sear not resetting?

[Madmarx]

When mine wasn't working it was Exactly what luke is saying.
I had to shorten (turn in) the trigger rod.
Works great now.

[mr doo doo]

i did take it into consideration, but for like a second luke. should i screw in the rod more, or unscrew it more? it was sort of hard to screw/unscrew it, thats why.

[Madmarx]

i did take it into consideration, but for like a second luke. should i screw in the rod more, or unscrew it more? it was sort of hard to screw/unscrew it, thats why.

Yeah they're tough to get moving at first.
You want to screw it in (righty tighty) to make a little more room between it and the trigger.

[mr doo doo]

cool, thanks! ill give it a try and soon try it with the valve when i get air.

[luke]

i did take it into consideration, but for like a second luke. should i screw in the rod more, or unscrew it more? it was sort of hard to screw/unscrew it, thats why.

I can not answer that without having the marker in my hands. You really need to look closely at the marker to figure out the problem.

If you pull the trigger the first time (after the marker is aired up) and it doesn't fire I would "guess" (because I can't see for myself) that the rod is too short (or, your stops are set incorrectly, I don't think you stated if you were running them or not). If it fires once and doesn't reset I would guess that is is too long.

Think of it this way, if the rod is too short it does not engage the on/off fully > i.e. the marker does not fire. It also feels like a "spongy" trigger".

If the rod is too long, it may fire once but not twice. That is because the on/off does not have room to reset for the next shot. The only way to reset it would be to bleed the air and turn back on. It is too long if the rod is touching the back of the trigger, there should be about 1/32" gap between the trigger and the end of the rod when it is aired up and firing properly.


I'll say it again, it is critical that the rod (or trigger stops) are set correctly. If there is NOT sufficient room for the on/off to operate correctly the marker will malfunction. This is a fine tune adjustment, you must take small steps to get it right. You may have to assemble and disassemble your marker a dozen times to get it right. Pay attention to the details. Regardless of weather or not this is the problem, it STILL must be adjusted properly. I have seen where my trigger mod caused the rod to be too short and it needed to be adjusted, that is to be expected in some cases. Which I think this is one of those times.

Reread my original post.

[Madmarx]

Excellent job of describing the whole thing there Luke.

[mr doo doo]

yes, that was well said (and sort of makes me look like a ), but the only reason why im not updating really is because i have no access to air, and wont for awhile. luke, your thought will be the first i try out, but then again, i would need air.

but im pretty sure that its just too long, and im going to have to shorten it a bit. when i aired up my gun, it would shoot a shot right away...my assumption would be that its too long. Plus, after a few shots, it turns into "spongy trigger".

oh, no, im not using stops, just the bare trigger itself. either way, im going to try to lengthen and shorten the sear to see what happens. im just afraid ill get tired of unscrewing and re screwing the valve and such in

thanks luke

[luke]

and sort of makes me look like a

Sorry man, it was not my intention. But, since you brought up my name in this conversation I needed to make sure you understood the importance adjusting the trigger rod correctly in relation to the mod I did for you.

[mr doo doo]

haha, its all good. and yea, i get where you are coming from, but dont get me wrong, your work is still grade A to me, all i just need is a little adjustment.

[mr doo doo]

is it just me or can i not screw/unscrew the rod of my sear? is there a certain way to do it?

[Zone Drifter]

I know what problem you are having, and It's hard to explain, but I'll try.

The trigger rod is not a problem, although improperly adjusted it can be. In this case it's not though. For me, when I begin shooting faster, the gun locks up. The bolt appears not to be seating fully, as in the sear is not catching it when it is pushed back by the spring. Also, i noticed that It's not the bolt, or the sear because i swapped the parts out with a fully functioning valve. Also, I used both the regular on/off and the ULT on/off with the same gun lockup results. I've also taken the valve apart many times, completely (although not the parts that are not supposed to be disassembled) and have not found one hint leaning towards something out of place. I've tried a little oil, and no real results.

This problem has baffled me to no end, and I'm about ready to see if i can send it in to agd for repairs. I know it's hard to assess a problem witout looking at it in person, so I apologise if my explanation is still short. I find it hard to believe that I'm the only one with this problem, and apperently mr doo doo is also having the same results as me.

[Mongoose]

Make sure you didnt overtighten the screw that holds the sear in place :)

[mr doo doo]

^^ its not that, im using a classic rail, so the sear is moving freely.

Zone Drifter, in conclusion, you havent found out what the problem was? maybe i need a new spring?

[Irish Deth]

This is bolt stick on a lvl X. Go to a larger carrier without shims, add shims to tune.

[Zone Drifter]

Zone Drifter, in conclusion, you havent found out what the problem was? maybe i need a new spring?

Heres what I did to get it working, but it in no way solved the problem, merely re-configured it.

I took my minimag valve with lvl 7, and the x-valve with the lvl 10. now, because my x-valve didn't come with any lvl 10 hardware (i acquired it used) I didnt have much of a choice in carrier adjustments, but i did have some and plenty of shims from my RT Pro's lvl 10 kit. The lvl 10 seemed fine, i mean it was working perfectly, yet I still had the lock up problem.

So heres what crazy old me did...

I took the lvl 7 off my minimag vlave and swapped it with my lvl 10 from the x-valve. So now i have a perfectly working minimag valve with a perfectly working lvl 10, and an x-valve with a lvl 7 bolt that has absolutely no firing problems whatsoever.

I use HPA regardless of the gun i choose to use, i don't even own a CO2 tank anymore, so that's no issue, and I have not had any bolt stick in either of the valves. So, in conclusion, you know how some people say they were born to be gay? Well i think my x-valve was born to be a classic valve...

So yeah, didn't solve the problem, kinda... just, took a different approach.

EDIT: If you have any other valves, try swapping the parts, just remember there they originally go to...