Sounds exactly like when my carrier o ring was too tight. Air up your gun again and try putting your finger down the feed neck to push the bolt back. If you can push it back and it works for one shot, then you need to go up one size on your carrier (Or maybe just run some oil through the ASA)
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I'm in the same boat you are in. Marker was gassed up and when i pulled the trigger.....nothing. Constant pressure against the trigger but it wouldn't fire. I just replaced the carrier o-ring and added 1 shim (2 all together) and now i'm able to fire the gun, although it sounds like it's leaking pretty bad down the barrel (hopefully the o-ring has to be worked in).
I'm far from done but atleast i can fire the gun. Now i need to get more air so i can keep working on it.....Frustrating!
I think mine is one of the older style valves (it says "X-Valve" on it instead of just 1 big "X") so maybe it needs an O-ring overhaul.Comment
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Nope I have the lvl X tuned quite well. This guy at PB nation says that he thinks its my lack of the bolt bumper... he says that the bolt needs to be pushed forward slightly for the sear to engage it. He says he has had the exact same problem before... I am quite sure it's not a lvl X problem because i have spent like 3 hours messing with it and it has never shot once, even when I had it loose and leaking.
I will be getting a bumper hopefully tomorrow or MondayComment
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No, the bumper does not hold the bolt forward. While it is true that the bolt needs to be pushed forward for the sear to engage it, it is the air pressure behind the bolt that does it.
The bumper is just, well, a bumper. It prevents the bolt from obliterating the powertube o-ring from being smashed into it by the return spring. It won't affect the valve's firing, only it would wear out the pt o-ring really fast without it.
If you do not have o-rings in the valve above the on/off, that means that the pin is not doing it's job of shutting the air-flow off when the trigger is pulled.
You should have a pair of o-rings in there, one seats into the other.
It is important to know how the valve works so that it can be diagnosed. When the valve airs up, it first goes to the top of the on/off. If you allow it (by letting the trigger loose) the air pushed the on/off pin down and then passes through the on/off to fill the powertube, dump chamber, and regulator. This also pushes the sear down which engages the bolt. At this point, the only thing holding in the air pressure is the bolt itself.
When you pull the trigger, the sear rocks which does two things: 1) it lifts the on/off pin which seals off the powertube, reg, and dump chamber from the air source so that no more air enters the system and 2) it lets go of the bolt and the air in the reg, powertube, and dump chamber rushes out pushing the bolt forward and firing the marker.
When no more air pressure is behind the bolt, the spring can return the bolt to it's resting position and when you let go of the trigger, the bolt is caught and held by the sear, and the on/off pin is dropped which allows the valve to pressurize again.
So if any of these things cannot happen it means the valve will not fire. It has to be something in the bolt/powetube or on/off assembly. Since the level 10, you say, is tuned well then it has to be the on/off and since you say you are missing o-rings that is definitely the problem.
Get those replaced and see how the marker fires then
Break your valve down, and lay everything out on a table (or better yet, the floor. Things can't fall off the floor) how it is in the picture. Then go from one end to the other and make sure everything is there. If anything looks different or is missing then change it or get it and start over.
Begin with what is obvious though, get those on/off o-rings in the valve, then get a bumper.Last edited by Watcher; 11-23-2008, 08:33 PM.Comment
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The ULT does not use the two orings on top of the on/off. It has one captured in its own brass top. This is why ULTs don't fit in old RT valves that used a single on/off oring; the ULT uses the space that would be occupied by both of the top orings.Originally posted by Watcher
Do you still have a rail bushing? It's the sleeve for the thumbscrew and runs between the frame and the rail. They can fall out and cause problems. Without air on the marker and the thumbscrew loosened, the valve should move not more than about half a millimeter.
You really should have a clear bumper under the bolt before you shoot it. I've never tried it, but I have noticed differences in wear from the clear bumper to the blue bumper on level 10 bolts and letting the bolt hammer the valve body is no good. Don't shoot it without a bolt spring either. From some other posts, it makes an unpleasant sound and can knock the bolt stop ring out of the body.Comment
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Sorry, was on a cruise for a week.
om3n, please do an isolated on/off test and let us know your findings.
Start with taking the bolt out, reassemble, then hold trigger, gas up and see if gas leaks out the barrel.
If it doesn't..
Then release the trigger and see gas if rushes out the barrel.
Then pull and hold the trigger and see if it stops again.
It will be a good starting point.
Edit: This still sounds like a low velocity problem. Are BOTH springs inside the reg half???Last edited by secretweaponevan; 11-24-2008, 09:26 AM.Comment
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Oops. Sorry about that.Originally posted by Spider-TW
Forgot it was particular to valves
Yeah, disregard that...
Hmm, rail bushing sounds like it could be the (or one of the) problem(s)...Comment
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His non-stock feedneck was screwed in so far that it wouldn't let the bolt move forward.
At least now you can enjoy your tac and got to learn it at the same time!
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I guess he tightened it when he went to test...
Looks like he still needs a CCM or such.
I noticed something this week that reminds me of the problems with frame screw tension - my old tac rail was being difficult taking a twist-lock assembly. The assembly was keeping the body from lying flat. I can see that really messing up alignment.Comment
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Well, I'm glad the issue is solved.
Lol, that's really odd that the feedneck was protruding. I'd probably just mark it, then file the bottom off with a curved file or something.Comment
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I've read about one like that before, but just one. Never saw if it was a manufacturing or installation problem. I would believe either one. :)Comment
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