lvl 10 tuning issues - tac one

[xxkylexx]

Hey guys,
Went out to play today with my new mag, and am having issues with the lvl 10. Using the short gold spring the gun seems to be shooting fine, however, it chops paint.

So I switch to the silver spring, and cannot get it to shoot right. The gun will not even fire unless I have the velocity over 300 fps (spungy trigger deal). Even then, it chuffs if you try to shoot at any higher rate of speed than 1 bps. I cranked the velocity up as high as the gun will go, and it still chuffs if you pull the trigger any faster than about 1 bps.

So, I switched down to the red spring. Same exact problem as with the silver spring. I turned the velocity up as high as the gun would go, and it chuffs every other shot with any rate of fire over around 1 bps.

The only spring I can get to work at about 280 fps is the gold short spring (which just chops paint on me).

Any ideas?

Thanks!


****UPDATE****** VIDEOS ADDED:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=kC1v5JNuHOg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1_hKU_b7tc

[Coralis]

You may have too tight of a carrier try going up one size and see if that helps ... Oh and GO GATORS

[xxkylexx]

You may have too tight of a carrier try going up one size and see if that helps ... Oh and GO GATORS

Thanks. But if the carrier is too tight, wouldn't going up one size make it even tighter or I am just missing something? lol

Ans yes, Our Boy Timmy

[aznmarkofdafiji]

Thanks. But if the carrier is too tight, wouldn't going up one size make it even tighter or I am just missing something? lol

Ans yes, Our Boy Timmy

Going up a size for carriers is going from:
1 Line 0 Dot
to 1 Line & 1 Dot

or 2 Lines & 1 Dot
to 3 Lines & 0 Dot

Going up a size in carrier means to use a BIGGER carrier.

When tuning, you want the BIGGEST carrier that DOES NOT leak when you gas it up.

[xxkylexx]

Thanks. I'll give that a try when I get some air.

[xxkylexx]

I just opened up the powertube and the carrier in there is the one with just 1 dot, no lines. Does that seem pretty small compared to what most end up using, and quite possibly may be my problem?

When I go it, it didn't leak or anything, so I just assumed it was tuned already.

Thanks,
Kyle

[Madmarx]

put in a 1 line carrier then a 1 line 1 dot and so on til it starts to leak, then go back down one size.

[xxkylexx]

I went out again today and having the same issues. I used a larger carrier (to the point just before it leaks) and added another shim (just before it leaks). Then broke in the o-ring with a few hundred shots.

If I shoot with any rate of fire higher than around 1-2 bps, it seems (to me) like the valve is not recharging fast enough to get the next shot off and "chuffs" out. (using the red and silver springs)

Any more suggestions?

[secretweaponevan]

Is it chuffing when dry fired over 1-2 bps, or could you possibly be having feed issues and the lvl 10 is doing its job?

What loader are you using?

Does it chuff when dry fired?

Crank on the velocity adjuster until just before it leaks. Does it still chuff when dry fired?



edit: Start with 2 shims. Stay at 2 shims unless you have bolt stick. You might have too many shims in there. How many are you using?

[xxkylexx]

Is it chuffing when dry fired over 1-2 bps, or could you possibly be having feed issues and the lvl 10 is doing its job?

What loader are you using?

Does it chuff when dry fired?

Crank on the velocity adjuster until just before it leaks. Does it still chuff when dry fired?



edit: Start with 2 shims. Stay at 2 shims unless you have bolt stick. You might have too many shims in there. How many are you using?

Yes, it chuffs when dry fired and when shooting paint. Just about the same. I have a 12v revvy, i dont think the problem is with that.

I have turned the velocity up as high as it can possibly go on the gun (does not leak), and it does not effect the 1-2+ bps chuffing at all.

I originally had 2 shims in it (last week when testing), but added another one this week (3 total) when retuning it since it didn't leak.


CURRENT SETUP:
1 line 0 dots carrier
3 shims (4 leaks)

[xxkylexx]

Anymore suggestions?

I called AGD support and the guy there told me to cut the gray spring down to a point where it works good. That doesn't really seem like an optimal solution to me.

[Coralis]

try adjusting the front grip screw and the field strip screw you maybe getting a little bit of bolt stick caused by misalignment of the body and rail.

[Pudgey51]

what kind of tank r u running with and whats the output pressure at?

[secretweaponevan]

I originally had 2 shims in it (last week when testing), but added another one this week (3 total) when retuning it since it didn't leak.


CURRENT SETUP:
1 line 0 dots carrier
3 shims (4 leaks)

Go down to 1 shim, then do the squeegie test to see if you need more in order to get the bolt to reset after doing its job. Putting in shims until just before it leaks is not the correct method of discerning how many you need.

In previous posts, you said you went to a larger carrier, but now you are saying you are back on 1.0. Try going up to 1.5 (1 line 1 dot), or even 2.0 (2 lines). Remember, you want the largest carrier that does not leak (after the o-ring is settled in). A too-small of a carrier would cause the bolt to "think" that it was always encountering an obstruction and reset and vent.

After you get the largest carrier that doesn't leak, do the squeegie test. A bolt obstruction venting will sound different than a chuff. Which is it?

Also, are you using a classic valve, or an RT/X/Emag valve?

Be sure that there isn't any teflon tape or other garbage in the reg/on-off/air passages causing a flow restriction

[xxkylexx]

try adjusting the front grip screw and the field strip screw you maybe getting a little bit of bolt stick caused by misalignment of the body and rail.

Which front grip screw are you referring to? The screw on the trigger frame, the one that holds on the foregrip asa assembly from the inside, or both? I don't think my trigger frame screw is that tight at all, My field strip screw is always finger tight.

what kind of tank r u running with and whats the output pressure at?

I am using a Pure Energy 88/4500 with stock HP reg (which should be like 800-850 psi).

Go down to 1 shim, then do the squeegie test to see if you need more in order to get the bolt to reset after doing its job. Putting in shims until just before it leaks is not the correct method of discerning how many you need.

In previous posts, you said you went to a larger carrier, but now you are saying you are back on 1.0. Try going up to 1.5 (1 line 1 dot), or even 2.0 (2 lines). Remember, you want the largest carrier that does not leak (after the o-ring is settled in). A too-small of a carrier would cause the bolt to "think" that it was always encountering an obstruction and reset and vent.

After you get the largest carrier that doesn't leak, do the squeegie test. A bolt obstruction venting will sound different than a chuff. Which is it?

Also, are you using a classic valve, or an RT/X/Emag valve?

Be sure that there isn't any teflon tape or other garbage in the reg/on-off/air passages causing a flow restriction

Carrier 1.0 is the largest that doesn't leak. Although, it does leak very slightly every now and then.

What I am experiencing is a chuff, not a obstruction vent. The chuff causes the ball to load half way down the barrel, or barely roll out the barrel each time.

I am using a tac-one which comes stock with the x-valve. Everything is stock and has not been messed with (no ULE trigger as well).

I've inspected everything and find nothing foreign that would be causing a restriction of that sort.