Just got my TAC-ONE...Need help!!!

[mushroom]

I'm gonna lube it up again tomorrow and let her rip. hopefully it will work right. How many bps should I be able to pull off of this thing anyway?

[xxkylexx]

I'm gonna lube it up again tomorrow and let her rip. hopefully it will work right. How many bps should I be able to pull off of this thing anyway?

As fast as you can pull the trigger.

[Badmovies.org]

Shoot one or two tanks of air through it to break her in. Then, put in 6 ULT shims (a Lvl 10 shim is twice as thick as a ULT shim if you want to use them). If it will still shoot - it may go full auto or not fire at all - add another shim and try it. If not, remove a shim. Now shoot a few more tanks through it to break it in and get some muscle memory in your finger.

Now, if you really want her to rip, get a tank that outputs 1100psi (I know some airsmiths who will shim a PMI tank to that) or get an AGD Flatline regulator and turn up the output to 1100-1200 psi. Then she will really rip. For mine, I find that 1100 psi is the max I can go and ensure that the marker will still only fire once. Any more input pressure and sometimes I get RT effect that fires bursts.

If you put a Flatline regulator on your tank, I definitely recommend a 4500. In fact, I'd always recommend a 4500 tank for an AGD marker. The 68/4500 is a nice size if you mount it on the marker.

My AGD Chronicles have a lot of information about me playing with my x-valved markers:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=219465

[mushroom]

175 for a reg???!!! does it come with a bag of chips or something?

[Badmovies.org]

175 for a reg???!!! does it come with a bag of chips or something?

Interesting. I would guess that you have never fired an x-valved marker with an adjustable regulator on the tank. The Flatline is an excellent adjustable regulator.

Let me put it this way: I have two markers; both have tanks equipped with Flatline regs, and I never have thought, "Gee, I wish I hadn't spent $175 on each of those regulators."

[geekwarrior]

175 for a reg???!!! does it come with a bag of chips or something?

you can pick up an adjustable maxflow for cheaper

[xxkylexx]

Now, if you really want her to rip, get a tank that outputs 1100psi (I know some airsmiths who will shim a PMI tank to that) or get an AGD Flatline regulator and turn up the output to 1100-1200 psi. Then she will really rip. For mine, I find that 1100 psi is the max I can go and ensure that the marker will still only fire once. Any more input pressure and sometimes I get RT effect that fires bursts.

I'd be interested in getting my Pure Energy fixed high pressure tank/reg up to those outputs like you mentioned. Any idea how/where I can get this done?

Thanks.

[Badmovies.org]

I'd be interested in getting my Pure Energy fixed high pressure tank/reg up to those outputs like you mentioned. Any idea how/where I can get this done?

Thanks.

Check with your local paintball stores. From what I know, it is a pretty simple matter of them putting some shims in to increase the output pressure.

[xxkylexx]

Check with your local paintball stores. From what I know, it is a pretty simple matter of them putting some shims in to increase the output pressure.

I tried getting them to rebuild my reg a few weeks ago and none of them would touch it, so I doubt any would be able to do that. I'm going to an event at the end of this month and PE and Crossfire will be there. I'll see what they say.

Thanks!

[aznmarkofdafiji]

From what I've read, it doesn't sound like you've tuned your mag yet.

I HIGHLY suggest you tune it, break it in, retune, and it's basically set for a LONG time. You need to tune your mag to YOUR setup as you don't have the factorys set up. It's very simple to tune, it just takes some time and air. It is also VERY easy to take the mag apart and reassemble it. You can probably tune a mag in 15min. out of the box if you know what you were doing.

But if you don't, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the names of the parts of your mag and follow a small tuning tutorial I wrote earlier:

When tuning, it's suggested that you don't have your ULT in, so there are fewer factors to worry about.

What you want to do is find the largest carrier that does not cause the marker to leak down the barrel when you gas it up. The way I tuned it was as tunaman described:

Finding the right carrier
DO NOT USE SHIMS while doing this, adding shims comes much later in the tuning process.

1) Gut your level 10 down to taking the carrier out.
2) Arrange all your carriers from largest to smallest.
3) Starting from the largest carrier and working your way down in size, you want to put the white o-ring inside the carrier and slide it over the bolt. Hold the carrier and see if the bolt falls. If it does the carrier is too loose. You want the carrier that bolt does not fall down from. note: ALWAYS use the same white O-ring
4) Once you have the right carrier, put it all together and gas it up and check for leaks. If you just got this mag new, you probably need to set in the carrier o-ring so fire your mag a tank or so and it should leak again 'cause the O-ring got set in. So you would go down a carrier size.


When you find the right carrier from the bolt-carrier weight test and you gas it up one of two things happen:

1) There is no leak - Fire the marker for a tank or until it leaks. If it leaks that means you set your o-ring in and you need to go down a carrier size.
2) There is a leak - Move down a carrier size. Gas it up and check for leaks again.

If by chance, you're on the smallest carrier(no markings on the carrier) with no shims and there is a leak, then you need to change the white o-ring that goes into the carrier and start the tuning process all over again.

If you followed the directions from the beginning to the letter and there is no leak, then you know you have the right carrier size.


Shims
So now, you hopefully have the right carrier size. Lets move on to shims:

1) Gut your mag down to removing the powertube tip.
2) Add one shim Make sure it sits flush by pressing down on it with a blunt end of a object(i use the back end of my dental pick)
2a) If you haven't done this already, oil up the o-ring lightly on the power tube tip.
3) Reassemble your mag, and gas it up. One of two things happen;
3A) It does not leak - Repeat steps 2-3.
3B) It leaks - Remove one shim and go to step 4.
4) Dry fire your mag firing slow/fast and check if it leaks when you pull the trigger. If it does, remove a shim, gas it up and dry fire test it again. If the leak still occurs remove another shim, and dry fire it again.

If you don't have any problems with your mag dry firing, you should be now tuned. Now chronograph your mag using the proper technique:

1) Hold down the trigger.
2) Release the trigger and hold it again as quickly as you can.
3) Repeat as necessary

When firing fast, the X-valve is most consistent. Hence why you use this technique.

[mushroom]

After talking with Roman Rios at AGD, he walked me through the whole process or re-shimming and the brass inserts. Non of it worked. I had to ship it back to them for troubleshooting and repair. I have to admit that the guy really nice about it and understanding. After we had tried everything it wouldn't even shoot so he just told me to send it in. He even gave me the company's shipping number so I wouldn't have to pay for it. He is going to do it personally since he was stumped and wanted to see what the problem was for future reference.

All in all I have to say they are doing what they can for me.

[Thotograph]

They always will as long as you have the right attitude, and you do... best of luck with your tac. I would say when you get it back don't be afraid to take the marker apart, at your own pace mind you... and really learn the thing inside and out. Mags are the most simple markers to maintain.

Here's the circa 1995ish RT instructional Video, watch it and you'll learn a good deal of info... Plus "the lovely assistant" Tina is pretty hot for it being the 90's and she knows how to disassemble a mag pretty well, definitely hot. The valve's fundamentals have not changed at all, only the air input location and some of the materials used are different on your Xvalve. The video doesn't help with level ten tuning of course, as it didn't exist yet, but it gives you the fundamentals... I can see someone has already posted a decent guide for lvl-x tuning. This vid will give you a good visual guide through your valve/gun.

As far as getting max bps from your marker, in mech (with the ult) you can't expect much more than 10bps unless you have amazing technique with the trigger. If you make it rapid fire you'll get as much bps as you can handle but it may not be legal where you are playing. No matter what the valve is capable of cycling faster than we humans can pull the trigger, as long as it is being fed enough air this is true... Speaking of which the best piece of equipment you can couple with your mag is a good adjustable tank (as previously mentioned, I like Dynaflows and Flatlines myself), and a 4500 at that. I love 88 or 92 ci bottles because I don't have to fill them as much. 68's are nice for size but you'll find the efficiency is average at best with mags... but who cares because the level ten more than makes up for it after the first time it engages and prevents a chop. You can tune for more or less efficiency with the level ten (stiffer bolt spring = less likely to chop and less efficiency).

[mushroom]

i use my back up for final battles in scenario ball. just for better efficiency and longer range capabilities. I am really thinking about the flatline reg though. i can see the uses of a good adjustable reg.

[Silverback]

I am glad that the shop is takin care of Ya, AGD has ALWAYS backed their product very well.

I have two questions for ya. It may not be as much of an issue as you think...

1.) Before you got your TAC-one, have you ever shot a MAG?

2.) When you are shooting, a. which finger, b. how far is your finger insert onto trigger.


Here's why, 1.) ALL of us who shoot MAGS, have a tendency to forget how differently a MAG "feels" when you shoot, because we are used to shooting it. That's why I asked if you had shot one. They "feel" different.

The trigger pull on a MAG, even with a ULT is far crisper and TIGHTER than any other trigger, making it seem slow and "out-of-wack" in comparison.

2.) IMO (In My Opinion) the easiest/best way to shoot a mag (Electro or mech) is by using the SIDE of the pad of either index or middle finger, NOT the whole finger pad. Then you"fan" the trigger "up/down", rather than "in/out" I will add some pics to illustrate better.
But right now< I don't have the camera.

[varq]

mushroom...

i have 5 shims in my ULT and i use a flatline adjustable tank set at 1000psi output... I can walk my trigger w/o short stroking... pretty darn fast!!!! not as fast as my emag but really impressive for a MECH!