drop off on X'ed Pneumag ???

[big poppa fluff]

OK, probably been answered already, but I haven't ready about anybody having this problem with a X valve. So the problem is i get shoot down on my pnrumag if I get on it fast; also It's unwalkable. The trigger pull is really short as you will see. I run a x valve with a ULT kit and level 10, and as far as the LPR, I dont know what kind it is. The LPR is about 50% up, And a use a preset tank. I bought this gun a week ago, don't get me wrong, I love It, but i want to get a little more out of it. Here is some pics and a video of how it shoots. I know the video is lame but if it helps me get to my goal, who cares. VIDEO AT BOTTOM

http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj58/Daniel_Terro/?action=view&current=Picture033.flv

[WARHEAD]

Seems that maybe the trigger isn't returning had/fast enough or you are really bad at walking, but that wouldn't explain shootdown. How do you know it's shooting down, and are you able to walk other markers?

[big poppa fluff]

Seems that maybe the trigger isn't returning had/fast enough or you are really bad at walking, but that wouldn't explain shootdown. How do you know it's shooting down, and are you able to walk other markers?

ya i can walk a trigger. when i put paint in it the paint drops off, also if i mouse click it fast enough it cuffs. How should the LPR be set?

[Spider-TW]

If it fires at all, you probably have enough pressure from the lpr. Watch your sear as your run the trigger. You should see the sear moving every time even when you hear a chuff.

A ULT in a pneu needs tuning just like you were using it in a mech. Maybe not quite as close, but at least some. Even with some tuning, I found my ULT a little sticky sometimes and not returning. Cyberave68 likes ULTs in pneus. If he doesn't chime in, pm him.

Be sure your technique is good. Walking an electro is no qualification for walking a pneu at high rates. I could never avoid chuffing at least once every couple of podfulls, even with a near reactive ULT.

[big poppa fluff]

Be sure your technique is good. Walking an electro is no qualification for walking a pneu at high rates. I could never avoid chuffing at least once every couple of podfulls, even with a near reactive ULT.

That may be true. I made the trigger fire when it hits the frame to give me more room to walk it, but it seems it harder. I can get by with out walking it but the drop off I got to fix. So what tuning need to be done to fix that.

[Spider-TW]

That may be true. I made the trigger fire when it hits the frame to give me more room to walk it, but it seems it harder. I can get by with out walking it but the drop off I got to fix. So what tuning need to be done to fix that.

Do you have some ULT or level 10 shims? Do you know how many you have in there now? Three level 10 shims (0.010) or six ULT shims (0.005) is the normal limit (0.030 total)

Also, be confident of your bottle reg/asa setup and that it is supplying enough air.

[big poppa fluff]

Do you have some ULT or level 10 shims? Do you know how many you have in there now? Three level 10 shims (0.010) or six ULT shims (0.005) is the normal limit (0.030 total)

Also, be confident of your bottle reg/asa setup and that it is supplying enough air.

when i bought the gun it didnt come with extra shimes, as far as the reg/asa set up air goes to x valve on one side of the asa and the LPR for the Pneu on the other side so I dont see how that would effect the flow to the valve. You think my LPR is up to high

[Spider-TW]

when i bought the gun it didnt come with extra shimes, as far as the reg/asa set up air goes to x valve on one side of the asa and the LPR for the Pneu on the other side so I dont see how that would effect the flow to the valve. You think my LPR is up to high

I was just saying that some bottle regs don't respond very fast and also that some ASAs have pinholes for air passages, and you can end up starving your valve regardless of the kind of trigger it has. Sometimes the ASA pin isn't long enough to open the pin valve well. The pin problem is not as common as it was with old co2 bottles, but it seems to still happen on occasion.

If you have used that bottle on an electro, I would look at the ULT first. Does it have any shims between the top and bottom halves?

A related problem with the on/off is that the ram is too far back and keeping the sear from locking up all the way. If the sear can't come all the way forward, it can catch the bolt without letting the on/off open up all the way. This is a very common problem with first time pneu setups. A little gap between the sear and the ram when aired up is the easiest way to be sure they are not crowding.

[big poppa fluff]

I was just saying that some bottle regs don't respond very fast and also that some ASAs have pinholes for air passages, and you can end up starving your valve regardless of the kind of trigger it has. Sometimes the ASA pin isn't long enough to open the pin valve well. The pin problem is not as common as it was with old co2 bottles, but it seems to still happen on occasion.

If you have used that bottle on an electro, I would look at the ULT first. Does it have any shims between the top and bottom halves?

A related problem with the on/off is that the ram is too far back and keeping the sear from locking up all the way. If the sear can't come all the way forward, it can catch the bolt without letting the on/off open up all the way. This is a very common problem with first time pneu setups. A little gap between the sear and the ram when aired up is the easiest way to be sure they are not crowding.

thanks I'll take a look at it

[flyingpootang]

I would swap the duck bill for another on/off as suggested. To get a walkable trigger make shure there is a gap between the trigger rod and MSV2 arm, make shure the MSV2 arm has a little play in front of it, the contact for the trigger rod should hit the highest point on the MSV2 arm, and have the MPA3 arm hit the lowest point of the sear leg. Here is a pic of mine to gie you an idea:

[big poppa fluff]

I would swap the duck bill for another on/off as suggested. To get a walkable trigger make shure there is a gap between the trigger rod and MSV2 arm, make shure the MSV2 arm has a little play in front of it, the contact for the trigger rod should hit the highest point on the MSV2 arm, and have the MPA3 arm hit the lowest point of the sear leg. Here is a pic of mine to gie you an idea:

I dont have a gap bettween the MSV2 and the frame but i can fix that also I think i might rrig up that asa to make more flow go in it . i dont want to get rid of it because it matchs.

[big poppa fluff]

well guys I tried drilling the hole in the asa biger about 1/4 in, I have reset the positions of how my pneu parts work, i lengthed my trigger pull, and shorted my trigger pull, but the gun still wanted to baug down. So I put a stock valve w/ a Phase II charger on it just to see....and like magic it worked great, walkable no baugs just plain great . Then i took my X valve and put it in a mag I had set up for CO2, stock double finger frame. I noticed the ON/OFF would not reset it self sometimes or it would double fire . Now my question is WTF is wrong with my X-valve/ULT.

[big poppa fluff]

I forgot to ask if you can run a X-valve on CO2????

[afortuna]

I forgot to ask if you can run a X-valve on CO2????

Rule #1 when running with the X-valve, no CO2. It's like running with scissors in your hands only worse.

[big poppa fluff]

Rule #1 when running with the X-valve, no CO2. It's like running with scissors in your hands only worse.

WELL that sucks Can you help me with my X-valve problem