Funny thing happened today. Any clues?

[mpsd]

It Works!!!!

OK! We are back in business!!! It WORKS!!!!!!!!!!

Now, the only problem is a small leak down the barrel. I've added two ULT shims inside my power tube trying to soften the bolt so it's probably that. I just got lazy to remove them now and see what happens.

Anyways, just to clarify things a little bit. I took the 32 Degrees frame out and put a CF frame from my RT Classic. It wasn't shooting at all again so I thought I should do it right and stop being lazy so I disassembled my pump mag, took it's frame off and installed it on this Mag (changing the sear as well). Same thing. Fast shooting all the time... So then I realized it shoiuldn't be a frame problem after-all (which made me happy since I've bought another frame just like that). So I assembled back the 32 Degrees frame and decided to look at my on/off again. Found that I was using a .700 on/off pin and so I've installed another .750 pin I had laying around. Then I looked at the sear again and ajusted it to have the "credit card" space between it's tip and the trigger and, guess what? It works!!

Now, thanks guys. This is being a huge PITA for me but still I'm learning a lot. And I feel confident with your support during this proccess. If everything goes all right I should have it done by tomorrow night.

More info to come.

[athomas]

Now, the only problem is a small leak down the barrel. I've added two ULT shims inside my power tube trying to soften the bolt so it's probably that.

Shims in the powertube don't soften the bolt. Only the bolt springs adjust the bolt force. Shims only adjust how far the bolt needs to move before it can vent air to reset. Too many shims can expose the vent hole and cause a leak down the barrel while at rest.

[Ruler_Mark]

OK! We are back in business!!! It WORKS!!!!!!!!!!

Now, the only problem is a small leak down the barrel. I've added two ULT shims inside my power tube trying to soften the bolt so it's probably that. I just got lazy to remove them now and see what happens.

Anyways, just to clarify things a little bit. I took the 32 Degrees frame out and put a CF frame from my RT Classic. It wasn't shooting at all again so I thought I should do it right and stop being lazy so I disassembled my pump mag, took it's frame off and installed it on this Mag (changing the sear as well). Same thing. Fast shooting all the time... So then I realized it shoiuldn't be a frame problem after-all (which made me happy since I've bought another frame just like that). So I assembled back the 32 Degrees frame and decided to look at my on/off again. Found that I was using a .700 on/off pin and so I've installed another .750 pin I had laying around. Then I looked at the sear again and ajusted it to have the "credit card" space between it's tip and the trigger and, guess what? It works!!

Now, thanks guys. This is being a huge PITA for me but still I'm learning a lot. And I feel confident with your support during this proccess. If everything goes all right I should have it done by tomorrow night.

More info to come.

you finally check the on/off length..

[mpsd]

you finally check the on/off length..

Yeah... The caliper was here at the office so that's why it took so long.

Tonight I'll try removing the shims and changing the sping on the Level 10. Problem is that my tank seal blew at 3 AM (just imagine getting waked with that huge BANG in the middle of the night - and it was in the other room). So, I'll have to go back with the inline Max Flo with the 1100 psi on it. But it should work too.

[secretweaponevan]

Tonight I'll try removing the shims and changing the sping on the Level 10.

If you are experiencing a leak while the trigger is at rest, you need to:
1. Remove all shims (ONLY use shims if you experience bolt stick)
2. Add oil.
3. Use a smaller carrier (use the same carrier (white) o-ring) until you find the largest one that does not leak. That will then be the carrier you will use with that bolt until your carrier o-ring wears out (many, many, many thousands of shots).

[mpsd]

Thanks! I'll have to do it tomorrow or thursday. Found a local store that carries the 1800 psi burts disk that broke so will do it after having it installed.

This hint on how to tune the Level 10 will be specially usefull when I install the Level 10 bolt I just got for my Classic RT.

[secretweaponevan]

Thanks! I'll have to do it tomorrow or thursday. Found a local store that carries the 1800 psi burts disk that broke so will do it after having it installed.

This hint on how to tune the Level 10 will be specially usefull when I install the Level 10 bolt I just got for my Classic RT.

LOL. By putting 2 ULT shims (equivalent to 1 lvl 10 shim) in your powertube, I assumed that you were running a LVL 10.

For powertube leaks, you either need a new powertube o-ring, more oil, or a longer spacer (or replace the uber-old powertube spring with a spacer kit).

[mpsd]

LOL. By putting 2 ULT shims (equivalent to 1 lvl 10 shim) in your powertube, I assumed that you were running a LVL 10.

For powertube leaks, you either need a new powertube o-ring, more oil, or a longer spacer (or replace the uber-old powertube spring with a spacer kit).

I do have a Level 10 in this marker. The Classic RT I spoke about on my last post is another one...



It now has a single trigger Benchmark frame, by the way.

[athomas]

1. Remove all shims (ONLY use shims if you experience bolt stick)

To expand on this one, only use shims if you get bolt stick due to the bolt not venting. If the bolt vents air, then shims won't help. Shims are installed to shorten the distance that the bolt needs to travel to allow it to vent if there is a breach blockage. Personally, I wouldn't install shims unless it becomes a problem. Usually, even if there is a breach blockage, the bolt will move far enough to vent air. It generally only needs to move about 0.030" (the thickness of three shims) which is pretty small.

[marked74]

(slight sidetrack) - mpsd is that RT000023? That's younger than mine! Mine's 58 - and I thought I was cool

[secretweaponevan]

(slight sidetrack) - mpsd is that RT000023? That's younger than mine! Mine's 58 - and I thought I was cool

Looks like RT00923, but I'm myopic.

[mpsd]

I really don't remember it... I think it's a higher number. I'll confirm it when I get home later tonight.

[mpsd]

Looks like RT00923, but I'm myopic.

I'm home and yes, you are right. It's the RT00923.

[mpsd]

Level 10 problems

So... back into the Mag now that I've bought and installed the replacement for the broken tank seal.

I took off the shims I have added previously. After that, I tryed changing the spring. Installed the red (middle size) one and tryed to fire the gun. Wouldn't shoot. Got the valve off again and changed the spring for a Level 7 (newer than the previous I had when I started tuning this valve). The gun shoots well and consistently.

So, there I went to the last test. The Level 10 purpose. Put a squeegee in front of the bolt, pushed the trigger and guess what? The bolt travels until it touches the squeegee and stops right there. The valve then leaks and I had to push the bolt backwards until it closes again. Shoot again with the squeegee. Same thing, all over.

So then I just gave it up and tryed to fire some 5 or 10 times in semi, with nothing blocking the bolt. On the second or third shot, the bolt stops ahead of it's resting place and the valve vents again. I reset it manually, started firing again and same thing happens.

Should I change the Level 10 carrier for a less restrictive one? I have two full sets of sizers here so it won't be a problem doing so.

This one is being really hard...

Thanks.

[mostpeople]

Well MPSD, whenever I have issues tuning the lvl 10 I like to start from scratch, so I would reccomend the same for you - I'll outline my procedure:

First, take the valve out and check the gun, make sure the sear is in correct form, correct location, there is nothing in the way and it moves freely.

Second, take out the on off, make sure the pin is the right length, clean it up nice and check all O-rings, and drop some oil on that bad boy (on the pin too and slide it up and down to get it worked in there) and set it aside.

Take the bolt off and clean it up real good. Clean all the carbon gunk or whatever it is off, clean the spring and set aside.

Take off the powertube tip, and get all those parts out of there, plastic washer, shims, carrier, all of it. Clean it all, check O-rings and set aside. Next I usually crack open the valve, and visually inspect the interior, I take good care of my valves as Im sure you do so there shouldnt be anything wrong in there. Screw it back together.

Get out your carriers, and re-assemble your powertube with the largest carrier no shims. Put on the bolt and spring (making sure to oil between the bolt and the powertube), put back in the gun and air it up. 5 Bucks says it leaks! Take the carrier out and put in the next smallest one, no shims. Air it up and check for leaks. Repeat this process until the gun does not leak. Then add 1 shim, if it doesnt leak add another until it does - and take that last one out.

This is what I do, and its worked pretty well for me so far. Hopefully it will help you - the big thing to remember is with a gun you're having issues with, stat from scratch, because you might have missed something obvious before.

Good luck!