..Air America Apocalypse...

[Shane-O-Mac]

Cool. I actually went ahead last night and removed the piston (without reading your reply first though). The o-ring was dry and there was some oil stains on the piston and inside the bore. I wiped this off with paintball oil and lubricated the o-ring slightly, not nearly 3 drops of oil though, since I put less than a drop of oil on my finger and then applied that to the o-ring [EDIT] (I thought using too much oil can cause combustion, which is why I'm so carefull) [/EDIT]. Checked the pin and its not bent at all, 100% by the look of it.

2-3 drops on that part is fine, there isnt high enough of a pressure and the heat needed for combustion. Just pressurizing the oil will not make it combust, you still need and ignition source.

Anyway, after this I reassembled the front and worked the pressure up from 600psi. At around 1000psi the trigger had a fair bit of kickback (more than before), but not enough to rapid fire yet. Then I incremented it slowly up to about 1200 psi, at which point my mag went into a slow rapid fire (like 8bps or something), but then it got weird.

After about two seconds of sustained fire the output guage jumped from just below 1200psi up to about 1500psi and it started venting from the front. I backed off the pressure by screwing the adjuster nut out slightly and did the process all over again.

Second time around the same thing happened, as soon as there was enough reactivity for rapid fire the guage jumped up from just below 1200psi up to 1500psi, so I backed it down again, degassed and left it until I got some feedback from you again.

Yup sounds like it needs a seat and reg pin. Even though it looks unbent, the pin may still have some kink in it. That tiny little spring behind the pin isnt important to replace, it just keeps the reg pin located properly. When you replace the seat, tighten the body halves together until the meet up flush. Also be very carefull with using teflon tape, it can easily unwind and get into the system causing havoc.

Now I'm thinking either I didn't use enough oil when I cleaned the piston last night, the o-ring may be damaged or may need to be "run in" after such a long time of not being used, or I need to replace the reg seat. What do you say? [EDIT] The adjuster nut didn't have to go in as far as before to reach 1200psi, only about half way, where before it was more like two thirds of the way in. [/EDIT]

Also, do you have pictures or a diagram of what the internals look like? I would like to verify that everything is present and installed correctly. [EDIT] Also also, how do I remove the on/off after the tank is empty? I want to check those o-rings and massage them with oil a bit, since it's the only part of the reg I haven't been able to get to. [/EDIT]

The on/off will always be stiff, your fighting 3000psi of pressure to move it. With the bottle empty, there is a tiny screw in the side that holds the on/off assembly in the body. Remove that, slide it out and clean and lube that with white lithium grease or oil. Grease is best on that part.

[malJohann]

not sure if this will help you but I've found a pdf of the manual, it has an exploded diagram on page 5
http://info.paintball.ru/files/manuals/reg/apoc.pdf

Thanks. I have the manual and actually forgot it has an exploded view in it.

Yup sounds like it needs a seat and reg pin. Even though it looks unbent, the pin may still have some kink in it. That tiny little spring behind the pin isnt important to replace, it just keeps the reg pin located properly. When you replace the seat, tighten the body halves together until the meet up flush. Also be very carefull with using teflon tape, it can easily unwind and get into the system causing havoc.

Doh! Now I'll have to pay the mega expensive shipping to get the service kits. Oh well. Any idea whether I can buy a spring pack new or won't I ever need that? When I order it's going to be all at once. [EDIT] Oh, how many of each Rebuild Seal Set, Quick Kit and On/Off Kit would I need to keep my regulator running for say the next 10 years? Also, would the Regulator Seat 6 Pack be a good buy (how often would I need to replace seats)? http://www.iisports.com/product.asp?...&dept_id=12360 [/EDIT] What can I use instead of teflon tape? I do have some Loctite 242 at home, would that be fine?

The on/off will always be stiff, your fighting 3000psi of pressure to move it. With the bottle empty, there is a tiny screw in the side that holds the on/off assembly in the body. Remove that, slide it out and clean and lube that with white lithium grease or oil. Grease is best on that part.

Understood. When the bottle was empty I actually removed that screw and the on/off could rotate through 360 degrees, but would not slide out. Does it need to be in a specific position before it can slide out?

[Shane-O-Mac]

[QUOTE=malJohann]Thanks. I have the manual and actually forgot it has an exploded view in it.



Doh! Now I'll have to pay the mega expensive shipping to get the service kits. Oh well. Any idea whether I can buy a spring pack new or won't I ever need that? When I order it's going to be all at once. [EDIT] Oh, how many of each Rebuild Seal Set, Quick Kit and On/Off Kit would I need to keep my regulator running for say the next 10 years? Also, would the Regulator Seat 6 Pack be a good buy (how often would I need to replace seats)? http://www.iisports.com/product.asp?...&dept_id=12360 [/EDIT] What can I use instead of teflon tape? I do have some Loctite 242 at home, would that be fine? [?QUOTE]

The spring pack may or may not need changed. If the washers in it can easily wiggle from side to side, you could replace it. I would buy a 6 pack of seats and 2-3 rebuild kits with the o-rings. You shouldnt need to replace seats very often, only if you have dirty air fills will they go bad regularly. Look in those links I posted a awhile back, I think theres the exact instructions on how to use red loc-tite properly, and to all who says it shouldnt be done, thats what the factory used. Or just search my name and you will find I posted the method of using it many times. :)

Understood. When the bottle was empty I actually removed that screw and the on/off could rotate through 360 degrees, but would not slide out. Does it need to be in a specific position before it can slide out?

Nah, just use a small screwdriver or similar and ease it out, they are tight, but do slide out.

[malJohann]

The spring pack may or may not need changed. If the washers in it can easily wiggle from side to side, you could replace it.

Where would I get it though?

[Shane-O-Mac]

Where would I get it though?

How losse are the washers on your spring pack? can you shake the pack and watch them move, or does it take using your fingers to get them to wiggle. On I&I website they do offer a LP spring pack and that should work, or you can try a mag spring pack. Unless your spring pack is very bad, I wouldnt worry about it.

[MntlHazrd]

Currently an Air America Apocalyse 2k is connected to my mag with macroline. the problem is there is enough pressure in the line to keep a seal and not enough pressure in the mag valve to disharge the rest. Any suggestions on how to degass the line so that i may safely disassemble my marker?

[shives007]

Been there. That is why I invested in a few ProConnects.

Couple of options.
1) Let it sit for a while, it will slowly loose pressure.
2) I have taken a set of pliers. Go either side of the macro, and push down on the connection. It should bleed before it pops. At least that has been my experiance.
3) Take a very sharp knife to the line. Start a small cut in the line and let it leak out.

BE CAREFULL!!! For 2 & 3, shut off the pressure using the reg.

Shives

[malJohann]

..2) I have taken a set of pliers. Go either side of the macro, and push down on the connection. It should bleed before it pops. At least that has been my experiance...

Did this with my finger nails the other day after I tested with a macro line in order to eliminate the coiled remote line as a variable. No problems at all, it bled and I still had to pull the line out afterwards.

[MntlHazrd]

Thanks for the suggestions. 1.) it has been sitting for a couple days now and has not lost pressure 2.) sounds like a good idea and will keep it in mind but i dont want to scratch the powder coating on my fittings 3.) its the only macro i have and i dont want to cut it.
I thought of loosening the macro fittings but i dont want to go through the trouble if it will result in me having to reapply the teflon tape. my other idea is to loosen the lp burst disk and let it bleed out from there. After this experience i am defitely thinking about a bleed valve or the like for this.