I'm still learning, drop in and see if you can help me out

[roxcreek]

Hey everyone, I've learned so much from this site because here is very helpful and know what they're talking about. I'm getting my first mag soon, so I have to say that I'm pretty anxious about starting out on the next chapter of my paintball experience. I can't seem to come up with the answers to these questions. EDIT: anyone else who passes through here with a question of their own can feel free to add their own to the thread. The title of the thread lends itself to a help thread where no one has to make a new thread for their question. I also hope that people can come back to this in the future and look through to see if they can find their answer.

I have a pretty strong understanding of pneumatic setups that can be integrated into Automag designs but I have always had an open ear for their flaws. In "Pneumags" I've heard that there's a chance of breaking paint that is specific to Pneumags. What truth is there behind that? Also, what is the advantage that a Pneumag has over a UL Trigger pull kit?

When using air setups like the Centerflag Dynaflow, why is it an advantage to have your input pressure significantly higher (1000 plus) than most run of the mill, preset "high pressure" tanks (at about 800 or 900, if I'm not mistaken). I've come up with personal assumptions that would explain why (My thoughts were that the pressure can a. force the 'mag valve back into place faster, or b. the bolt comes back into place with more force so the shooter can achieve trigger bounce), but I just want to make sure. With that in mind, what would the ideal input pressure be for each different AGD valve.

What are the differences between the successively pricier sears and rails? I know that there are considerably stark aesthetic differences between the standard AM/MM rail and the Karta rail (does anyone know how it got that name?) for example, but is that the only difference? Is there an extra feature that the Karta has over the basic rail? The same goes for the sear. There seems to be two types of sears for mech 'mags: The basic sear and the RT. What is the difference between these two as well?

Would it bring any advantage at all to add in an inline reg between the valve and the tank, or does the valve have it all under control?

Are there any written guides for adjusting the Level 10 bolt?

does the Tac-One body use unique rails?

How do I go about adjusting the FPS on the valve? after looking at pictures and cutaways from ZDSPB, I assume it's one the back face of the valve. I just wanted to make sure.

If there's any advice anybody would want to share, I always have an open ear.


I feel obnoxious, asking all of these questions, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

[Smoothice]

Hey everyone, I've learned so much from this site because here is very helpful and know what they're talking about. I'm getting my first mag soon, so I have to say that I'm pretty anxious about starting out on the next chapter of my paintball experience. I can't seem to come up with the answers to these questions.

I have a pretty strong understanding of pneumatic setups that can be integrated into Automag designs but I have always had an open ear for their flaws. In "Pneumags" I've heard that there's a chance of breaking paint that is specific to Pneumags. What truth is there behind that? Also, what is the advantage that a Pneumag has over a UL Trigger pull kit?

As I understand it the only reason paint is broken in a pneumag is because of short stroking. (pulling the trigger before everything is fully reloaded). There is no electronic board to space out your shots. So if you are not pulling the trigger at a consistent rate then you could short stroke it.

When using air setups like the Centerflag Dynaflow, why is it an advantage to have your input pressure significantly higher (1000 plus) than most run of the mill, preset "high pressure" tanks (at about 800 or 900, if I'm not mistaken). I've come up with personal assumptions that would explain why (My thoughts were that the pressure can a. force the 'mag valve back into place faster, or b. the bolt comes back into place with more force so the shooter can achieve trigger bounce), but I just want to make sure. With that in mind, what would the ideal input pressure be for each different AGD valve.

Higher input = easier reactivity on retro valves.

Basically a retro valve (rt valve, x valve, emag valve) recharges so fast that it actually pushes the trigger back. The higher the input pressure the faster and harder it pushes it back. With this you can sweet spot the trigger. So instead of pulling back the trigger you just need to keep it in the right position and the gun basically goes full auto until you move your finger.

This does not work with a classic/minimag valve.



What are the differences between the successively pricier sears and rails? I know that there are considerably stark aesthetic differences between the standard AM/MM rail and the Karta rail (does anyone know how it got that name?) for example, but is that the only difference? Is there an extra feature that the Karta has over the basic rail? The same goes for the sear. There seems to be two types of sears for mech 'mags: The basic sear and the RT. What is the difference between these two as well?

Rails - asthetic only. There is not performance difference other then weight.

Sears. An rt sear screws into the rail. A classic sear sits in a slot in the rail. An emag sear screws into the rail like a rt sear but it also has an extra leg to connect to the plunger.

Would it bring any advantage at all to add in an inline reg between the valve and the tank, or does the valve have it all under control?

Valve has it all under control. Unless you are running c02.

Are there any written guides for adjusting the Level 10 bolt?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

Not written but I love this video.

does the Tac-One body use unique rails?

No.

How do I go about adjusting the FPS on the valve? after looking at pictures and cutaways from ZDSPB, I assume it's one the back face of the valve. I just wanted to make sure.

Correct.

If there's any advice anybody would want to share, I always have an open ear.

Hide your wallet. Cause this forum will empty it over and over again.


I feel obnoxious, asking all of these questions, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Answers in blue.

[snoopay700]

Hey everyone, I've learned so much from this site because here is very helpful and know what they're talking about. I'm getting my first mag soon, so I have to say that I'm pretty anxious about starting out on the next chapter of my paintball experience. I can't seem to come up with the answers to these questions.

I have a pretty strong understanding of pneumatic setups that can be integrated into Automag designs but I have always had an open ear for their flaws. In "Pneumags" I've heard that there's a chance of breaking paint that is specific to Pneumags. What truth is there behind that? Also, what is the advantage that a Pneumag has over a UL Trigger pull kit?

I've never had problems with pneumags breaking paint with my level 10. As for the difference, the pneumag is as light or lighter than an electric, ULT lowers the pull to one pound, and still has the normal pull of a mag, where as pneumags have a much shorter trigger pull.

When using air setups like the Centerflag Dynaflow, why is it an advantage to have your input pressure significantly higher (1000 plus) than most run of the mill, preset "high pressure" tanks (at about 800 or 900, if I'm not mistaken). I've come up with personal assumptions that would explain why (My thoughts were that the pressure can a. force the 'mag valve back into place faster, or b. the bolt comes back into place with more force so the shooter can achieve trigger bounce), but I just want to make sure. With that in mind, what would the ideal input pressure be for each different AGD valve.

Higher pressure equals more reactivity, meaning you can bounce the trigger easier. Check out the RT effect thread in this forum, it explains how that works. If you just want to play pure semi auto (what most fields allow) i would just get a preset tank, that's al you need for mags, as long as it's HP.

What are the differences between the successively pricier sears and rails? I know that there are considerably stark aesthetic differences between the standard AM/MM rail and the Karta rail (does anyone know how it got that name?) for example, but is that the only difference? Is there an extra feature that the Karta has over the basic rail? The same goes for the sear. There seems to be two types of sears for mech 'mags: The basic sear and the RT. What is the difference between these two as well?

The rails are usually cosmetic, but can be lighter and the karta and other ULE ones are longer so you can mount a foregrip, but it depends on the rail as well. As for the sears, the RT sear has a roller bearing where as the AM/MM does not, so it makes the sear smoother.

Would it bring any advantage at all to add in an inline reg between the valve and the tank, or does the valve have it all under control?

No, you never put a reg on a mag, it has a reg in the valve, and it's all the reg you'll need.

Are there any written guides for adjusting the Level 10 bolt?

on this site, homepage, there's a link, i believe it says level x

does the Tac-One body use unique rails?

this one i have no clue, i think it might, but it might use a ule rail

How do I go about adjusting the FPS on the valve? after looking at pictures and cutaways from ZDSPB, I assume it's one the back face of the valve. I just wanted to make sure.

you're correct, it's a reg on the back, you screw it in to turn velocity up, turn it out to turn it down

If there's any advice anybody would want to share, I always have an open ear.


I feel obnoxious, asking all of these questions, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Answers in bold.

EDIT: Damn you smoothice, DAMN YOU!!!!!

[roxcreek]

These just popped into my head

This might seem like "old knowledge" that some of the most basic players know but it's more like a rule that people don't understand in full:

Why isn't it a good idea to run CO2 in specific markers?

• One of the more specific tails of this wide question is what makes a marker susceptible to this CO2 effect? Which parts are the ones that are in danger? Is it the o-rings? the electrical wiring? I just have never had anyone tell me in this amount of detail, and it has bothered me every time I try to think of what the exact reason is.
  
  Another point of curiosity is what makes a regulator good or bad for CO2?
  
  I have found that as a general rule of thumb, most electropneumatic markers are not OK for CO2, but electronic sear trippers are. Correct me here if I'm wrong. Then when one of my friends got his first gun, the Vibe, it looked as though it was built for CO2. It's forward grip was built like an expansion chamber and had a little woven mesh at the bottom. Since the Vibe is electropneumatic (and not a sear tripper) that brakes my above rule. However, I faintly remember the Vibe as having extra features that allow it to cope with CO2. Anyway, is there a rule of rules that can be applied to all markers that concerns their use of CO2 and the dangers it poses?

Established Grounds: I understand that CO2 usually exists in two states for this application. In the tank there is both gaseous CO2 and liquid CO2. In an ideal situation the gas will be all that enters the marker beyond the ASA, but thanks to Murphy, we have to take precautions against liquid CO2 coming into the gun. But this is where my confusion sets in, I just don't know EXACTLY why CO2 can damage guns. My understanding of this relationship is limited and based off of unverified assumptions. I just need people with more pneumatics knowledge than me to help me build a solid base of facts that I can help spread to others.


This is still mag related, so, despite the mentioning of the Vibe above, I hope for this to stick around in the Tech Section.

[secretweaponevan]

Because CO2 changes states at a fairly low pressure. As a result of this, its temperature drops, freezing o-rings, damaging them, preventing them from sealing, and damaging other seals on your gun.

CO2 is a cruel mistress, especially in mags. Lots of potential energy per cubic inch, but tough to harness it reliably.

Great question!

[roxcreek]

back to the Pneumag

Thanks for the help so far you guys! I've got another question that's related to the pneumag setup... Since the only issue with the pneumag setup is it's possibility of short stroking, can't I just ramp up the pressure input from the ASA?

EDIT: I'm looking through the parts list for the Pneumag, I found that this list lists the MSV-2, MSV-1 and MSV-3. I know that I need the MSV-2, but I can't imagine where the MSV-1 and 3 would go. I assume that it's an option between the three.

Also, from the above parts list, it gives the "Clippard 11752-5" as my choice of barbs... Where could I get these? Could I use these as a substitute?

Thirdly, the MPA-3 would need some sort of piston to hold the ram shaft as well. This piston is shown in the pictures, but is not listed in the parts. The same goes for the face of the MPA-3, except that it seems to have been ignored altogether.

thanks for your help, you guys are really great

[roxcreek]

bump?

[Spider-TW]

The easiest way to collect the little pneumag parts is a kit from Cyberave68 in the dealers BST. He can get you single parts as well. If you feel like deviating from the popular recipe, www.airsoldier.com has lots of parts to keep you entertained.

Since you only feel the pressure from the LPR and chuffs are just from not letting the reg recharge, you're best bet is to learn good trigger control and stay at a rate that is within your limitations, which should be around twice your good single trigger speed.

[roxcreek]

Thanks

Thanks you guys, I really appreciate the help.

[snoopay700]

Regarding a reg and co2, it's because co2 can get up to 1500 psi i think and it fluctuates from 400 psi about to 1500, i could be off on the numbers but i think that's it. A reg will ensure it doesn't raise above a certain pressure is all, so it makes your gun more consistent with co2.

As for all of your pneumag questions, check this out:

http://www.pblegion.com/showthread.php?t=818&highlight=how+to+pneumag

[roxcreek]

I have my first Automag now and I went out to shoot it. It's just a regular old 68 classic with a minimag valve and level 7. I noticed that there is a gap between the valve and the body where the valve fits into the body. Is that gonna be an issue?

The consistency also seems to be a little off. I had pretty serious drop and balls spinning off to the side while using CO2. I only used the CO2 because I didn't have the high pressure output tank filled up. Do you guys think it could just be the CO2 or could it be that the wire detent on the barrel is spinning them (I have the nubbin on the left of the barrel, and the balls were spinning off to the left). I was taking these shots at about 20 yards at a man sized target at 0 incline with impact and some other paint at 40 per case. The drops would hit the ground just before they got to the target and the ones that spun would go a good 10 or so feet up and to the left.

Thanks for your input

[athomas]

Check the balls for roundness. Odd shaped balls can cause inconsistency issues. Also, check the balls in the barrel to see if they fit properly. If they are too tight, it could cause inaccuracies as well. Many would say that a loose fit will cause problems too, but I have never experienced that and I use vastly oversized barrels for everything.

[secretweaponevan]

I noticed that there is a gap between the valve and the body where the valve fits into the body. Is that gonna be an issue?

It could mean that you are missing your rail bushing, pictured below, sticking out of the rail behind the sear. Thanks RamboPreacher for the hotlink.

[Chace]

Possible?

Would it be possible to just stick a few o-rings in the macro port so the bottom of the threading seals against the air hole instead of using messy teflon tape or blue/purple loctite?

[secretweaponevan]

Would it be possible to just stick a few o-rings in the macro port so the bottom of the threading seals against the air hole instead of using messy teflon tape or blue/purple loctite?

In a word, no.