Question About What AMP I Would Need...

[tobz]

the amp produces different wattages at 12 and 14.4 volts. Most good manufacturers will give you wattage ratings for both, most crappy ones just give the 14.4v ratings, since they are higher.

remember, every 3 db's is "twice as loud", so 2w is twice as loud as 1w, and 1000w is a 3db gain over 500w (respectively, while keeping everything else constant).

So the 50-80w decrease in power from 14.4v down to 12v when the bass hits is barely noticeable to the human ear.

Because at that power (1100w) you would need a larger difference in wattages to notice any significant volume difference.

[tobz]

I also agree, stealing was a very, very bad word to use. Never steal, anything.

[tobz]

I would also like to add that I didn't say he shouldn't get a cap, it's just that many people get that as their first upgrade/solution to a problem, when there is often times other things to look at. In this case, a cap might work best, I don't know, I don't have any actual data for his vehicle.

[tobz]

amps work correctly at 12v...

[Miscue]

Originally posted by tobz
the amp produces different wattages at 12 and 14.4 volts. Most good manufacturers will give you wattage ratings for both, most crappy ones just give the 14.4v ratings, since they are higher.

remember, every 3 db's is "twice as loud", so 2w is twice as loud as 1w, and 1000w is a 3db gain over 500w (respectively, while keeping everything else constant).

So the 50-80w decrease in power from 14.4v down to 12v when the bass hits is barely noticeable to the human ear.

Because at that power (1100w) you would need a larger difference in wattages to notice any significant volume difference.

I'm sure a lot of us are aware of this, but this is besides the point. I justified the approach that you discounted as 'incorrect' or newbish... and you've yet to offer a solution in replacement.

[tobz]

well..

Basically I wanted to give him a better insight to his problem (hopefully with information that is more correct), and I could have done it two ways, I obviously chose the way of the "jerk", and had I thought about it more, I would have chosen my words better and not taken this route. No hard feelings about anything, it's a good argument.

[tobz]

Ok, from the top.

The main point I was contesting was that 1100w is not enough power to justify cable larger than 4ga. and not enough power to justify rewiring a vehicle. A capacitor might work fine, but is probably not needed. Again, I didn't mean to call people newbs. I'm just a crabby man at work.

I didn't mean to contest anyone elses opinions/thoughts/advice other than the above forementioned.

T.J.

[Miscue]

Originally posted by tobz
I would also like to add that I didn't say he shouldn't get a cap, it's just that many people get that as their first upgrade/solution to a problem, when there is often times other things to look at. In this case, a cap might work best, I don't know, I don't have any actual data for his vehicle.

I disagree wholeheartedly. A minimum of 1 Farad per kilowatt, if you want your amp to output consistently. You can go without one, and it can 'appear' to be 'functioning.' But not working as it should... and not getting your $350 out of your amp.

[tobz]

And upon re-reading the post, I would like to mention that nothing Miscue said was incorrect. He knows I love him.

T.J.

By the way.. Hifonics Brutus Amps are a very good bargain.

[boomerfoxtrot]

tobz is wise in the audio.. take advice from him.

and really, you don't need a cap unless your car as a old or weak alternator, or you get a power hog amp. Such as the boss, and other cheep high power amp.
audiobahn is a great company, why not look into their amps as well.
Your sub are dual 4ohm so run them with a Class D mono amp for the most "hit power". I have 2 Audiobahn 10" AW1008T and ran two Sony Class D Mono 1200 amps which run at 1ohm well. 1G main wire then 4G to each amp on the power source. I use my "stock" alternator, and a frad bank, I've only had one problem with lack of power and that is when the system was ran with the car off. Killed my batt in about 2 mins. Now I'm not too big into all the tech side of it, I took my car to the audio "pro" shop and they put everything in for me. But that is what my system looks like on the "sub" side... and hey.. I did something right cause my lights don't blink. =]

[tobz]

The main difference between class a/b amps and class d amps is the efficiency. A class D amp will work better on your stock electronics as it is more efficient. Some argue that class a/b distort the sound less... but that is a moot point that is 180* off topic.

[Miscue]

Originally posted by tobz
The main difference between class a/b amps and class d amps is the efficiency. A class D amp will work better on your stock electronics as it is more efficient. Some argue that class a/b distort the sound less... but that is a moot point that is 180* off topic.

Xtant has a class D mono amp with class A acoustics. Pretty cool. I was considering getting two of those, to put on some Dynaudios. Eventually...

Class D for your fronts? At one time I would have thought that was blasphemy!

[tobz]

I agree. I just picked up some CDT CL-61 6.5" component speakers and I can't wait to get them intalled. Great price because CDT made a batch with red paint that "wasn't the right color". So they were $149 instead of $199. Since they're behind grills.. not like I care what color they are. But nice comps. I heard them in a friends car and for the price I don't know if you can beat them. (well, with 1000's of brands, i'm sure it's possible, but oh well).

I'm still undecided on my amp.. The comps are 80Wx2 @ 4ohms (RMS). I would rather get something that I know can hold up to the test of time, but I'm also going all-out extreme budget. I might try my hands on a SONY XM-280GTX.. it would only be abou $80 shipped via ebay, and would fit into the budget. Although I'd rather get a Hifonics Zues 4000... But that would be about $180 shipped. Life is way too full of tough choices.

And since I got rid of my really loud sub, now I need to come up with more "budget friendly" bass, and there are so many choices that i end up spending hours browsing through sub/amp combos that I think I'm going to go nuts.

Anyone out there have a nice 10" or 12" inexpensive sub + amp that they use or have heard and they recommend? I'd like to stay at around $150 for both if possible. A huge step down from my $800 combo that I had before, but like I said, I don't need to go deaf.

T.J.

[Miscue]

Originally posted by tobz
I agree. I just picked up some CDT CL-61 6.5" component speakers and I can't wait to get them intalled. Great price because CDT made a batch with red paint that "wasn't the right color". So they were $149 instead of $199. Since they're behind grills.. not like I care what color they are. But nice comps. I heard them in a friends car and for the price I don't know if you can beat them. (well, with 1000's of brands, i'm sure it's possible, but oh well).

I'm still undecided on my amp.. The comps are 80Wx2 @ 4ohms (RMS). I would rather get something that I know can hold up to the test of time, but I'm also going all-out extreme budget. I might try my hands on a SONY XM-280GTX.. it would only be abou $80 shipped via ebay, and would fit into the budget. Although I'd rather get a Hifonics Zues 4000... But that would be about $180 shipped. Life is way too full of tough choices.

And since I got rid of my really loud sub, now I need to come up with more "budget friendly" bass, and there are so many choices that i end up spending hours browsing through sub/amp combos that I think I'm going to go nuts.

Anyone out there have a nice 10" or 12" inexpensive sub + amp that they use or have heard and they recommend? I'd like to stay at around $150 for both if possible. A huge step down from my $800 combo that I had before, but like I said, I don't need to go deaf.

T.J.

Cool. I almost got the CLs as well, same deal. They had the kevlar ones too, for about $200. I decided not to put anything in my truck, and just wait until I get a new car... and put in Dynaudios or Focals. I haven't auditioned stuff in a while, so will have to get to that later.

You might want to look at Alumapros and Image Dynamics... priced pretty well, don't need a crap load of power... and they're musical.

[SlipknotX556]

In the end I think I may go with ethier the JBL amp or one of the 2 Miscue showed me. The cap, I will just get because its better safe then sorry. But my last question is the dynamat, I was just planning on lining my trunk with it, or is it just better to line the entire car with it? I may sometime in the future replace the stock 4 speakers, but I am not sure yet.