governor on s10??

[paintballaddict_6]

Hey, does anyone know how I might go about dissabling the governor on my 97 Chevy S Dime... Without the use of a performance chip... Like by cutting a wire or two? The governor shuts me down at about 98 mph and, as everyone knows, this is simply not fast enough. Thanks!

[Lohman446]

No... its controlled through the computer.

[Al_Steel]

Hey, does anyone know how I might go about dissabling the governor on my 97 Chevy S Dime... Without the use of a performance chip... Like by cutting a wire or two? The governor shuts me down at about 98 mph and, as everyone knows, this is simply not fast enough. Thanks!

All cars sold in the US since 96 have a ECU (Engine Control Unit), aka the "computer". There's no way to disable the governor b/c the speed limiter is programmed into the computer. You will have to find a OBDII software programming module or tool which will program your ECU. Usually you plug the module into a diagnostic port for the computer and then perform a procedure to reprogram the ECU. There are several high-performance software programmers out there that can reprogram your ECU for a variety of specific operating conditions like performance, towing, fuel economy, etc. Check out Crane, MSD, Snap-On, etc.

Note: Don't buy the cheap eBay junk unless it's a name brand. Some of the cheap s/w mods you see on eBay will wreck your ECU.

Just a question though.. unless you have lowered and beefed up the suspension why do you want to go over 98mph in a S10? You trying to get your family to collect on some life insurance or something?

[rkjunior303]

there's no reason to be going that fast in an s10.

[behemoth]

I have a 98 sonoma, same thing as an s10.

I almost got hit on the highway, beacuse i topped out at 100. The RPM's dropped, and if i pushed the pedal, nothing happened, scaed the hell out of me, i thought i blew up the engine, turns out it was the limiter. so it wouldnt let me do anything til it got to about 75, and the guy behind me was doing more than that,,,,


It was no good.

[Al_Steel]

If you are really intent on making your S10 Pickup truck (!) go fast then there are SEVERAL things you should do it before you attempt to reprogram the ECU.

-Make sure all rolling chassis components in perfect working condition.
-Speed rated tires
-Lowered suspension
-Upgraded suspension components
-Upgraded steering components
-Upgraded brakes

If you don't have a car that is modified or specifically designed from the manufacturer to handle high speeds then you risk your life, your passenger's life, and the lives of all others around you. There aren't very many vehicles that are safe to drive above 90mph. The tires, brakes, steering, and suspension of the average vehicle just aren't designed to handle the dynamics of high speed driving. Speed without the ability to control it is DANGEROUS. It the reason the manufacturer put the governor in.

MOST IMPORTANTLY; when driving that fast, do it on a secluded highway or closed road course, stay away from those of us that don't want ourselves or our family to be killed b/c you overestimated your ability and underestimated the road conditions.

[paintballaddict_6]

You don't need upgraded suspension to go fast unless you're going to be turning, which I'm not. It's just a straight section of highway that me and my friends drag on. I don't need brakes, either because I have plenty of time to stop. Any idea as to the price of a chip? I don't want to get a chip unless absolutely necessary because they don't do too much in the way of power for gas trucks, they're really more for deisel. They do some sick things to deisel trucks, though. I'm asking about the governor because I recently bought a cold air intake and have plans for a turbo. The preformance mods on it now are flowmaster exhaust with high flow headers, k&n cold air intake... That's about it. It doesn't do me much good to have preformance upgrades but a stock top speed, though.
My seksah hood:

[Lohman446]

You don't need upgraded suspension to go fast unless you're going to be turning, which I'm not. It's just a straight section of highway that me and my friends drag on. I don't need brakes, either because I have plenty of time to stop. Any idea as to the price of a chip? I don't want to get a chip unless absolutely necessary because they don't do too much in the way of power for gas trucks, they're really more for deisel. They do some sick things to deisel trucks, though. I'm asking about the governor because I recently bought a cold air intake and have plans for a turbo. The preformance mods on it now are flowmaster exhaust with high flow headers, k&n cold air intake... That's about it. It doesn't do me much good to have preformance upgrades but a stock top speed, though.
My seksah hood:

Most of the performance chips get rid of the speed limiter programmed in the computer. However, considering your base lack of knowledge demonstrated in your post.... good luck

[Rudz]

lol

Most of the performance chips get rid of the speed limiter programmed in the computer. However, considering your base lack of knowledge demonstrated in your post.... good luck

but lohman look at his pretty hood....

[Lohman446]

What I love is the beleif that a few bolt on mods increase top speed dramatically, and mileage at the same time

[Fred]

lol.... flowmaster and intake are "performance"...

Darwin award here you come if you don't upgrade the tires/suspension/brakes... cause next time you're going that fast and somebody cuts you off... you're hosed when you lose control trying to scoot around them, or slow down in time, or you tires just decide to go since they aren't rated for that level of stress...

[Al_Steel]

**** BIG FREAKING DISCALAIMER HERE ***
Even if you only plan to go fast in a straight line you STILL need to modify your suspension/steering/brakes. This is for your safety and the safety of those around you. PLEASE do not even attempt to make a pickup truck with a high center of gravity and a VERY light rear end go over 100mph. I cannot stress enough how dangerous this is. If you stray from your line and make a quick correction you will loose control, crash, and very likely die!!
***********************************

Ok, perhaps you didn't read my original post.

You don't have a "chip". You have a self contained ECU that is pre-programmed from the factory. There is no "chip". OBDI cars (pre 96) have chips. Yours is a 1997 so it's OBDII.. ergo no chip. You might be able to buy a "piggy-back" chip that you rig up to your car somehow, but these can wreck your ECU, your O2 sensors, your catalytic converters, and God knows what else. I wouldn't trust those on my lawnmower.

The only way you are going to remove the governor and maybe make a little speed is to re-flash the software. This will require: A) an OBDII programmer B) software mapped for your specific engine, modifications, and desired application (speed, economy, towing, etc.)

You can bolt all the crap you want on to a newer vehicle and the cost to performance ratio will be out of sight. You MIGHT (I'm being overly generous here) get 5 extra HP from a free flowing intake and exhaust. I'm talking REAL horsepower at the wheels, not some estimated crap you get from a non-rolling dyno or worse.. the butt dyno. Some bolt-on's will actually harm your engine's performance.

The reason for this is that your stock fuel map is programmed into the ECU. Your engine will actually compensate and work against any bolt on mods that you perform. That's why it makes me laugh to see all these kids blow tons of money on bolt on mods for cars that will give them MINIMAL gains yet they think they have some kind of real performance street machine. The only vehicles that see appreciable gains from bolt ons are older cars without all the engine controls of more modern vehicles. There are some "tuner" engines that respond very well to bolt-on mods. This isn't really because it's such a great engine, it's because the engine is so choked down from the factory to meet EPA regs that simply cutting a hole in airbox is enough to give it some extra performance.

For a modern, stock, NA (naturally aspirated), engine with modern engine controls you have very few options short of real engine mods (more aggressive cams, larger valves, free flowing heads, the list goes on) to make HP. Free flowing exhaust/intake + a re-flash MIGHT give you 10WHP. It will sound cool, but you are only making noise, not HP regardless of what the manufacturer's dyno sheets, marketing hype, or sexy Asian chicks say. The ONLY way to make real horsepower (30+ WHP) on most modern engines is to flow the exhaust, and install a Supercharger/Turbocharger. Of course to do this right will require modifications to several other components which easily put you into sports-car territory in terms of price.

There is always N2O (nitrous) which is all the rage, but that comes with it's own list of problems. Not the least of which is the potential to fry your valves, burst your head gasket, cook your rings, etc. etc. Probably not a very good option for an aging engine.

Good luck and try to keep all 4 wheels on the pavement.

[Al_Steel]

Oh, a couple of other things I forgot to mention.

-Usually when you re-flash an ECU for performance you MUST run high octane fuel or else it will ping/knock. Not sure what your compression ratio is so this may not be an issue.
-Because you have re-mapped your fuel curve the engine will run richer/leaner depending upon operating conditions. This will most likely cause your CEL (check engine light) to light up b/c the O2 sensors are reading values that are outside of their normal operating range. Sometimes the only way around this is to install wide range O2 sensors. Either that or simply ignore the CEL.
-I have no idea where you got the notion that only diesels benefit from ECU modifiaction. Diesels may get a larger benefit from ECU flashes b/c of the very strict EPA regs, but gasoline engines certainly benefit. You will never get the full potential out of engine modifications without re-mapping the fuel curve. In fact, an ECU re-flash typically gains more HP/dollar than any other "Stage I" modification you can make.
-When re-flashing the ECU make sure the tool you are using will allow you "undo" the reflash and take your ECU back to factory specs. You may fail a "sniff-test" inspection with a reflashed ECU. The only way to pass is to get your car back to OEM specs. Also, if you mess-up while re-flashing your ECU your car will not start or run properly. Only a trip to the dealer will fix it so you are forewarned.

[paintballaddict_6]

What I love is the beleif that a few bolt on mods increase top speed dramatically, and mileage at the same time

I don't quite recall saying anything about mileage increase... and
Fred, anything that boosts your preformance could be considered a preformance upgrade, and exhaust does exactly that. And the highway I'm talking about is one of those deserted hic roads that nobody drives on, so there is no chance of getting cut off.

[Army]

Well, OUR Governor rides on a HUMMER!

The "mods" on my Ranger are a K&N, removed the air baffle and the intake horn, removed the play from the throttle cable, and installed a high flow fuel filter. Went from 22mpg, to 29mpg. Keep in mind though, that I do have an Airgun Designs windshield sticker that ups my speed by gobs and gobs