BAD Leak after co2 got in Lv7 Valve

[Bagheera]

I just can't seem to get the warp right ULE body to mesh well with the stock rail. I've even ground down the upper sides of the rail, so it sits real flat, but nothing seems to work. I have no more slow hiss from where the sear hits the on/off, but no fast recharge like I get with the stock body on the stock rail. I get an initial good shot after gas up, but slow/no recharge with the ULE warp right.

Has anyone else had experience grinding a stock rail to fit a ULE or warp right/left body? What am I doing wrong?

[Spider-TW]

I get an initial good shot after gas up, but slow/no recharge with the ULE warp right.

It sounds like you are getting there. It sounds like the on/off pin is too long for the way it sits in the ULE body (probably a different tilt of the valve body). You can test this by putting some scrap shim material like brass under the valve and see if the recharge improves. If it does, you probably have some other fitting issue to work out.

[Bagheera]

It sounds like you are getting there. It sounds like the on/off pin is too long for the way it sits in the ULE body (probably a different tilt of the valve body). You can test this by putting some scrap shim material like brass under the valve and see if the recharge improves. If it does, you probably have some other fitting issue to work out.

In order to hold the valve up higher, but not the pin? Would something like a washer suffice for this test? Or do you mean shimming the pin, but not the valve assembly?

[athomas]

If you get some shims (ULT or level 7), put them in between the two halves of the on-off assembly. They will simulate a shorter on-off pin. If you have no shims, use shim stock and make some yourself.

Note: ULT shims are 0.005" thick and level 10 shims are 0.010" thick.

[Bagheera]

If you get some shims (ULT or level 7), put them in between the two halves of the on-off assembly. They will simulate a shorter on-off pin. If you have no shims, use shim stock and make some yourself.

Note: ULT shims are 0.005" thick and level 10 shims are 0.010" thick.

I'm on the hunt for shims. For now, I found (and am ordering) the level 10 shims from the AGD site. However, would getting a ULT or RT on/off fix my problems altogether? I know that getting either will lighten my trigger pull regardless, and this can't be a bad thing (other than firing like a moron and short-stroking the trigger pull.)

[athomas]

If I were to get a new on-off assembly, I would get the retro on-off rather than the ULT on-off. The ULT may or may not work properly in the classic.

[Spider-TW]

If you get the shims and the RT on/off, you should have the parts neeeded to compensate for a poor rail/valve/body fit. The RT pin should be the same length as the classic pin, but you can add the shims to the on/off itself to effectively shorten the pin.

[Bagheera]

Thank you so much everyone, you've all been a HUGE help! The gun fires scary accurate now, and is working perfectly, thanks! =)

Looks like this gentleman is having the same problem;

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=233194