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Thread: couple more sydarm questions

  1. #1
    fhawkeye Guest

    couple more sydarm questions

    Trying to solve a shoot-down issue. Is it believable that because it runs off CO2 this is most likely that the teflon o-ring needs to be replaced?

    also in the small pack of o-rings it came with there is a solid blue o-ring (not the bumper) that I can't figure out where it could possibly go.

  2. #2
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    Blue orings are usually made of silicon. Def not a AGD Oring. Install it where ever it fits, it'll work.

    Is this the same Sydarm that's leaking at the top? Need to get that fixed before doing anything else. I'm sure Luke could get it sealed again.

    http://www.lukescustoms.com/

  3. #3
    fhawkeye Guest
    Yeah it is lol. Thanks, I gave luke a buzz.

  4. #4
    fhawkeye Guest
    By the way Ando, here's a pic of that leak so you can confirm what I'm seeing:



    seems like the leak is coming right out of the weld between the co2 chamber and the body (the bubble).

  5. #5
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    Ando, I’m not familiar with that, do you have an idea what the problem may be?

  6. #6
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    I'm willing to bet the Seal between the feed neck and body deteriorated. If you pull your valve out and look up inside the body, you'll be able to see the channel where the air travels into the valve. In that channel there's a black oring/gasket looking thing sandwiched between the tube and body. Looks like yours might have just bit the farm. I don't want to pull mine out due to the fact that...well...I don't want to screw it up so it might be best for you to try and dig yours out and see what it actually is since it's already leaking.

    If it's a gasket you're hosed and you'll more then likely need to send it off, get the feed tube pulled, gasket replaced and feed tube re-brazed. If it's a oring then replace the packing. Knowing how Mr. Kaye like to keep it simple-stupid, I'm sure it's just a oring.

    Again. I'm not sure what it actually is. I've never ran into this problem or heard of anyone having this issue with their Sydarm but there's defiantly something between the body and feed tube and it feels rubbery. I don't remember seeing a oring that size in a Sydarm rebuild kits so it might be something you'll have to get with Tom or AGD on. I'm sure they can give you more info on it.

    I even looked around for a manual on the damn thing.

    Butkis
    Last edited by Ando; 05-05-2010 at 02:47 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fhawkeye
    right, the 2-orings on the 12gram adapter and the 2 o-rings on the valve seem fine. The leak is coming from the seam between the co2 chamber and the housing on the outside of the marker right next to where that pinhole is that allows co2 flow into the valve.

    It's a very slow "bubbly" sounding leak.

    edit: messing around with some 12 grams, the leak goes away after a few minutes with enough pressure to dry-fire about 10 shots before shoot-down. Could there be like a temperature... factor... having something to do with this? maybe a thin area of the weld retracts enough to leak for a little bit then expands again when the co2 has a chance to warm up a little?

    If the o-rings were faulty I dont think it would cause a leak here thats why I jump to science class.
    Hey. I went back to your leak thread and did see this last post.

    Co2 will shrink your orings which can cause leak issues and is exactly what your getting. I'm willing to bet the seal sandwiched between the tube and body is on the brink of going bad but will probably be fine with compress air. Compressed air isn't going to cause shrinkage so it shouldn't leak. I know that's something you're not wanting to hear but at least you'll get a little more life out of it before you "have to" go digging into the body to replace the seal.

    I actually tried to take one for the team and attempted to pull the seal out of mine with a bit of force but it doesn't seem to want to budge. My best guess is it's a gasket sandwiched between the 2 almost like the sleeper pneum setups with the frame and ASA.

    Tuna sells CA adapters for the Sydarm. I have one for mine and love it. You can use a remote or put a small 13ci tank on it and go play. If you go remote, you should be fine using Co2 if that's all you have.
    Last edited by Ando; 05-05-2010 at 01:11 PM.

  8. #8
    fhawkeye Guest
    Oh. I had no idea there was an o-ring in there I assumed it was just welded around that hole because yeah there are no o-rings in the replacement kit and I dont have the means to get it out of there. Looks like AGD's getting a phone call... damn.

    At least I know now, Thanks Ando

  9. #9
    fhawkeye Guest
    How do you even get a hold of Tom Kaye now-a-days? Does he still frequent AO?

  10. #10
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    He's on the forums. Just doesn't post too much and I don't remember his e-mail address.

    I always thought it was welded too till about a few years ago. After cleaning out the marker I got paint up in that hole. When I started cleaning it out is when I noticed the seal.

    It just completely slipped my mind till I remembered about it.
    Last edited by Ando; 05-05-2010 at 02:06 PM.

  11. #11
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    The blue o-rings are for your co2 quick changer (internal). If you ever need to take it apart I would suggest making a video to keep track of the order everything came apart....

  12. #12
    fhawkeye Guest
    So I called AGD about the seal thats leaking, Apparently that o-ring is so awesome that they had to make a machine specifically for installing it. Not only is it not included in the Sydarm parts kit, but it doesn't even have a part number because it's so hard to replace yourself they don't bother selling it. While explaining this to me he went ahead and included 3 with a separate order I was making to save me the "hassle" of sending it in (which, to be fair, I'd rather not send something this rare through the mail anyways).

    After the phone call was over I as kinda like "uh... wait a second...". I give it 2-3 weeks from now until Roman gets to use his machine.

  13. #13
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    I looked in between the body top tube with a 16X magnified loop and couldn't see an o-ring. I wonder if you weld all around the body and top tube if that would eliminate the need for the o-ring...

  14. #14
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    ROFL...Nice dude.

    Well, good luck with installing it brother.

    Let us know how it goes.

  15. #15
    fhawkeye Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by flyingpootang
    I looked in between the body top tube with a 16X magnified loop and couldn't see an o-ring. I wonder if you weld all around the body and top tube if that would eliminate the need for the o-ring...
    It's hard to distinguish but if you poke around with a fine pick you can feel the difference in the rubber to the steel. It's black and very thin.

  16. #16
    fhawkeye Guest

    Fixed

    The process took about half an hour. Ended up using a steak knife to gouge out the bad o-ring (5 minutes). Then proceeded to chop the tip off of a tooth pick and used that to prod the new o-ring into place, took 7-8 attempts before I got it right.

  17. #17
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    Congratz!!!

  18. #18
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    Good to see you've got it fixed.
    I have the exact same issue, Tuna said he would take care of it for me but my lazy butt hasn't dug it out to send it to him.

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