emag will not fire

[Crap_Boy_Smith]

probably - I'll ask the science dept head where I work. What do you want me to measure??

[Ruler_Mark]

Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

you measure from the bottum of the black thing to the top including the part that attaches to the sear.

[BigEvil]

Even batteries that 'fully charge' can be bad. I have just come across two that are shot, but still show 18+ v after a charge. They will only fire the gun a few times when they are first done charging and then thats it.

[Crap_Boy_Smith]

so I need to take the solenoid and plunger out first I guess.

Any way to check to see if the battery is bad if it is reading a full voltage? There are no other emags near me that I know that I can test it on either....

[Ruler_Mark]

so I need to take the solenoid and plunger out first I guess.

Any way to check to see if the battery is bad if it is reading a full voltage? There are no other emags near me that I know that I can test it on either....

BigEvil -- but his gun isnt fireing once on E mode.



you do not need to remove the noid, just the sear to measure that.

[Crap_Boy_Smith]

it looks like it will be difficult to find calipers - I will look harder tomorrow.

I have the multimeter now - how do I safely test the battery under load?

I have the rail and everything off now too - safety looks ok.

[Crap_Boy_Smith]

no luck on the calipers - going to call around today see if any buddies can get them at work.

I cant seem to get the plunger out anyway - it cant go up as the metal of the grip is in the way and I can t slide the whole noid out since it is attached to the sear.

Not sure how much I want to play with this as I dont want to make it worse....

Any more ideas/suggestions?

[Ruler_Mark]

if you can be without it and some money I can help you out, pm me if interested.

You gotta pull the clip off of the plunger then the whole sear will come out

[Crap_Boy_Smith]

ok completed the following today:

took the plunger out and cleaned it. Made sure the inside of the solenoid was clean, reassembled.

As per someones suggestion regarding the solenoid used, tested the solenoid and got 3.8 ohms (which according to him was ok, so solenoid didnt seem blown)

Seemed that after reassembly the solenoid pushed on my finger harder os I was hopeful. Gassed up and...nothing. Still fires in mech mode, but not emode. If I use my finger to depress the plunger a bit farther (almost firing) then press the trigger the gun fires by electronics. The solenoid just doesnt have the power to fire the gun.

Switched out the on/off with my other x-valve. Just the brass part - quad oring and on/off pin the same - still doesnt work. May try switching entire valve tomorrow and see if that helps.

I'm going to give a full overnight charge tonight and hope that it helps - any other tests with the battery to see if it is the problem? I heard putting 2 9v batteries in series and hooking them up can fire the gun - should I try this?

Any ideas will help - I'd love to send this away to get teched, but customs is a pain to send it to the states....

[Ruler_Mark]

<a href="http://www.modmymag.com/images/displayimage.php?folder=custom&imga=IMG_0283.jpg"> <img src="http://www.modmymag.com/images/custom/IMG_0283.jpg" width="600"></img></a>

thats how to measure it. only you want 3.005 and I was lazy to measure it that close.

[Tunaman]

<a href="http://www.modmymag.com/images/displayimage.php?folder=custom&imga=IMG_0283.jpg"> <img src="http://www.modmymag.com/images/custom/IMG_0283.jpg" width="600"></img></a>

thats how to measure it. only you want 3.005 and I was lazy to measure it that close.

I dont like the 3.8 ohms. 2.8-3 ohms is good. Make sure you disconnect the leads from the board to test it. I also like the further end of the scale for the plunger at 3.010. As the solenoids get older, you may have to lenghten the rod a little bit.

[Ruler_Mark]

I dont like the 3.8 ohms. 2.8-3 ohms is good. Make sure you disconnect the leads rom the board to test it. I also like the further end of the scale for the plunger at 3.010. As the solenoids get older, you may have to lenghten the rod a little bit.

this was from a gun with only 2200ish on its shot counter so its got some time

[Crap_Boy_Smith]

It was at 5.004 and I screwed the plunger out to 5.010 as seen in the picture.

After overnight battery tested at 20.01 V - but the red light was still on - this mean anything? other times the light had turned green and battery read near 19V.

Changed reg seat as well - that o-ring was in pretty bad shape. Added tons of lube.

End result - seemed worse. The amount of effort the solenoid seemed to be putting force seemed less. The noid wouldnt even wiggle a bit (still fired on finger simulating air pressure)

How do I remove the solder? One of my techie friends said there was a device to do that, but he didnt have one - he has volunteered to do the soldering for me, but I need to know how to remove the solder to test the noid.

This is starting to frustrate me a little bit - I always prided myself on being able to tech any mag problem, and have been able to for a while. However non-mech issues seem to have me stumped.

[Ruler_Mark]

at what temp did it sit? how much was it used pre-sitting?

It is beginning to sound like the noid is done. You batt pack sounds fine, if the valve shoots in mech mode and you have the emag length on off pin. The only thing I would try would be to raise the dwell.

[Crap_Boy_Smith]

lets say the temp it sat at ran between 50 and 75 degrees.

Pre-sitting it was used about twice a month for about a case a month paint. Total shots >20000. Never had an issue, so its the fact it was sitting.

Can you tell me how to get the solder off so I can test the noid off the board? There is someone I can get a used noid off for 30 shipped, so I will do that if its the noid that's gone.

How can I change the dwell? I have no xmod software.