Shots per tank and lvl 10 problems

[JLag-2/69]

I finally got to take out my Mag yesterday for the first time and do some playing with it. I spent about an hour and a half toying with it, then got it to work. Problem is I only get about 300-400 shots out of my 70/45 stubby tank. The velocity was chronoed at about 255. That dosent sound right at all. I know the mag isnt the most gass efficient but that is CRAZY! Also, after doing some cleaning and re-oiling this morning the lvl 10 isnt working right again. The bolt wasnt recocking all the way unless i reach in and pushed it slightly back myself. I am using the shortest of the three springs however, the Magsmith sent it to me with two springs the SAME legnth, a red and a silver, and the shortest that is on it now is also silver. I thought there were 3 colored springs?!?! I have 3 springs and 2 colors; 1 red and 2 silver and only 2 different sizes so I dont have a middle one or large one to swith to. I am not sure why it isnt working right because the mag was shipped to me tunned, for a short time at least, and I fired it 1000 times to break in the spring (that was 3 tank fills by the way). I put two more shims in it and it seemed to stat to work fine and recock fully but then I ran out of air after about 30 shots or so later. The air hog issue is KILLING me because I cant tune it at all, ill shot through a full tank in like 30 minutes with the leaking it does during tunning adding to the loss of air efficiency. I am using the smallest carrier, which seems like it isnt too snug and lets the bolt slide fairly easy aloung the stem. I also have 4 or 5 shims in now, lost count. What to do!?!?!?!!? Any help will be much appreciated!

[TheRock]

tune it without shims to see if you got a shim leak or a carrier leak.

[JLag-2/69]

I got it to not leakand it was recocking, but like i said i only got to fire it about 20-30 times before I was out of air. Now I have to refill...again...and try it. The issue seems to have been the recocking, which a spring change i think will do the trick after a little more investigating. Like I said though, even when I get it to finally shot right I am only getting about 300-400 shots out of a 70/45 tank. It is using so much air I can actually watch the dial move on the reg after every trigger pull until its empty.

[TheRock]

are you shooting paint or just air?

mine is doing roughly 500shots with paint 48/3000bottle at 260fps.
it seems to suck alot of air when just dryfireing, but many markers does that.

[JLag-2/69]

It does use more air dry firing, but with PAINT I am only getting about 300-400 shots. It is even less than that without.

[athomas]

You do have the three springs. The short one is usually the gold spring. The middle spring is red. The grey spring the same size as the red one is much stiffer.

If you are getting bolt stick like you described, you need to use a larger carrier. The bolt springs only adjust the softness of the bolt on the paint. A shorter, lighter spring can sometimes compensate for some of the inconsistencies, but it is usually better to just take the time to properly tune the gun.

Take out all the shims when tuning your level 10. Shims can cause leaking that is sometimes confused with a carrier leak. A properly tuned level 10 will fire properly and always reset, even without any shims. Shims only change the distance that the bolt must move before it can reset. This comes into effect only after a breach blockage. If the bolt vents or fires a shot, then the shims are not needed. If the bolt moves but does not vent, then shims are needed to shorten the required distance to allow it to vent. Shims don't fix a problem with the bolt not resetting under general operation.

Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Always use the same oring when changing carriers.

Dru firing does use considerably more air than shooting with paint. If you get your level 10 properly tuned, I think your air consumption will be better as well.

[JLag-2/69]

Ok thanks for the help! The lvl 10 is a bit tricky but I hink I might get it right this time. I am hoping the sots per tankwill go up once properly tuned...thanks guys!

[maximusgladus]

You do have the three springs. The short one is usually the gold spring. The middle spring is red. The grey spring the same size as the red one is much stiffer.

If you are getting bolt stick like you described, you need to use a larger carrier. The bolt springs only adjust the softness of the bolt on the paint. A shorter, lighter spring can sometimes compensate for some of the inconsistencies, but it is usually better to just take the time to properly tune the gun.

Take out all the shims when tuning your level 10. Shims can cause leaking that is sometimes confused with a carrier leak. A properly tuned level 10 will fire properly and always reset, even without any shims. Shims only change the distance that the bolt must move before it can reset. This comes into effect only after a breach blockage. If the bolt vents or fires a shot, then the shims are not needed. If the bolt moves but does not vent, then shims are needed to shorten the required distance to allow it to vent. Shims don't fix a problem with the bolt not resetting under general operation.

Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Always use the same oring when changing carriers.

Dru firing does use considerably more air than shooting with paint. If you get your level 10 properly tuned, I think your air consumption will be better as well.

Hi guys,

a question on the air-consumption. Why should it consume more when dry firing? A mag has its chamber (which is fixed volume) filled up with regulated air in before each shot. So why should it consume more?

Thank You.

[lidocaine]

Does that mean that you must take the black o ring off your previous carrier and place it on the new one?
Why do they put them on the carriers at all?

Thanks.

[mobsterboy]

Hi guys,

a question on the air-consumption. Why should it consume more when dry firing? A mag has its chamber (which is fixed volume) filled up with regulated air in before each shot. So why should it consume more?

Thank You.

if a ball is in the chamber it has something to push on and not as much air will be let out in the small amount of time it takes to cycle.

[jade_monkey07]

that is odd about your air consumption. i have a 68/3000 on my tac-one and i can shoot my hopper and all my pods. 4x120 and my hop holds 240, and i still have just under 1000 psi left. iv got a small leak in my maxflo now. so recently its been around 500 psi left after all that.

[secretweaponevan]

Does that mean that you must take the black o ring off your previous carrier and place it on the new one?
Why do they put them on the carriers at all?

Thanks.

Nope, the white o-ring inside. That is the one that gets "broken in" to the shaft on the bolt.

[lidocaine]

Thank you.I would have been changing the black one with no effect.

[rawbutter]

Like everyone else said, your air efficiency definitely sounds like a level ten problem. I'm sure it came tuned from themagsmith, but after the LX gets broken in, it needs to be readjusted. I would use the longest spring you have (the silver one, usually), and then start from scratch. Follow the LX instructions here.

Once you have the LX fixed, that should help your air efficiency a lot.

Something else to check, though, is that you're getting a complete fill. I had a similar problem with my tank.... until I realized that I wasn't getting 4500 psi. Apparently, when I brought the tank in (with a cover on), the field attendant assumed that I had a 3000psi tank (instead of asking me or peaking underneath the cover), and so he didn't fill it up the whole way. But if I get a full 4500 psi fill, then I get about 700-800 shots out of my 68/4500 with a LX and a pneumatic trigger.

[athomas]

Hi guys,

a question on the air-consumption. Why should it consume more when dry firing? A mag has its chamber (which is fixed volume) filled up with regulated air in before each shot. So why should it consume more?

Thank You.

With a ball in the chamber, there is back pressure preventing all the air from exiting the bolt quickly. The bolt actually cycles back with a fair amount of air pressure remaining. When you dry fire, there is no back pressure, so all the air quickly dumps out of the chamber before the bolt returns to seal it off. The result is more air per shot is used when dry firing.