling lanes like 6 days a week. Its alot of money to bowl.