Another Emag woes thread

[BigEvil]

Set the Dwell to 30 and go from there. IF it works, Lower it until it stops. Go up a few more so it works reliably.

[Tunaman]

You silly kids. 16.11 volts? Thats no good at all. Over 18 is good. Check the charger output. Replace the battery if it isn't 18+ volts after a full charge.

[KevinA]

OK, I'll try all those (after I get a full charge ) and let everyone know what the outcome is. Thanks again for the help, please keep the advice coming.

[KevinA]

OK, I changed the dwell up to 30, it would fire in Emode, but it was firing a burst, I had it in Semi. Is there a way to reset the board (Predator Mini Morlock) to a factory setting? Every time I tried to bring the dwell down a bit more to see if it would fire right more consistently, and it kept registering before I would finish putting it where I wanted it. I was reading on a website Automags UK, and it said that if the gun didn't register a trigger pull when you touch the trigger side to side, that the HES wasn't registering right? Could this be right even if it still registers the pull? Could that be why it is going reactive, and firing in a burst instead of semi?

**Edit** I put the battery to charge, and it registered a full charge (according to the green light) after about 30 minutes charging? The battery never got hot though, sounds like the charger? Even a bad battery would get hot right?

[athomas]

...it fires from hitting the sear rod, and not from the solenoid.

... The really weird thing is this, when there is no air on the marker, in Emode, I can't get the solenoid to click, if I take the rail off, and take the sear mount pin out, and lift up on the sear, the solenoid will click, and bring the sear back down, but I have to lift it up again. Any ideas?

...I guess I should have mentioned that I have a mini Morlock board installed, and it has the 5.0 software. thanks for any help in advance.

Kevin

You need to properly setup your trigger before you go any further. Adjust your electronic trigger stop to give you the proper trigger movement when set to e-mode. Then adjust your HES trigger magnet to activate the HES at the proper position during the trigger pull in e-mode. Once that is done, the mag should fire in emode, or at least activate the input. Now you can adjust the manual mode. The trigger rod should be adjusted so that it does not touch the back of the trigger while the trigger is held against the e-mode trigger stop. The gun should now be able to fire while in mech mode with the battery off.

There is no return spring on the solenoid, so to get a solenoid click, you have to manually return the solenoid if you are firing the gun without air. I usually take the valve off and hold something on the back of the sear while firing the gun.

If you are getting multiple shots per electronic trigger pull, check that the trigger rod is not hitting the back of the trigger while in emode. Once that is corrected, if multiple shots still occurs, reverse the polarity of the solenoid. The collapsing magnetic field can cause a false activation if the trigger magnet is at the correct spacing to enable this.

Also, check the condition of the sear tip. If it is worn, it could be misfiring.

[flyingpootang]

Athomas has got it correct. You can use a compass with either west or east pointing to the bottom of the noid. When fired the compass should move to south. Also check your debounce and mechanical trigger bounce is high enough. With a properly set up trigger I use debounce 2 and MTB 1. For dwell I'm using 14...

[KevinA]

OK, I'll work on the trigger, just so happens that I happen to have every allen key except the one needed for the magnet set screws. Any thoughts on the battery not getting hot while on the charger? Even a bad battery would get hot right? I figured about the solenoid from a little more in depth reading, it seems to fire perfectly fine when I put pressure on the back of the sear (in Emode). Any ideas on how to reset the board to factory settings? Also, does having a board other than the stock AGD board get rid of Hybrid mode?

[athomas]

Hybrid mode is just a feature of the gun that allows both the electronic activation and the mechanical operation at the same time. It essentially gives an electronic activation with mechanical kick-back. To do this all you are doing is removing the electronic trigger stop which allows the trigger pull to go far enough to allow the trigger rod to hit the back of the trigger when the valve resets.

[athomas]

Any thoughts on the battery not getting hot while on the charger? Even a bad battery would get hot right?

Bad connections can cause this. If the battery or charger has bad connections, the battery could appear charged when it is not. Clean the battery connections and make sure the spring loaded clips make good contact.

[KevinA]

I tried cleaning the connections, I even ran alligator clips from the positive and negative on the charger, to the positive and negative on the battery. I ordered a new charger, and battery, so if it was that, then that should solve all my problems... (I hope) I can't evne get te marker to fire now, it seems like the on off pin is not contacting the sear, so the solenoid isn't being pulled down when it registers a pull, could it be I have the field strip screw too loose? I know the on/off pin is .714.

[athomas]

The weakened battery could cause a problem. Also, make sure your solenoid plunger rod is long enough. If it is too long, the solenoid won't have enough power to pull it in when fired, especially with a weakened battery.

[KevinA]

I know that the solenoid plunger is good according to the measurements given in the stickies, I'll just be waiting for the battery and charger then, and go from there.