Paintball Photography

[Target Practice]

What goggles are you using with the DSLRs? I tried to look thru the view finder on my 20D with my profilers on, but couldn't really make use of it. Not that I'm in a big rush to take it out on the field (afraid of getting it hit).

I too have wondered about the goggle situation.

[Muzikman]

To be honest, you learn. As long as you use the same mask and the same camera, you learn how much of the viewfinder is lost from being too far back.

[drg]

Also there are indeed cameras that are better and worse for viewing through goggles (different eyepoints and viewfinder magnifications), so see if you can try before you buy.

Wouldn't it be interesting to develop a lens made specifically for photography that has a built-in eyepiece "tunnel" or maybe just a magnified part of the lens?

[Muzikman]

I would never buy a camera based on if you can see through the viewfinder better with a mask on. That being said, there is no reason why you could not make a viewfinder adapter with a magnifying lens in it to give you a larger viewfinder opening.

[Hexis]

That's actually an advantage of the DSLRs with a crop factor, you can still see the entire frame with the eye point back further. The on-field shooting I did was all with an N80. I won't be taking the 1Ds on the filed till I get about my teritary backup body.

[Muzikman]

What do you do that you have a 1Ds?

[CaptaiN_JacK]

Forget about all the camera talk, let's see some more paintball pics Muzik (and everybody else)!

[xmetal2001]

I have only taken a few hits on the camera it's self.

Any damage?

[LudavicoSoldier]

I'm a big fan of my Canon 10D. At first I was reluctant to take a $3500 camera setup out to the sidelines, but I got over it. Never been shot in the camera.

[noahyay]

I was leaning toward 35mm because I am more used to it, and manual focus because of the rule of thirds. I also have a feeling I will run out of space on the camera, and I dont want to have to deal with my computer when it comes to photos.

Okay, you've got me researching digital cameras now...

Please keep in mind I am a student and I dont work the much so I wont be able to afford a several thousand dollar setup.

I will go to the camera store today and I'll get back to you

I will look into auto and manual focus lenses about 70-200mm and Nikkon D70/100's, N90/90s/N100's, Kodak 10D's

[Jack & Coke]

I was leaning toward 35mm because I am more used to it, and manual focus because of the rule of thirds.

What the heck does "rule of thirds" (a composition technique) have to do with "manual vs auto focus"?

Do you even know what "rule of thirds" is?

Or are you just throwing out buzz words without really knowing what they mean?

[noahyay]

When you take a picture and focus the object in the center, it gives bad composition. Divide area into thirds horizontally and vertically and put people or whatever you are shooting where the lines meet. With autofocus it only works when what you are shooting is in the center.

I'm not claiming that I know everything, I'm just a beginner but I have used both manual and autofocus lenses on a N90s.

[MantisMag]

that's why there's selectable AF points.

that's one hell of a nifty shot muz. what shutter speed is that? i love that blur coming out the barrel!

[Jack & Coke]

With autofocus it only works when what you are shooting is in the center.

Well, that all depends on what mode you select.

Most modern auto-focus cameras have multiple focussing points. Yes, they even have them at the "thirds" location in your viewfinder... you can easily change the focussing point from the "center" to one of the "thirds" area.

Also, depending on the action, you can just focus and then re-compose. This is the SAME EXACT procedure you'd do if you were using a manual focus camera. The only difference is that when you re-compose, you hold down the shutter release half way down so that the camera "locks" the focus plane and doesn't re-focus when you re-compose your shot.
(make sure you're using ONE SHOT, not AI Servo or AI Focus modes if you're using a Canon)

Manual focus is way too slow for action shots (compared to auto-focus). You will either have to guess at the focus distance in order to catch the action, or stop down in order to increase the depth of field.

With digital cameras, sports photography is even easier to capture and compose. Don't forget, if the action is too fast for your skill level, just do the following:

• set your camera's focus mode to AI Servo AF
• set your camera's drive mode to CONTINUOUS
• Now fire away with the center focus point directly on the subject. (don't worry about composition)
• Now when you're finished, just crop the picture during post production (photoshop) so that it meets your "rule of thirds" liking.

[scarpa43]

I shoot for a race photographer and use his equipment (for now).
I am either using a 10D or 20D, normally with a 28-300, F5.4 I think.

The best thing about DSLR's is being able to just shoot, shoot, shoot.
You are not concerned with a 36 exp roll running out and having to change rolls just as the shot you were waiting on unfolds in front of you. Just keep a spare card in your pocket and you can change out in seconds.

After using DSLR's, I am sold, it is the way to go.

The website I shoot for is NitroArt.com, I shoot at Houston Motorsports Park, if anyone cares