So I threw an RT Pro on/off in my Classic so it'd recharge fast enough for my G-Force frame. Instead it causes insane bounce. I'm able to hold down the trigger, keep the ram forward, and sweetspot the gun. However cool this may sound, it isn't allowing me to shoot in semi. I don't have the stock classic on/off. Is it the on/off doing this? I'm only putting about 800psi in there honestly. WTF is going on!!!
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try changing the on/off orings -
They are brand new. I'm considering ordering a stock classic on/off.Originally posted by CoralisComment
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Originally posted by warbeak2099
Doesn't matter what your input pressure is. Classics send reglated (via the A.I.R) air to the on/off pin.
Because of the shape of the RT on/off pin, it will return with more force than it took to push it in.
You will need to move to a classic on/off pin to stop the full auto or just up your LPR pressure to keep the RT on/off in the "off" position.Comment
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OMFG I DONT HAVE THE TOP ON/OFF O-RING IN IT LOL. I'm an idiot. Where do I get this o-ring? It's the second bigger one, not the little white one. I have the little white one, I need the other one that goes around it.Comment
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Originally posted by warbeak2099
LOL. The classic on/off top outer o-ring is the same as the powertube o-ring.
Good luck.Comment
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Yay I was hoping that was the case lol!Originally posted by secretweaponevan
LOL. The classic on/off top outer o-ring is the same as the powertube o-ring.
Good luck.Comment
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go back to all Classic On off components the classic valve didnt really preform as it should with any other on off, on off pin or other modified onoff componentsEuro E-mag | TL63 | XMOD| EM01610
Euro Rt | OG | RT02382.Comment
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I know other people have used an RTP on/off successfully so I'm going to see if I can fix this with the top o-ring.Originally posted by AGDloverComment
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Having all the orings should help a lot.
I have an RT on/off in my classic pneu that has been subjected to many experiments, including pin changes from .750 to .723 and .712, quad orings, and top and sides drilled out. It hasn't done anything unusual yet.Comment
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What do you find the best setup to be? Or do you suggest grabbing a bunch of pins and o-rings and fiddling with it. I'm a tinkering maniac so don't be afraid to tell me to grab a pile of parts and sit with it for 5 hours swapping things around lol.Originally posted by Spider-TWHaving all the orings should help a lot.
I have an RT on/off in my classic pneu that has been subjected to many experiments, including pin changes from .750 to .723 and .712, quad orings, and top and sides drilled out. It hasn't done anything unusual yet.Comment
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Right now I have the quad oring with the .723 pin, which provides a lot of lockup on the sear before the on/off opens. The drill out of the top (.125 on the sides and .16(2?) on the very top, like the electrician did) helped some minor shootdown with the .723 pin.Originally posted by warbeak2099
It actually worked with the .712 pin and the stock oring and was very fast; my son could regularly out shoot the eggy 2 loader on there. However, I was seeing some dents in the edge of my level 10 bolt, so I started working back. Longer lockup did not eliminate all the dents though and I suspect my problem may be that I was using a blue bumper on the level 10 and the bolt was bouncing off the valve body too hard.
With the .750 pin and the quad oring, it would barely shoot; the on/off wouldn't open enough and you had to wait a few seconds between shots.
I'm going to run the .723 pin with the quad and the clear bumper for while to see if the denting has stopped. If it does, I will go back and try the .712. We never noticed any shootdown with the .712 pin and it ran ropes out of the classic valve.Comment
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I got the chance to put a few hundred rounds through my pneu yesterday. I had decided to go back to the .712 pin. With the clear bumper and the short pin (with the quad oring) it worked perfectly. No dents in the bolt. I think the .712 lets me go faster and just made the dents occur more often because of the blue bumper. I think the hard bumper made the level 10 rebound too hard and hit the sear too hard. The level 10 is too light for the blue bumper. For some reason I had the bumpers associated with valves, not bolts.
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