Level ten questions

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  • Watcher
    aka CavDragoneb12
    • Apr 2008
    • 867

    #16
    Well, I filed down my bolt with the help of some heavy and fine grit sandpaper, a bench grinder, and a wire brush to help smooth the work out.

    I tapered it down a bit more than I expected at the very tip, but the result was a very nice taper down from .680 to about .670. Not sure how this will be with paint, but there is still plenty of bolt face so I'm sure it won't be a problem.


    Also, with many thanks to Tunaman, I got a backing washer and 3 shims.
    Thanks as well for the sticker, it went right on my WarpFeed next to the big AGD sticker



    I just had one more question.

    I set it up by selecting a carrier that fit the best, it ended up being the one with 2 lines.

    I added 2 shims.

    And then in my spring kit I had the normal stock bolt spring, a matte silver one with a coil cut off, and a matte silver one with no coil missing.
    I picked the silver one with the whole coil.


    When I air up the gun and bring the velocity up, success! It stopped on my squeegee and my finger. I didn't have paint to test it on, but I tried the dollar bill test and it epic failed.


    Upon further inspection, the spring with the coil cut off is the same length as the one that is whole, am I missing a harder spring? The one with the missing coil even feels a bit harder...
    Or did I grab an old automag spring by mistake?
    Is the harder spring color coded or just longer?
    Or do I have everything I need?


    Is there another way to make it softer, like going down a carrier size?
    Going down one size from 2 lines would be the 1 line 1 dot right?


    Thanks again everyone.


    edit:

    I also noticed that if I hold the trigger down, it will leak air for a second or two then stop, but it doesn't leak when I release the trigger.
    What does that mean? Is that just the level 10 venting more air off?
    Last edited by Watcher; 04-18-2009, 07:32 PM.

    Comment

    • athomas
      Of course it works-its AGD
      • Jan 2002
      • 8039

      #17
      Originally posted by Watcher
      I just had one more question.

      I set it up by selecting a carrier that fit the best, it ended up being the one with 2 lines.

      I added 2 shims.

      And then in my spring kit I had the normal stock bolt spring, a matte silver one with a coil cut off, and a matte silver one with no coil missing.
      I picked the silver one with the whole coil.


      When I air up the gun and bring the velocity up, success! It stopped on my squeegee and my finger. I didn't have paint to test it on, but I tried the dollar bill test and it epic failed.


      Upon further inspection, the spring with the coil cut off is the same length as the one that is whole, am I missing a harder spring? The one with the missing coil even feels a bit harder...
      Or did I grab an old automag spring by mistake?
      Is the harder spring color coded or just longer?
      Or do I have everything I need?


      Is there another way to make it softer, like going down a carrier size?
      Going down one size from 2 lines would be the 1 line 1 dot right?


      Thanks again everyone.
      Springs are the only way to make it softer. You always want the largest carrier that doesn't leak. That will prevent any chances of bolt stick.

      The older level 10 kits didn't have the middle red spring. They had a standard gold spring, a cut grey spring, and a full length grey spring for the three different forces. If using the cut spring, put the cut end towards the bolt.

      The proper spring will allow the valve to cycle down to about 20 fps below the desired operating velocity. So, when tuning your setup, turn the velocity up until it just starts to cycle the valve. Measure the velocity. It should be about 20 fps below where you want it to be. If it is where you want to operate the gun or above that value, then you should probably put in the next lighter spring to guarantee consistent operation without bolt stick. If the operating velocity is a quite bit more than 20 fps below the desired velocity, then use the next stiffer spring. These guidelines will generally give you consistent operation through a range of settings without fear of bolt stick due to changing conditions.

      When testing the ability of the bolt to stop on something in the breach, make sure it is up against the face of the bolt. Any farther than 1/4" from the face and it will hit full force. When doing the dollar bill test, make the dollar bill diameter is the same as the feed opening and make sure the proper operating velocity is set so that you aren't driving the bolt with too much force.
      Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

      Comment

      • athomas
        Of course it works-its AGD
        • Jan 2002
        • 8039

        #18
        Originally posted by Watcher
        I also noticed that if I hold the trigger down, it will leak air for a second or two then stop, but it doesn't leak when I release the trigger.
        What does that mean? Is that just the level 10 venting more air off?
        That's normal for a level 10. The carrier oring just fits, so when the bolt returns and the pressure in the chamber is low, the oring doesn't seal tight against the bolt stem and it loses some air. If you immediately release the trigger, the higher pressure air charging the valve will immediately set the oring so it is never a problem when operating the gun so there is no air loss during play.
        Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

        Comment

        • Watcher
          aka CavDragoneb12
          • Apr 2008
          • 867

          #19
          Ok, thanks a lot guys. Looks like I need to get some paint and access to a chrono.

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