Anyone know anything about gas ranges?

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  • hvacman250
    www.pbpumpshop.com
    • Jun 2005
    • 385

    #16
    I do HVAC/appliance and gas work for a living. If some burners work, you should be able to rule out the regulator to the stove. And the whole incoming line itself.

    Kinked hose? I doubt it.

    The problem is most likely in the valve itself (the part you turn that say high, med, low, etc.)

    Dont be afraid to take it apart and wtroubleshoot back to the gas source. When you put your gas fittings back together, test the joints with soapy water. There is nothing to be worried about.

    Need further help, ask or PM me.

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    • nulam
      Registered User
      • May 2003
      • 75

      #17
      I had the same thing happen to me. One top burner wouldn't light and eventually the stove itself stopped working. I paid an appliance repair man $60 to fix the stove because I had 3 working top burners. He told me that the stuff that is used to give natural gas the scent does not completely combust and leaves a residue. All I needed was a little pipe cleaner action. It was well worth it for me because: 1. I don't work with explosives; 2. It cost a lot less than a new stove; 3. Didn't get my hands dirty; 4. Stove was dismantled and reassembled correctly.
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      • hvacman250
        www.pbpumpshop.com
        • Jun 2005
        • 385

        #18
        Originally posted by nulam
        I had the same thing happen to me. One top burner wouldn't light and eventually the stove itself stopped working. I paid an appliance repair man $60 to fix the stove because I had 3 working top burners. He told me that the stuff that is used to give natural gas the scent does not completely combust and leaves a residue. All I needed was a little pipe cleaner action. It was well worth it for me because: 1. I don't work with explosives; 2. It cost a lot less than a new stove; 3. Didn't get my hands dirty; 4. Stove was dismantled and reassembled correctly.
        1. If you can find a LICENSED, INSURED, and BONDED repairman to come work on it for $60 now-a-days, go for it. With gas prices the way there are now, our rate is $95/hr plus a trip charge.

        2. I think its hilarious how all you paintballers are scared of gas, but a 4500 PSI tank near your face doesnt creep you out. Now that gives me the willies.

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        • Steelrat
          I meant to...uh, nevermind
          • May 2003
          • 5375

          #19
          Originally posted by hvacman250
          I do HVAC/appliance and gas work for a living. If some burners work, you should be able to rule out the regulator to the stove. And the whole incoming line itself.

          Kinked hose? I doubt it.

          The problem is most likely in the valve itself (the part you turn that say high, med, low, etc.)

          Dont be afraid to take it apart and wtroubleshoot back to the gas source. When you put your gas fittings back together, test the joints with soapy water. There is nothing to be worried about.

          Need further help, ask or PM me.
          Yeah, I was thinking the valve also. However, I just thought of what the issue might be. The left two burners on the stove (the two that went out) both have a burner function called "XLO" If you put it on that setting, the stove will automatically shut off, and then reignite, the burner for low heat. Could there be some sort of electrical controller for that?


          A site for gay and alternative lifestyles: www.zakvetter.com

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          • Steelrat
            I meant to...uh, nevermind
            • May 2003
            • 5375

            #20
            Okay, just took it apart, and I think I know what the issue is. The right two burners are conventional, in that the knob turns a spark switch and also turns on the valve. The spark switch is hooked up the spark module, which causes the spark. Now, the LEFT two burners work differently. They both have mechanical valves, which I really can't believe would fail. They are also before the right burners on the gas line, so if there was a block, they'd all be dead.

            Now, the left burner knobs go through a potentiometer instead of the spark switch. The potentiometer is wired to a simmer control box. The simmer box is wired to the spark module. There are also two solenoids wired in-line with the gas piping on the left two burners. Now, when the knobs are turned to the XLO function, which cycles the burners on the left side, the simmer control module (I assume) will utilize the solenoids to turn the gas on and off, even when the knobs are still set to "on." They will also coordinate the solenoid function with the gas function. I messed around with the box for a minute, and actually got one of the burners to start working again, but then it promptly stopped.

            http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=1162518 Thats the part. I'm probably just going to take a chance and order the damn thing. Travel time alone for the repair guy will run more than that. I managed to fix my central A/C last year, so I feel fairly confident in my abilities Worst case, I have an extra part lying around in case it ever breaks, but I am pretty sure I am right.

            Wish me luck.


            A site for gay and alternative lifestyles: www.zakvetter.com

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