Old Classic mag and valve advice please

[Old Baller]

Ok this is my first post on here and I hope you all may be able to offer some good advice. I will first flat out say I am not an expert on automags and I have kinda been out of the scene for a half dozen years so the little I knew has become less

My problem -My valve is shot(classic). I think it needs a rebuild atleast but I also think the power tube threading may be shot as the tip will not thread properly. I dunno if this is omething that can be fixed.

I have an old 68 automag with classic valve nice splash ano on the entire gun, front grip, drop down, and regulator. The regulator however is a reverse thread as is my tank. So if I swap out the classic valve for an x valve I am not supposed to use a regulator right? If this is the case I not only have to get rid of the regulator I will also have to get a new tank right? As once the reg is removed I will not be able to get a bottom bottle holder in a reverse thread right?

SO my questions

Can I run a regulator on an x valve?

if not

Can I get a reverse thread bottom bottle holder?

and/or

If I sent the classic valve to AGD would they be able to fix it and would it be worth it?

If anyone has any suggestions or questions, or answers ect

[Barsse]

Hope I can answer some questions right:

You CAN run a regulator on X-valve, but it will not do really much good, perhaps only starve the valve and weaken your performance if anything.

BUT, if you want to use a regulator becuase you're running CO2 - FORGET it. X-valve is HPA only. While some claim you can do it if you can keep the liquid 100% out, it's not worth risking it, just invest in HPA, you'll be better off anyway.

And I don't think AGD services classic valves anymore. The community here will help you though, free of charge, if you tell us what the problem is. It will most likely be that you need to replace an o-ring, that's it.

[Old Baller]

Yes it is HPA its a really decent tank which is parta the reason I don't wanna have to replace it simply because of the reverse thread thing.

I hope that if they won't service it they will still have all the repair parts and o rings and stuff as after this many years I figure quite a few are gonna need replacing and basically all I have left is the gun my parts box seems to have gone AWOL

[secretweaponevan]

Barsse nailed it.

How old is your tank? They need to be re-hydro'd at least every 5 years, 3 years for older ones. Max life on tanks is 15 years before they are deemed "unsafe" to re-hydro.

Is the damage with the powertube to the tip or to the powertube itself? The tip is soft brass while the powertube itself is stainless steel, so I would hope that the problem is with the tip which you can get here: http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...&categoryID=18

...Or perhaps for cheap/free from someone who has upgraded to a Level 10 bolt kit.

I'm pretty sure that AGD will service your valve, but we can get her running just fine with advice from here.

Also, you should watch the Automag Manual video on youtube (all 9 parts). You will become an expert, fast.

Welcome back!

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[Old Baller]

The Tank was last tested in 2003 so yes I will have to get it tested I suppose. I am gonna take the gun apart and see what I can find about the tip. I know something is wrong in there but its been a few years since I had this gun apart. Thanks for the vids I will watch em all. If this valve is ok I may purchase a level 10 this season and run it on the classic and look at picking up an x valve over the winter. Thanks for the advice so far and I will put on my findings here after I pull this apart.

[Barsse]

I noticed that when a valve has been on the shelf for too long, one of the most common things to happen is that on/off ring pretty much dissolves and crumbles if you touch it. Also, lube the rear black spring-like thingy inside the regulator, I generally use Dow33.

Let's get you all fixed up and back on the field!

[Old Baller]

Ok so I broke the valve down a bit and I have concluded that the major problem is most likely just in the power tube tip. The threads are shot on it but they don't appear to be shot on the power tube itself. So I checked the online store and was thinking that if I have to order stuff anyways I might as well just order a level 10 as that would come with a new power tube tip assembly however I did notice that they have a disclaimer that it will not work on field rental automags. As this gun is so old and I bought it second hand I have no way of knowing if this is a former field rental valve. I am going to asume its not but is there any way I can tell for sure?

[secretweaponevan]

Ok so I broke the valve down a bit and I have concluded that the major problem is most likely just in the power tube tip. The threads are shot on it but they don't appear to be shot on the power tube itself. So I checked the online store and was thinking that if I have to order stuff anyways I might as well just order a level 10 as that would come with a new power tube tip assembly however I did notice that they have a disclaimer that it will not work on field rental automags. As this gun is so old and I bought it second hand I have no way of knowing if this is a former field rental valve. I am going to asume its not but is there any way I can tell for sure?

If it laser-engraved "FIELD RENTAL" on the valve, it is. If not, it isn't.

Also, I've always used white lithium grease on my spring pack and regulator adjusting nut.

[Old Baller]

Really appreciate all the help guys thanks

Ok so it is not an old field rental thats good. I think I can make this valve work with the new power tube tip so I am gonna get the level 10 and a few sets of o rings ect.

However I have now noticed that I apparently do not appear to have a safety anymore. There is one hole on the left hand side of the gun very close to the trigger pin hole which is where I believe it was.... strangly enough the hole does not go through to the otherside. I am not quite sure how I can go about fixing this. I did look on the agd site to see if they listed safety mechanisms but I didn't see them. I searched around on the forum and looked at pics but I am not sure what to do. Any suggestions?

[secretweaponevan]

Here ya go. Click to get to the product.



I don't know about the hole that doesn't go all the way through though.

[Adam45]

Here ya go. Click to get to the product.



I don't know about the hole that doesn't go all the way through though.

If the hole doesnt go all the way through it may be a second party frame. The Kapp groovy frame has a safety only on one side. I think the Dye frame also has a one sided safety.

Can you post a picture ? it may help.

[Old Baller]

I will pick up my cam at work today and throw a pic on tonight

[Frizzle Fry]

Can I run a regulator on an x valve?

If you have an X-valve (or any AGD valve), you're already running a regulator

The entire valve back is a reg, much like an AGD Flatline tank reg. People say that Automags are "hogs" that "like high pressure" but in truth it's not so much that they're a high pressure marker, more that they're a marker with a reg built in so they don't require an additional regulator like so many markers on the market... You will, more likely than not, "starve" the valve if you run a vertical regulator on you X-valve purely because it will drastically decrease the input pressure to the built-in automag reg.

That said, you'll be running HPA so looking in to the right TANK regulator is important... The more consistent the output, and the higher the output pressure, the better speed and performance you will get out of your Automag.

[Bagheera]

If you have an X-valve (or any AGD valve), you're already running a regulator

The entire valve back is a reg, much like an AGD Flatline tank reg. People say that Automags are "hogs" that "like high pressure" but in truth it's not so much that they're a high pressure marker, more that they're a marker with a reg built in so they don't require an additional regulator like so many markers on the market... You will, more likely than not, "starve" the valve if you run a vertical regulator on you X-valve purely because it will drastically decrease the input pressure to the built-in automag reg.

Ain't this the truth. As I was setting up my custom 'Mag still running on Co2, I found that a Palmer's Stabilizer, while a beautiful piece of machinery, was starving the valve, whereas when I finally replaced it with a plain 'ol expansion chamber (nuthin' fancy), it performed beautifully. So, take it from my own experience, you don't need an additional regulator.

[Wanta B Sniper]

But if it worked fine with the reg before, then it should still work fine with the reg now. So unless you notice horrible shoot down then I wouldn't worry about it.