Rigging a Tippmann-like Response Trigger

[mostpeople]

Because there is no way you are going to be able to capture air from the porting on the barrel, or from a detent.

[peeeto]

Because there is no way you are going to be able to capture air from the porting on the barrel, or from a detent.

i respectfully disagree that there is "no way".

air from the porting could easily be captured by wrapping electrical tape on the barrel on either side of the ports, then sliding an oversized section of plastic pipe over it to seal it off (i've already done that for a home-made silencer). then, you'd simply tap into the solid pipe for the air pressure.

there definitely is air pressure there to be utilized - just fire your marker with your hand near the ports and you'll feel the air puff out of them.

and as for the detent, all you'd have to do is remove it and install a nipple to connect the macroline to.

the better place to tap into the body is just after where the end of the bolt is at its max. extension when firing. from the pneumag animation, it looks like there is room enough there for a small port to be tapped.

the question for any area that the pressure is accessed from is: is it enough pressure for a long enough time to give greater force than the trigger pull? probably not from the stock detent area - it's too far back and by the time the bolt pushes back to uncover it, the ball is down the barrel and the breach opening is uncovered as well for air to escape out of.

as far as the air pressure needed, i think a relatively small amount could make this work: the smallest cylinders (5/32" bore) provide 2 lbs force at 100 psi. even with 50 psi, it would give 1 lb force, which is greater than trigger pull with ULT. the 5/32" bore cylinders have an OD of 0.19" and lengths of 0.87" to ~1.3", which will definitely fit into a gripframe.

if i remember the #'s right, the next larger size (5/16" bore) provide 7lbs at 100psi, and still have a small enough diam. to fit in a gripframe (although i think the ones i've seen are a bit long to fit without milling the frame more).

[mostpeople]

Ok tell us how the barrel porting thing works out..

and tell us how accurate the shots are when its mounted

[peeeto]

Ok tell us how the barrel porting thing works out..

and tell us how accurate the shots are when its mounted

if i ever actually get around to it, i definitely will.

anyone else have any input? i read somewhere that some guy in England successfully hooked up a Tippmann Cyclone feeder to a mag, but he didn't provide details, and it was an old post to some other BBS, so i couldn't get a response

p.s. what the heck would blocking the ports have to do with accuracy?! barrel porting has absolutely NOTHING to do with accuracy. please read up on Tom K's. & others research provided here & elsewhere.

BTW, i plan on doing this with a continuous-bore barrel (not a stepped-bore like the one that comes stock with a Tac-One). even still, i wouldn't expect that blocking the ports of a stepped-bore barrel would have any effect on accuracy. maybe possibly maybe maybe maybe on consistency due to differential pressures that might possibly be generated in the ports in front of the PB as it travels down the barrel... but this is paintball we're talking about - even with the very best of markers/barrels, paintball shots are not perfect mainly paintballs are not perfectly round (uneven contact w/ inside of the barrel). furthermore, the fact that PBs are round is the cause of much instability in and of itself, but that's a whole other discussion that's been had many times before...

[d4m4don3]

If you got rid of the ULT and put a regular r/t on off assembly you wouldn't have to do this much work. Without the ULT the trigger is more controllable.


go here

http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paintballs/automag_info/rapidfire/rf_disclaimer.html

[peeeto]

If you got rid of the ULT and put a regular r/t on off assembly you wouldn't have to do this much work. Without the ULT the trigger is more controllable.


go here

http://www.zakvetter.com/pages/paint...isclaimer.html

yup - that web page helps convince me to buy a mag seeing what they can do. but i do not have the cash to spend on another tank regulator.

i did try it with the stock on/off, but even with my tank outputting ~1150 psi, still not good for me. (i just fixed my post above where i said (tried to say) that i did try out the stock on/off).

if i can get this working for $15, some tubing, and some light, non-destructive milling on my mainbody, it's worth it for me not to have to spend hundreds of more dollars on a new tank regulator.

from some of the posts i've read here, a more than a few people would be interested, too. most recently: New Tac One... NOT HAPPY!.

[angrysasquatch]

The barrel porting thing wouldn't work at all IMO. The shroud that you'd put over it would have such a great volume inside that the air would simply compress to a few PSI, then vent back out the porting after a split second that it takes for the air in the barrel to normalize. It wouldn't end up moving anywhere.

Your second idea shows some promise, but the question remains-why? The bounce can be so much better on the mag than the piston RT design of Tippmann. Easily twice the speed, anyways, and I couldn't control the RT of my A-5 worth a damn. 1150 PSI should be more than enough pressure to get some serious bounce, I'd say its more likely the recharge on your regulator that's the problem, not lack of pressure. I suggest you trade your regulator with a bit of money for a nice adjustable one. In Zak Vetter's videos, there's one where he slowly modulates the pressure from his finger, and you see a direct effect in the speed of the gun's cycling. Try doing that with a piston-based system!

If you really want to go through with this, I'd say that hooking up a barb to the side of the gun is probably the best way. I suggest you also use a adjustable flow restrictor like Tippmann's system has. Possibly also a one-way valve and/or QEV. I still think that with a homemade system trying to do something as complicated as this (think of the timing, what if the piston takes half a second to reset the trigger) is bound to leave you spending more time with tinkering than playing on a day of paintball.

[KC]

ok, i tried it with the stock on/off and a blade trigger on the intelliframe. it does give a good kick back, but not as pronounced and controllable as Tippmann RT.

i'm sure i'd get vastly better reactivity with a better tank regulator (i only have a PMI Reactor reg on the tank, which i've shimmed to increase the output pressure), but they are much more $ than just a few parts to try this idea out.

Get an adjustable tank and set the output for 1100. Done.

[PBChappy]

also if it is a new rt on/off you need to break it in to get it to rip, when i get home i will make of video of my setup and you can see what i mean about giving a vlocity a run for its money

[olinar]

buy a classic rt and put 1000 psi through it.

/end thread

[MANN]

i did try it with the stock on/off, but even with my tank outputting ~1150 psi, still not good for me. (i just fixed my post above where i said (tried to say) that i did try out the stock on/off).

If you have the stock on/off, and a tank with 1150 psi you should be ripping strings. If not something is not setup correctly. I can get an easy 20bps mech with mine. If you cant figure it out pm me, and I will try to help more. Regardless you should be getting a higher bps/reactivity.

Edit: I would stay away from a tippmann reactive trigger "add on" It will be more work than it is worth IMO. The same goes with a cyclone feed, but hey if its what you want knock your socks off. A Qloader is a very nice way to stay mech as far as loaders are concerned. I never liked the cyclone feeds anyways. They always gave my friends trouble which ended up giving me problems becuse they would send them to me to fix.

Either way good luck.

[AirAssault]

You want tippmann reactivity, buy a tippmann.

[cadams]

[Piranti]

If you want an even more reactive trigger throw in an Emag on/off in there makes the RT seem like a stock non E Spyder =P

[Dend78]

yeah it kinda sounds to me like there is something wrong there, it doesnt slam your finger back forward as hard becuase its designed to have a smoother sweet spot. plus at least with the one i have and many others i have seen will rip the face off most RT tippys, plus you dont have to find that stupid lil spring when you take it apart and it flips you in the face

also yeah the shroud idea around the barrel is not gonna work man yr gonna end up with like 1 or 2 psi maybe in the shroud after the gun fires, thats if you can capture every bit of it, which not gonna happen.

once you get it done and set how you want it please take pics and a video i personally would like to see how you end up especially if its on 20 bucks to do it. eitherway i wish ya luck