Level 10 recocking slow on squeege test

[DamianTC]

I have 3 mags with Level 10. On the 2 mechs, the bolt will recock just as fast on a squeege test as it would during regular rapid firing.

On my Emag, during a squeege test, when the bolt hits the squeege, I will hear air being released from the power tube for about half a second then the bolt will recock. During the last game I played, the bolt didn't recock about 2 or 3 times and I had to push it back with my finger.

I am using the carrier with a line and no dot with no leaks. If I use one line & one dot, it will leak.

No matter how many shims I use, it makes no difference. I get the same result. (I tryed from 0 to 5)

It fires perfectly during dry firing and is super fast. (no squeege test)

The Emag is lubed well. My 4500 Flatline is set around 850-900 and I have a full tank of air.

My velocity is set to 275-280 with the smallest spring.

I am pretty much stumped at this one and not sure what to try next. Anyone have any ideas for the next thing to try?

[secretweaponevan]

I have 3 mags with Level 10. On the 2 mechs, the bolt will recock just as fast on a squeege test as it would during regular rapid firing.

On my Emag, during a squeege test, when the bolt hits the squeege, I will hear air being released from the power tube for about half a second then the bolt will recock. During the last game I played, the bolt didn't recock about 2 or 3 times and I had to push it back with my finger.

I am using the carrier with a line and no dot with no leaks. If I use one line & one dot, it will leak.

No matter how many shims I use, it makes no difference. I get the same result. (I tryed from 0 to 5)

It fires perfectly during dry firing and is super fast. (no squeege test)

The Emag is lubed well. My 4500 Flatline is set around 850-900 and I have a full tank of air.

My velocity is set to 275-280 with the smallest spring.

I am pretty much stumped at this one and not sure what to try next. Anyone have any ideas for the next thing to try?

Does the 1.5 carrier leak with the current o-ring?
(you should use the same o-ring while testing carriers)
At what velocity does the marker start to cycle?
(you want the spring that allows the marker to start to cycle 20fps below your target velocity)

Although it shouldn't be, it really sounds like too tight a carrier and/or too weak a bolt spring.

[BiNumber3]

sry if this is a thread jack, but do shims affect the resetting of the bolt normally? never really understood what exactly the shims did.

have u tried different springs?

[secretweaponevan]

sry if this is a thread jack, but do shims affect the resetting of the bolt normally? never really understood what exactly the shims did.

have u tried different springs?

Shims affect the vent point. They are to be added one at a time if after the bolt encounters a jam, it doesn't reset.

If it just sticks while dry-firing, shims won't help it.

[DamianTC]

Does the 1.5 carrier leak with the current o-ring?
(you should use the same o-ring while testing carriers)
At what velocity does the marker start to cycle?
(you want the spring that allows the marker to start to cycle 20fps below your target velocity)

Although it shouldn't be, it really sounds like too tight a carrier and/or too weak a bolt spring.

I am not sure of carrier numbers, but if 1.5 = one line & no dot, then no. the carrier does not leak.

I have kept the same o-ring when trying different carriers

I don't have a chrono to tell you what velocity the marker starts to shoot, but my target velocity is 280 (my fields max) so I use the smallest spring

[DamianTC]

I just tryed the red spring. The gun won't fire. I tryed increasing the velocity until I hit max and still wouldn't fire. When I pulled the trigger, I had pressure on the sear pin but it just wouldn't fire.

Could this be an issue with the regulator since the red spring is able to hold the gun back from firing even with the velocity set to max?

[secretweaponevan]

Carrier sizes:
Line = Whole Size
Dot = Half size


You want the largest carrier that does not leak. First post you said that 1.5 leaks, 5th post you said it doesn't.

Make sure you are using the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Don't use shims until after you find "Your" carrier.

If your tank pressure is under 800, It might not fire. What is your tank pressure at?

[DamianTC]

the biggest carrier I ever got in all 3 of my Level 10 kits was one line & one dot. That carrier leaks in this one. The next smallest carrier, one line & no dot is the biggest that doesn't leak.

My tank output pressure is over 850. I still have over 3000psi in my tank

[secretweaponevan]

Okay, I'm near stumped.

The slow venting is strange. Does your valve do the lawn sprinkler when the trigger (mech mode) is held back?

Out of curiosity, what on/off pin/o-rings are you using?

[DamianTC]

I am using the standard emag on/off and pin. I bought this new from tuna

[FiXeL]

Try playing a little with the tightness of your thumbscrew and what kind of oil are you using? I've had issues with o-rings sticking using the wrong oil. Also i would be wise to check the inside of your body for unusual wear, maybe the valve is not alligned correctly (see the thumbscrew thing) and thus not cycling properly.

[DamianTC]

I have always used Gold Cup oil. I will look at the tightness of the screws today and post again

[Ando]

Have you tried to tighten the field strip screw beyond hand tight? I know the norm is loosen it up but I have to snug one of my markers down with a allen key to get it to shoot right.

[FiXeL]

Forgot to mention this, but also check the body screw in front of the trigger. If you overtighten it on a ule rail there is a possibility it warps the body out of shape. It might not be much, but that could also cause the bolt not cycling smooth trough the body.

Usually i tighten it very lightly, with a long 1/8" allen key and using the short end to apply force. That should prevent you from overtightening it.

[Coralis]

Perhaps the vent hole is partially blocked, have you tried switching level 10's from on mag to another?