They require some precision between your fingers that won't develop on any other marker. The first time you walk a pneumag you either haven't walked a marker before or you've been using electros.
Here's the wrong way:
In your off hand, hold the end of a pen or pencil. With one trigger finger push the other end of the pencil down about an inch. Now put your other trigger finger down and lift the first one. Repeat. You have now 'walked' the trigger without actually letting it move. Zero latch/recharge time. Getting a 10ms gap between one finger and the next (100 bps equivalent) is easy. You need at least 30ms (33 bps).
To get it right, put the pencil on top of your trigger fingers and keep it elevated without bouncing.
With shot buffers, delay, dwell and ramping you'll never see a bad shot.
There is a level of performance to be tuned into a pneumag that helps reduce chuffing so that between a little training and a tuned trigger, most people won't be able to tell that it is not an electro. All that you know about good trigger action on regular mags still applies to pneumags. The on/off needs to work right, the bolt needs to return quickly and every thing attached to them needs to be free to move but not move any farther than they need to.
Long levers on MSV-2s make the trigger pull too light and the weight and friction of the sear and trigger make the return sluggish. A ULT will fight you in two ways, low actuation pressure to push the MSV back and low return force on the sear. You can use a ULT in a pneumag, but the setup usually needs to be a little different. Slow return gets more delay on recharge and more chuffs.
The other thing you need on a pneumag is a force feed loader. Since the time between one ball and the next may be the equivalent of 30 bps, a gravity feed is not going to cut it. Even with a force feed, the level 10 is going to kick in until your fingers learn to stay within the feed rate.
And that's entertainment.
Here's the wrong way:
In your off hand, hold the end of a pen or pencil. With one trigger finger push the other end of the pencil down about an inch. Now put your other trigger finger down and lift the first one. Repeat. You have now 'walked' the trigger without actually letting it move. Zero latch/recharge time. Getting a 10ms gap between one finger and the next (100 bps equivalent) is easy. You need at least 30ms (33 bps).
To get it right, put the pencil on top of your trigger fingers and keep it elevated without bouncing.
With shot buffers, delay, dwell and ramping you'll never see a bad shot.
There is a level of performance to be tuned into a pneumag that helps reduce chuffing so that between a little training and a tuned trigger, most people won't be able to tell that it is not an electro. All that you know about good trigger action on regular mags still applies to pneumags. The on/off needs to work right, the bolt needs to return quickly and every thing attached to them needs to be free to move but not move any farther than they need to.
Long levers on MSV-2s make the trigger pull too light and the weight and friction of the sear and trigger make the return sluggish. A ULT will fight you in two ways, low actuation pressure to push the MSV back and low return force on the sear. You can use a ULT in a pneumag, but the setup usually needs to be a little different. Slow return gets more delay on recharge and more chuffs.
The other thing you need on a pneumag is a force feed loader. Since the time between one ball and the next may be the equivalent of 30 bps, a gravity feed is not going to cut it. Even with a force feed, the level 10 is going to kick in until your fingers learn to stay within the feed rate.
And that's entertainment.
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