Originally posted by Hilltop Customs
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Mine slides through it. Is it supposed to just push the o-ring up?All YOUR BASE ARE BELONG TO US -
no its supposed to be able to slide through it, just when you pull the trigger it moves up just far enough to seal....not really going through very far. I guess I said that wrong, sorry.Comment
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I can push my pin through the top oring too. I gather that when aired up, it doesn't go up through the o ring, but it doesn't take much force to slide that pin through the top O ring.
0.740, measured with calipers. 0.75, our difference is less than the size of a ULT shimComment
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the only other thing i can think of is body/valve not properly seating onto the rail. Unless the on/off side of the sear was shaved down at some point. Bolt wear on the sear wouldnt cause it, because if the trigger was fully depressed it should still seal on that oring.
im out of ideas
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Have you checked your rail where the valve and reg sit? If there is a burr on it from your previous 'event', it could add 'thickness' to your rail/valve fit. Also, try tightening the rear frame screw a little more than hand tight, if you have the new style screw. This brings up another point; the old style rear frame screws were a little too long for the xvalve sometimes, make sure the valve is tightening up on the rail, not just the screw. Or add a washer under the head of the rear frame screw if it is too long.Comment
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I have the original rear screw that came with the 68 Classic, and I do recall that while the valve is secure, it can wiggle a tiny bit. I'll add a washer and tighen the fit a little bit.Originally posted by Spider-TW
Additionally, if I were able to somehow increase the height of the sear, where it contacts the ULT pin, do you think that would help? I have the original sear that came with the hyperframe and it has a different shape. It sits way too high in the frame now, but maybe some modification of that sear will allow me to close the gap between the ULT and sear, that is if any of you think it will help?Comment
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well, I added a washer and it helped. It only double fires now, using the hyperframe. I'll swap out for the proline after work (I really want to get the proline working, but I'll make my peace with any of the frames that end up working). But maybe by adjusting the hyperframe settings I can eliminate the double fires.Comment
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Check that the rail is smooth under the valve too.
If the back of the sear is damaged, the bolt catch may be worn also. Hyperframes have been noted to increase bolt/sear wear. Check that the sear tip is sharp and flat (not curved at the tip).Comment
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I only used the hyperframe for a day. Well, actually half a day. I had just installed it when the stupid 'event' happened. The sear has a nice sharp ball catch and the sear doesn't appear damaged, no bends or anything.
I have my original sear still. Its a little worn but it was still working when I replaced it; I'm gonna have one of the guys in the shop at work see if they can add a little thickness to the on/off contact point on the spare sear.Comment
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Maybe try adding like 3 washers under the back screw, it might still be doing the same thing.Comment
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Yea get that valve tightened down on there. You could also buy a shorter 10-32 cap head screw or grind down the field strip screw instead of having a bunch of washers on there.Originally posted by angrysasquatchComment
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1 washer seemed to get the valve very tight. I tried 2 and 3 washers as well, but didn't improve over and beyond 1 washer.
Without washers, the wiggle is very subtle, and had not caused any trouble with the stock on/off. Understandably, the ON/off pin has changed so thats why I've had this problem. But the valve is as tight as its going to get.
Is it safe to assume that the 68 classic body and rail are thicker than some of the more recent makes? ULE, E, etc.?Comment
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No, but the PIM (where the grip frame screws into the body) can be a bit different. Your body may not be sitting down tight on the rail due to the PIM bottoming out. If it is bottoming out, file it down a bit.Originally posted by cadamsExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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check for deformation of the body where the on/off passes through, both on the inside and the outside.Comment
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Hey All,
1st just want to thank everyone for their input so far. Its been a great help.
The body and rail are smooth and generally ok. The frame screw is holding the body snug and tight, and with 2 washers under the feild strip screw, the valve is locked in tight.
I have finally had time to really explore the problem. I'm getting rapid firing, I think, because the sear is not catching the bolt properly. After I pull the trigger, the sear does not return quite all the way.
I ran my tank down to just below 800 psi so I've stopped for the night. Instead of rapid firing I'm getting mostly bolt stick now. Will get a refill in the AM and try some more. But my best guess is that the on/off pin is too short and is not pushing the sear down far enough after the shot.
I had tried dropping a few shims into the on/off hole on the valve, then installing the ULT on top of them. My thinking is that this will drop the whole on/off assembly and, while it doesn't lengthen the pin, wouldn't this help close the gap between the sear and the pin? Well, I added 3 shims by this method and noticed no difference. I can't add too many more of the whole ULT will protrude from the valve. But am I on the right track, or just tired?
I'm low on air so I'll refill and try again. But its starting to look like I'm sol because the pin is too short.
Anyone got a nice long pin for the stock Xvalve on/off or a RT on/off with a longer pin that they wanna sell?Comment
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