Should it be called a MicroX?

[BiNumber3]

No it's some unbranded lever ASA, they were sold on eBay a few years back, they work quite well, tho had to modify the pin depressor on em a bit, as they were too long for most tank pins. Quite solid tho, once the pin was fixed.

[Merce]

Looks pretty similar. But very good looking with that drop

[BiNumber3]

Yea, the lines fit surprisingly well, something I didn't notice initially at all when buying it in Hindsight, probably shoulda bought more (only bought 2), can't seem to find em anywhere anymore

[bowcycle]

Like that? Only single frame I have. I like it, but doesn't quite fit the way I hold my gun

Thanks. I really like the single-trigger look. A modified CCM 86* cocker frame would probably be really sweet, but spendy. (but it would also go to the end of the rail).

[BiNumber3]

Yea, I've always liked the CCM single frames, but if I'm going to modify a frame to fit, I'd rather it be a $20 frame

[BiNumber3]

Small update - Pretty much only 1 anodizer I've spoken to is even willing to try masking the ring, but even before finding him, I was thinking about other options.

I'm thinking I can completely remove the ring, and have a new ring installed (from Luke or PTP, likely going with Luke's once he's finished designing it for his new gun). Attempted tapping it out from the powerfeed, you can just barely see the outer edge of the ring through the dovetail milling. It didn't budge at all, and I was afraid of putting too much force, so another option was needed lol.

I decided to mill the bottom out abit, ULE milling pretty much, and from there, will drill out the steel ring from the bottom (basically drill small holes in the ring till it's cut). This idea came about mostly after I found I could probably get a rew ring if this one was destroyed (either from remove or from the anodizing). Will update on whether drilling it out is successful.


Also, milled my intelliframe a bit, and screwed up... so cut off some material inside, no issues there, and cut off some material from the bottom, and there, I screwed up, for the better lol.
I drew lines with a sharpie, but couldn't see them very well when dremeling. However, it looked fine during. After sanding and ensure it was level, I noticed something was off.

Turns out I dremeled the material off at an angle. Approximately 5 degrees off 0 lol. At first I thought, oh crap... but then, realized it might not be so bad. You can kind of see the angle in the picture below.

But here are some pics of the milling, and the current setup minus the foregrip:






Oh, and I polished up the beat up X-Valve I had, seemed the best option aside from anodizing. Turns out the dings were a lot deeper than I thought, as though the previous owner tossed it in a tool box n shook it around.
I didn't wanna sand too deep tho, to preserve the outer diameter as much as possible. Looks pretty, even with the dings. Polished the velocity nut too, looks like a rear-view mirror lol.

[OneSelfLost]

Badass!!

[bowcycle]

that looks really cool even without a foregrip. maybe even better because it doesn't have the foregrip.

[Merce]

Can't wait to see how you mill the fg

[BiNumber3]

Thanks guys, just waiting on the foregrip to get back to me (sent it out to get airlines and threads done), but here are some pics and details of the Spring Cup removal, for reference mostly, in case anyone else needs to/wants to.



I milled a small slot along the side of the spring cup, using a dremel and a small rotary burr. Milled it a bit wider than the burr itself, to give me space to work with after (Very important, as it'll be the only stable edge for tapping at the spring cup)

Then cut the spring cup itself, using the same burr. Just have to be really careful to not go too far, making sure to stop just before the breech (probably wouldn't affect anything if you do go past, but if you can avoid it, might as well)

With the cut in the spring cup, it becomes much easier to tap the spring cup around with a small screw driver and hammer. I started by tapping the 2 edges around where I cut, to loose things up.




Below, is a picture of the dovetail where the powerfeed attaches, and where I'm pointing is a thin slit in the corner, where the spring cup is visible (should be visible on all micros). Using that slit and a small screw driver, I tapped it a few times there as well to loosen it up, not too much though.

Side-note here: I think this may be the reason some ano projects fail, easy to overlook this spot when masking.



Once you loosen it up and move it a bit, the diameter of the body opens up and it slips right out.


Not sure if there would've been an easier way to do this, with less milling done to the body, but even PTP told me it was unlikely they'd be able to get the ring out, and it'd be easier to find someone to mask it.

[OneSelfLost]

Man that's sweet!

[C_losjoker]

Should call it, ExMicro.