sear not resetting?

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  • mr doo doo
    doo doo, stanky
    • Mar 2007
    • 1379

    #31
    hahhahaha, ah, i see. want to keep it level 10 because i need that extra coolness

    im not sure what is the next carrier size. currently i have the carrier with a dot.

    Comment

    • Zone Drifter
      Here and there...

      • Mar 2007
      • 541

      #32
      Originally posted by mr doo doo
      hahhahaha, ah, i see. want to keep it level 10 because i need that extra coolness

      im not sure what is the next carrier size. currently i have the carrier with a dot.
      The carriers go up like this: No line, then dot. one line. one line and dot. 2 lines. 2 lines and dot... so on an so on. So a dot is like a half up from a line.

      So if you say you are using the carrier with a dot, that means it's the 2nd smallest carrier. the smallest is the one with no lines or dots on them.

      Comment

      • luke
        lukescustoms.com

        • Jan 2001
        • 8215

        #33
        Originally posted by Zone Drifter
        I know what problem you are having, and It's hard to explain, but I'll try.

        The trigger rod is not a problem, although improperly adjusted it can be. In this case it's not though. For me, when I begin shooting faster, the gun locks up. The bolt appears not to be seating fully, as in the sear is not catching it when it is pushed back by the spring. Also, i noticed that It's not the bolt, or the sear because i swapped the parts out with a fully functioning valve. Also, I used both the regular on/off and the ULT on/off with the same gun lockup results. I've also taken the valve apart many times, completely (although not the parts that are not supposed to be disassembled) and have not found one hint leaning towards something out of place. I've tried a little oil, and no real results.

        This problem has baffled me to no end, and I'm about ready to see if i can send it in to agd for repairs. I know it's hard to assess a problem witout looking at it in person, so I apologise if my explanation is still short. I find it hard to believe that I'm the only one with this problem, and apperently mr doo doo is also having the same results as me.
        I find it interesting that you "know it's not the trigger rod" but you can't tell him the problem.

        mr doo doo, I still you suggest you follow my instructions before moving on.

        Comment

        • Zone Drifter
          Here and there...

          • Mar 2007
          • 541

          #34
          Originally posted by luke
          I find it interesting that you "know it's not the trigger rod" but you can't tell him the problem.

          mr doo doo, I still you suggest you follow my instructions before moving on.
          Well I'm not saying you're wrong, It could be that, but with me I've both used a stock trigger rod setup and one that I can adjust, and It didn't solve the problem. Although, I will continue to adjust mine to see if that does the trick, because I don't plan on keeping my valve parts switched.

          Also, for a classic valve with a lvl 7, what would cause it to double fire? I seem to be making trouble for myself... 2 out of 3 valves I own are on the fritz, and the only one that's tuned perfectly (RT Pro) I can't use in a tournament...

          So yeah Luke, you know alot more about these than I do, but all I have to give for advice is what I try on my own. =/

          Edit: Yes, you are right, some trigger rods need to be adjusted byond that of stock setup. I re-adjusted mine some more and it seems to be working much better. I'll test it out this weekend on the field. Btw, thanks for the advice Luke. :)
          Last edited by Zone Drifter; 10-18-2007, 02:35 PM.

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          • mr doo doo
            doo doo, stanky
            • Mar 2007
            • 1379

            #35
            so it does work? cool.... but like i mentioned before, I CANT GET MY ROD TO SCREW/UNSCREW!!

            i have removed the arm a few times to place it back into the regular position that its almost widening off the sear. but anyways, i dont know how to make it screw/unscrew easily!!?!?!

            Comment

            • Andrewliu6294
              Nothing to do but wait.
              • Jul 2007
              • 258

              #36
              use a set of pliers in one hand to hold the connecting piece. then take another set, clamp it on the rod, and twist.

              I least thats how i do it.

              Comment

              • luke
                lukescustoms.com

                • Jan 2001
                • 8215

                #37
                I believe it has loc-tight on it. I've never had a problem adjusting them, I just use pliers. You can warm it up with a lighter, it dosent take much.

                Comment

                • luke
                  lukescustoms.com

                  • Jan 2001
                  • 8215

                  #38
                  Well I'm not saying you're wrong, It could be that, but with me I've both used a stock trigger rod setup and one that I can adjust, and It didn't solve the problem.
                  The reason I said that is because I did a sear mod to the sear. I know that this sometimes requires that the rod be readjusted.

                  Although, I will continue to adjust mine to see if that does the trick,
                  This is a problem in itself.

                  Either it is adjusted correctly or not. There should not be any guess work. You need get that right THEN if you still have a problem you can move on to diagnose it.

                  You are correct there can be more that one problem, but if the sear rod is screwed up you'll have a hard time finding the other problems.

                  Since the sear arm WAS moved (I know because I did the work) it stands to reason that this is where he needs to start.


                  Also, for a classic valve with a lvl 7, what would cause it to double fire? I seem to be making trouble for myself... 2 out of 3 valves I own are on the fritz, and the only one that's tuned perfectly (RT Pro) I can't use in a tournament...
                  Well what is the common denominator? Are you using the same sear and changing out the valve? Perhaps the sear is wore out. These do need to be replace from time to time.


                  So yeah Luke, you know alot more about these than I do, but all I have to give for advice is what I try on my own. =/
                  My only problem is you said out right that the trigger rod adjustment was not the problem. Nobody on this board including myself knows for certain what the problem is. It is difficult to tech a marker when you can't see it for yourself. Because of what I do know about the situation first hand, I'm advising him to start here because of everything I have stated previously.


                  Really, this whole thing is getting blown out of proportion. All we need to do is start with a correctly adjusted trigger rod, it's not brain surgery.

                  Comment

                  • Zone Drifter
                    Here and there...

                    • Mar 2007
                    • 541

                    #39
                    Originally posted by luke
                    Well what is the common denominator? Are you using the same sear and changing out the valve? Perhaps the sear is wore out. These do need to be replace from time to time.
                    Hmm... That might be the case with that other sear I kept adjusting. The doube firing though happens on my minimag/classic. I put a minimag body on it (it had an rt pro style body on it before) The only difference I can see between the bodies is the sear hole. On the rt body, it's smaller, slim fit for just the sear, but on the minimag one it has room for a pump rod. I don't want to mess up another sear, so I think I'll just leave the rt body on it.

                    And sorry about that, I spoke too soon before. Totally didn't see that you did the mod for him (even though he says it in the first post) x.x

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