Rapidfire, ULT w NO shims

[Spider-TW]

I have the original rear screw that came with the 68 Classic, and I do recall that while the valve is secure, it can wiggle a tiny bit. I'll add a washer and tighen the fit a little bit.

Additionally, if I were able to somehow increase the height of the sear, where it contacts the ULT pin, do you think that would help? I have the original sear that came with the hyperframe and it has a different shape. It sits way too high in the frame now, but maybe some modification of that sear will allow me to close the gap between the ULT and sear, that is if any of you think it will help?

What happened to the sear that came with the x-valve?

You could try epoxying a small piece of brass on to the tip of the sear where it hits the on/off pin. I don't know long it would last though.

Or try a couple pieces of brass shim under each side of the sear pin in the rail.

I have a classic body that I had hell getting a Doc's barrel adapter installed in. It was about .998 bore and the adapter was .999. Getting all that stainless to fit was tough. Doc said that was the smallest bore he had heard of (4xxx serial number). Your body may just be thick.

[cadams]

I'm presently using the Xvalve sear.

One of the guys in the shop at work offered to weld more material on the sear and then grind it down. He thinks it should be pretty durable, its just alot of trial and error grinding it back down to the proper height.

I think when I do that, given that I'll have an excessivly long sear on/off contact point, that I'll put half a dozen shims in the ULT before I start grinding down the sear to fit.

[Hilltop Customs]

Hey All,

1st just want to thank everyone for their input so far. Its been a great help.

The body and rail are smooth and generally ok. The frame screw is holding the body snug and tight, and with 2 washers under the feild strip screw, the valve is locked in tight.

I have finally had time to really explore the problem. I'm getting rapid firing, I think, because the sear is not catching the bolt properly. After I pull the trigger, the sear does not return quite all the way.

I ran my tank down to just below 800 psi so I've stopped for the night. Instead of rapid firing I'm getting mostly bolt stick now. Will get a refill in the AM and try some more. But my best guess is that the on/off pin is too short and is not pushing the sear down far enough after the shot.

I had tried dropping a few shims into the on/off hole on the valve, then installing the ULT on top of them. My thinking is that this will drop the whole on/off assembly and, while it doesn't lengthen the pin, wouldn't this help close the gap between the sear and the pin? Well, I added 3 shims by this method and noticed no difference. I can't add too many more of the whole ULT will protrude from the valve. But am I on the right track, or just tired?

I'm low on air so I'll refill and try again. But its starting to look like I'm sol because the pin is too short.

Anyone got a nice long pin for the stock Xvalve on/off or a RT on/off with a longer pin that they wanna sell?

Are you still having the problem of holding the trigger in and the marker going full auto?

When you gas up the on/off gets pushed out against the inside of the body, so adding spacers above the on/off will have no effect. Putting spacers in between the ULT halves spaces the top up higher, which adjusts the timing between the bolt being caught and the on/off allowing the dump chamber to pressurize.

[Spider-TW]

I thought this was already covered, but...

Do you still have a little gap (not a big one) between the back of the trigger and the trigger rod?