Military Rifle suggestions

[bratch]

Wow thanks for the replies. In my short life I have alwasy had guns around but the were essentially the good ole country boy variety; Winchester pump shotguns and lever action rifles, etc. I have always been into military/tactcal items and have decided to pick up some to have around. Not real sure the point of all that but I'll leave it anyway.

In an ideal world I would love to pick up a .308 and .223 battle rifle and a nice bolt action in either 300 win mag or 308. Who knows I may depending on tax returns and the selling of a couple other items.

Duke: Whats a decent AR15 run to build, how labor intensive is it, and what tools are needed? I'm not needing anything with superb accuracy I don't plan on any type of competition shooting just enjoy having them around.

What should I look for in a decent manufactured AR15? Found some Olympic Arms for around 600 without much looking but not real sure on the quality on what to look for in them.

On the M1 route I have always loved that gun. Might have something to do with an insatiable desire for WWII history as a boy. Would like to pick one up sometime.

I have also found a couple shotguns I wouldn't mind having.

I need to quit playing around online or I will be broke the rest of my life. Should also try to get rid of this thirst for things I really don't need or get to use a whole lot.

edit: Saw some impressive penetration test distances for the 5.56 in a 1-7 rifled barrel.

[Duke of Lawnchair]

bratch,

As far as the mousegun (ar15) goes, I prefer the 20" barreled versions. Just like paintball, it is about personal preference.

I've built a few ar15s on Bushmaster lowers. This was before California's SB23 AW law and the RR'89 additions. During this time, the Rock River Arms lowers weren't in abundance in my neck of the woods. From what I've seen, the RRA lowers are every bit as good as the Bushmaster lowers if not better.

Personally, I'd avoid the Olympic Arms lowers. The ones that I've seen were horrible and were not mil-spec'd annodized. This includes one of their forged lowers that I have sitting in my safe. The magazine well is machinced way-outta whack and won't allow my USGI magazines to drop free.

If you opt for the "prancing pony" (Colt) be aware that most of their preban and all of their postban receivers (perhaps the exception of LE and most definately military receivers) do not have mil-spec diameter trigger pins. This is a whole ball of wax that I won't get into.

My latest upper is built using the following:
1) ar15/m16a4 upper receiver from Armalite
2) bolt carrier assembly from Fulton Armory
3) charging handle from Bushmaster
4) 1-9" twist A2 profiled barrel (postban) from Bushmaster
5) KAC M5 RAS
6) A4 removable carry handle (kept in my range bag)
7) ARMS #40 BUIS and Trijicon 4x26 TA-50 Compact ACOG

This was mainly built as a "pet" project as I didn't have a "tactical" ar15 during the summer.

Other than the appropriation of parts, I used the following to build my uppers:
1) Armorer's wrench PN# RM-001 from Bushmaster
2) Upper receiver action clamp PN# OM-003 from Bushmaster
3) Various punches, 1/16", 3/32", 1/8" & 5/32 for all the little roll pins that are used to put the rifle together and to keep the front pivot pin detent spring down when installing the front pivot pin
4) a torque wrench (using a torque wrench is debatable)

The armorer's TM suggests a barrel nut torque of ~35 to ~80 ft-lbs. However, the kicker is to not over torque NOR undertorque. IF you overtorque you'll notice almost immediately when you 25meter or 50yard/meter zero the rifle as you'll run out of windage in one direction. If you undertorque, well, you'll have handguard wobble and you'll actually see the barrel nut move a tad but will stop due to the gas tube.

What I've found that works is to get the barrel nut tight, then tighten till the NEXT tooth that will allow the gas tube to align with the clover in the upper receiver.

Once that is finished, either take your completed upper assembly WITH bolt/bolt carrier to a gunsmith to have he/she check the headspace or buy a set of "go" "no-go" guages. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do if it doesn't headspace correctly. You could try replacing the barrel sleeve or bolt.

In all honesty, it's not difficult. Building an AR upper is like anything else. If you have the tools and if you've done your homework, it's a walk in the park!

When it comes to parts, it's all about personal preference.

I'm rambling.

Sorry,
Jim

[hostage]

SKSs are pretty cheap or at least use to be.
-Doron

[bratch]

Already have one. It is a nice little rifle.

[abunkerer]

If you want something that it fun to shoot, and could take down a plane try one of these.

50 cal Barrett M82a1

http://www.barrettrifles.com/rifles_82A1.html

also check out the lazzaroni rifles they are the best! the meteor is the highest power rifle load available!

[Dubstar112]

Does the military sell surplus rifles?

Id love to own a m16 or a variant. Of course I know it has to be rid of its select fire but still.. surplus means cost effective right?


www.bushmaster.com lots of stuff

PS: Is the military carbine all metal?

Anyone care to break into this guys house?