Funny thing happened today. Any clues?

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  • mpsd
    Crazy Brazilian P8Baller

    • Nov 2005
    • 2778

    #31
    Originally posted by mostpeople
    Well MPSD, whenever I have issues tuning the lvl 10 I like to start from scratch, so I would reccomend the same for you - I'll outline my procedure:

    First, take the valve out and check the gun, make sure the sear is in correct form, correct location, there is nothing in the way and it moves freely.

    Second, take out the on off, make sure the pin is the right length, clean it up nice and check all O-rings, and drop some oil on that bad boy (on the pin too and slide it up and down to get it worked in there) and set it aside.

    Take the bolt off and clean it up real good. Clean all the carbon gunk or whatever it is off, clean the spring and set aside.

    Take off the powertube tip, and get all those parts out of there, plastic washer, shims, carrier, all of it. Clean it all, check O-rings and set aside. Next I usually crack open the valve, and visually inspect the interior, I take good care of my valves as Im sure you do so there shouldnt be anything wrong in there. Screw it back together.

    Get out your carriers, and re-assemble your powertube with the largest carrier no shims. Put on the bolt and spring (making sure to oil between the bolt and the powertube), put back in the gun and air it up. 5 Bucks says it leaks! Take the carrier out and put in the next smallest one, no shims. Air it up and check for leaks. Repeat this process until the gun does not leak. Then add 1 shim, if it doesnt leak add another until it does - and take that last one out.

    This is what I do, and its worked pretty well for me so far. Hopefully it will help you - the big thing to remember is with a gun you're having issues with, stat from scratch, because you might have missed something obvious before.

    Good luck!

    Thanks! I got this valve recently and put it inside the gun and tryed using it. I'll probably have to do this. Only problem is that this tank I have isn't good since when I turn it off it doesn't bleed. I bought two screw in tanks that are on my way and I have an on/off with bleed so probably the best thing to do is wait until one of the tanks arrive and then do it.

    Thanks for all the hints. I hope to be able to have it up soon.

    Only thing you didn't explain is about the spring. How do you choose which one to use? And how do I guarantee I'll have the softer possible bolt?


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    • mostpeople
      Registered User
      • Mar 2007
      • 1680

      #32
      Originally posted by mpsd
      Thanks! I got this valve recently and put it inside the gun and tryed using it. I'll probably have to do this. Only problem is that this tank I have isn't good since when I turn it off it doesn't bleed. I bought two screw in tanks that are on my way and I have an on/off with bleed so probably the best thing to do is wait until one of the tanks arrive and then do it.

      Thanks for all the hints. I hope to be able to have it up soon.

      Only thing you didn't explain is about the spring. How do you choose which one to use? And how do I guarantee I'll have the softer possible bolt?


      The spring is really easy, it affects a few things, and you need to make a personal judgement.

      The gold spring is the hardest spring, it has the most resistance, therefore it will be the softest on paint. However your velocity *could* suffer. It has been my experience that this is not the case, and to have the softest possible bolt, you need the gold spring.

      The red is the 2nd stiffest, therefore it will be harder on the paint.. Im sure someone here knows the benefit to the red spring, I just cant think of it right now? And the other spring is of course the hardest on the paint, maybe there is an advantage to it I honestly for the life of me cant remember.

      I use the gold spring always, and I use FPS in the 280-300 range.

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      • athomas
        Of course it works-its AGD
        • Jan 2002
        • 8039

        #33
        The gold spring is the hardest on paint. The red is the middle spring and is usually the one that offers the best overall operation. The long grey spring is softest on paint, but may not allow the gun to cycle while set to the velocity you want to use.

        Whenever using a stiffer spring, you have to increase the velocity setting to get the gun to shoot. You need more pressure to overcome the stiffer spring.

        If the gun is firing but the bolt is sticking forward and venting, then your carrier size is too small. You need to use a larger carrier. Always use the same white powertube oring when changing carrier sizes.
        Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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        • mostpeople
          Registered User
          • Mar 2007
          • 1680

          #34
          Originally posted by athomas
          The gold spring is the hardest on paint. The red is the middle spring and is usually the one that offers the best overall operation. The long grey spring is softest on paint, but may not allow the gun to cycle while set to the velocity you want to use.

          Whenever using a stiffer spring, you have to increase the velocity setting to get the gun to shoot. You need more pressure to overcome the stiffer spring.

          If the gun is firing but the bolt is sticking forward and venting, then your carrier size is too small. You need to use a larger carrier. Always use the same white powertube oring when changing carrier sizes.

          there you go..

          thanks athomas

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