Level ten questions

[Watcher]

Ok, so I just picked up most of a Level 10 bolt kit at a local shop for about $15.

I was digging through the automag parts box and found the bolt, 2 springs, the powertube tip, and a full compliment of spacers.

However, I couldn't find the backing washer or the shims.


Is the backing washer really important? Can I just find a plastic washer that is the right size and use that in leu of the correct one?

And the shims, are they necessary or just for adjustment?


I am excited that I found it but I need to know what I need before I try an install.

Thanks

[Dend78]

yup you need that backing washer and the shims are what allow the bolt to reset on a pinch/jam

[Tunaman]

I'll send you the washer and a couple of shims. Email me your address. [email protected]

[Watcher]

I'll send you the washer and a couple of shims. Email me your address. [email protected]

For seriously?

Awsome!


That's what I love about the AGD family, it is truly the only company who's following is in fact a big family

[Watcher]

Ok, so despite the missing washer and shims I threw the parts together and wanted to put it in my RTPro so I could take the L7 and powertube tip and put them in my RT classic to replace the ANS bolt and poor condition tip.

However, when I went to put the valve into the gun it stopped short.

When I pulled the valve out, the bolt stayed in the body.

I looked inside and the level 10 bolt was stuck up against the body ring and wouldn't go farther down.


When I slid the level 7 bolt in, it slid all the way down to the barrel and the skirt caught the body ring, the level 10 bolt stopped on the nose, not the skirt.

I tried the level 10 bolt in the RT Classic and the same problem happened, the bolt stopped on the body ring and would not enter the chamber.


What the heck is going on? Does the level 10 bolt need filing or something?


On the same respects, the spring clicks into the bolt, then it clicks once more past the metal o-ring on the nose of the bolt. Should that happen?

[Tunaman]

If the L10 bolt doesn't slide into the body ring it's probably because the body ring has some miles on it. Just take a round rat tail file and run it in there a few times until it fits not too tight. You must have a little play. The mainspring should fit all the way down on the bolt, and be longer than the bolt when installed on the bolt. The shims are not necessary at this time. Or you could have a defective bolt. The bolt should measure out at .686 at the tip. 2.010 overall including stem.

[Spider-TW]

If the L10 bolt doesn't slide into the body ring it's probably because the body ring has some miles on it. Just take a round rat tail file and run it in there a few times until it fits not too tight. You must have a little play. The mainspring should fit all the way down on the bolt, and be longer than the bolt when installed on the bolt. The shims are not necessary at this time. Or you could have a defective bolt. The bolt should measure out at .686 at the tip. 2.010 overall including stem.

Were there not some L10 and body combinations that could be too tight? There's been a few discussions about that little hump in the front of the level 10 being a little too large for some bodies. Would most of those problems be due to the body rings?

[Tunaman]

Were there not some L10 and body combinations that could be too tight? There's been a few discussions about that little hump in the front of the level 10 being a little too large for some bodies. Would most of those problems be due to the body rings?

Yes. There was a different bolt made for the SFL..but that was smaller than normal size.

[Watcher]

I don't think my body ring is worn. I got the Pro in like new condition with only a few cases under its belt, and since my ownership (all winter) its seen maybe one day of play. Barely a case through it.

If my Classic's ring is worn, I think it would show up between the Level 7 and Venturi bolts...



The tip and shaft of my level 7 bolt is the same as the shaft of the level 10 bolt, .680.

However, the level 10 tip is .695.

Level 10 skirt is .9775, level 7 skirt is the same.


I can't measure the length, my calipers only go out to 1"

The level 10 bolt appears to be slightly (a hair or two) shorter than the level 7 standing on end, but the level 10 tail extends taller.

[Spider-TW]

You could try to press something relatively soft in the body ring that you could pull out and measure the dent, like a pine dowel.

There's a thread around here somewhere about the same problem and I can't remember if they filed the body bushing or sanded the bolt tip. If you have to go all the way down to .686 from .695, that will take a lot of sanding on the stainless.

At least it's easier to keep it round when it takes a lot sanding to get a few mils off. I had a classic body that was .996 ID and a docs adapter that was .999 OD. That took a lot of work without a lathe, but that's a lot more surface area than you would have.

[Tunaman]

I would send the bolt back to AGD. .695 is too big.

[athomas]

Yes, it does appear quite large. The ones I have are both 0.684" at the tip.

[Watcher]

Yes, it does appear quite large. The ones I have are both 0.864" at the tip.

.864 seem pretty huge, you mean .684?




So, send it to AGD.

Does it matter if I got it locally? Will AGD honor a return?
Will it be an exchange or will I have to buy one?

Or are these questions I should email to Roman?

[athomas]

Oops. Yes, it should be 0.684".

[Watcher]

Roman got back to me and said it is definitely an SFL level 10 bolt... I don't know why they are different though.

I can try to sand it down, it'll take a while but at this point I have more time than money...