Newly duracoated automag dosent recock!!!!!!!

[JLag-2/69]

I just got my Mag back from getting duracoated and now I cant get the marker to re-cock all the way. I can fire like 10-15 good shots with it but then it wont fire despite the fact the bolt goes all the way back. I have to then put my finger in the feedneck and wiggle a little to get it to reset the on/0ff. There are no leaks though. Also, ran into problems pulling the Xvalve out of the body, it was stuck and I couldnt figure out why so I had to take all the screws out to find the on/off was sticking out catching the body through the on/off opening so it wouldnt slide like it is supposed to. It has never done that before!

I havent used the mag in about 15 months because I was deployed...but when I packed it up it worked PERFECTLY so I am 99% sure it isnt because of that.! I Lubed the heck out of it (7-10 drops in the asa, pulled out the ULT and lubed the orings and on/off) so I am at a loss. Could it be the Duracot changing the distance between the sear and the on/off because of the slight tolerance growth it gets when applying? Or worse could it be the duracot in the body binding the bolt?!?! I would think if it was that it would fire at all but who knows?

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[JLag-2/69]

Forgot to mention I tried playing with the screw tension on the frame and thumb screw, but all I do is snug them both a little, nothing crazy, so I am sure it isnt that.

[michbich]

When the valve is stuck, pull the trigger. When pulling the trigger, you end up pushing the on-off pin upwards.

Have pics of the marker? Was the bottom part of the body coated? What kind of shape is your sear and bolt? When the spring is on the bolt, is the spring longer? Do you have the rail bushin installed?

[JLag-2/69]

Even despite pulling the trigger, the on/off will still stick out...weird isnt it. I dont have any pics yet...but working on it and will have some up tomorrow. Yes the bottom of the body and top of the rail was duracoated. The sear and bolt are both brand new and havent seen more than a case of paint. The spring is longer than the bolt and worked flawlessly before it went into storage. Not sure what a rail bushin is, but maybe its a classic mag part. I have a RPG parriah body sitting on a DW dallara rail.

[JLag-2/69]

Ok, forgot the rail bushing is that copper piece that the strip screw goes into...yes I do have that on there and seems to be doing its job at aligning the rail and frame.

[Watcher]

I don't think that the duracoat would add enough mass to make the on/off pin not reach all the way. However, that is a possability. If that is the case then you can just get a longer pin from AGD.

But the fact that you said you wiggled the bolt and it reset leads me to think they oversprayed the duracoat into the mainbody.

Or if they did the rail too, they may have gotten into the sear slot and it could be binding the sear. Which is another possability.

[JLag-2/69]

I looked over the inside of the mainbody and there is small amounts inside of it...but it dosent seem to be enough to make the bolt bind. Only place it really has any is on the inside of were the slit is for the sear to reach in the body and catch the bolt after it fires. The sear also seems to have PLENTY of wiggle room inside the rail so I do not believe it can be those issues.

[JLag-2/69]

Here are some pics of the Mag...

http://s363.photobucket.com/albums/oo74/falcon7j/?action=view&current=Automag1001.jpg

http://s363.photobucket.com/albums/oo74/falcon7j/?action=view&current=Automag1003.jpg

http://s363.photobucket.com/albums/oo74/falcon7j/?action=view&current=Automag1002.jpg

[mostpeople]

AGD markers, like AKA markers, are ALL about tolerances. A tenth of an inch believe it or not can screw the markers up.

When you pull the trigger, the on off pin should recess upward all the way into the on/off assembly so you can pull the valve out. If it doesn't, something is wrong. How many shims do you have in the ULT?

Duracoat is thick, my guess is that the tolerances were messed up when the coat was applied, and this is why you are having issues.

Solving it will be tough, a longer pin will not solve your problem, only make it worse I imagine. To solve it though, I would start by figuring out why you can't recess the pin all the way.

[JLag-2/69]

I have 4 shims in my ULT...I didnt get to try adding or subtracting because I ran out of air while trouble shooting and getting to wear I am now. Could adding or subtracting shims correct this problem?

[jrod]

Are you willing to sand or file away the mating surfaces? Maybe that will help. Sweet looking Mag by the way.

EDIT: I didn't see you last post. The ULT shims essentially change the length of the pin. However, the procedure for tuning the ULT is to add shims until you get full auto, and then take one away. Maybe try starting with no shims and then adding one at a time.

[JLag-2/69]

Hmmmm...just came up with a hypothesis.....lets say that by duracoating my Mag it added say 1 shim of thickness to all parts and seperated the rail from the body by a total of 2 shims because of their combined thickness. Would simply removing say 2 shims from the ULT to compensate for the Hypothetical 2 shim thickness now being experienced extend the on/off more and in turn making so the sear now can strike the On/off and reset it back in instead of leaving it partially exposed...what seems to me to be a "bad hit" from the sear.

Any logic here or am I not understanding the purpose of the ULT shims correctly?

[TwilightG]

I'm sure you already tried this, but how about backing-out your trigger stop a little?

[flyingpootang]

Hmmmm...just came up with a hypothesis.....lets say that by duracoating my Mag it added say 1 shim of thickness to all parts and seperated the rail from the body by a total of 2 shims because of their combined thickness. Would simply removing say 2 shims from the ULT to compensate for the Hypothetical 2 shim thickness now being experienced extend the on/off more and in turn making so the sear now can strike the On/off and reset it back in instead of leaving it partially exposed...what seems to me to be a "bad hit" from the sear.

Any logic here or am I not understanding the purpose of the ULT shims correctly?

I would try it. the Duracoat is definitely the problem. I would use some lacquer thinner and remove the Duracoat from inside of the body. I Duracoated my Sydarm and had no problem...

[michbich]

If you have access to other mag parts, try interchanging them to pin-point where your problem lies. After knowing what part(s) are causing the problem, it will be easier to figure out what is going on.