I'm still learning, drop in and see if you can help me out

[Chace]

Why? If it sealed properly and didn't stick out anywhere, it would be perfect? Or maybe I am not understanding? Pardon my n00bishness..

[roxcreek]

Why? If it sealed properly and didn't stick out anywhere, it would be perfect? Or maybe I am not understanding? Pardon my n00bishness..

Most likely it's because multiple o rings stacked together is not an effective seal in the slightest, (because that can slide against one another) another reason would be because the surface of the valve is not flat and there is no opposing face to bend the o ring to fit this face.

[roxcreek]

It could mean that you are missing your rail bushing, pictured below, sticking out of the rail behind the sear. Thanks RamboPreacher for the hotlink.

I wish it were that simple, the bushing is there. The valve and the body don't exactly fit together all to well, in addition to this separation, the valve is incredibly difficult to remove from the body... I have a strong feeling that it is the paint, coupled with the CO2. I'll get back when I can use compressed air and good paint.

[athomas]

If the mag is used, make sure you change all the orings. That way you know you are starting with everything fresh. Old orings could cause consistency issues, especially the regulator seat oring.

Don't worry about a slight gap between the valve and body. As long as the rail bushing is in place, the field strip screw will hold everything where it needs to be. Does the body have a square front or an angled front? The square front is a classic body. The angled front is a retro/emag body. The pim that the grip frame screw attaches to on the retro body is a bit longer and causes issues on the classic rails. It is easily fixed with a file if that is the case.

[secretweaponevan]

the valve is incredibly difficult to remove from the body...

Degas then pull the trigger. Sometimes the on/off pin will stick down too far making it hard to remove the valve. Pulling the trigger after degas pushes the on/off pin up and out of the way.

Watch the video manual for automags. You'll learn a metric crap ton about your automag.
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[roxcreek]

Degas then pull the trigger. Sometimes the on/off pin will stick down too far making it hard to remove the valve. Pulling the trigger after degas pushes the on/off pin up and out of the way.

Watch the video manual for automags. You'll learn a metric crap ton about your automag.
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thanks, I looked through this video one time before I got the mag, but I'll go through it another time. Also, I will get the full replacement kit, I wish that the mag had come with it in the first place though.

thanks again

[roxcreek]

egomags and wooden grips

Here's another question:
When you make an egomag, do you still get the same short stroking issues as you would with a pneumag?

When making wooden grips for the carbon fiber single trigger, what method should I use to secure the grip to the frame. I noticed that there is a hex hole in the center, but no may to solidly attach them. I would think I could drill and tap something, but are there any instructionals for this?

[athomas]

Any mag can be short stroked if you pull the trigger too quickly after the previous cycle. The lighter the trigger pull, the easier it is to do.

The wooden grips should be fastened to the grip frame the same way the regular grips are fastened. Use a screw in a recessed hole. That is generally why wooden grips are a bit fatter than plastic grips. You can make the wooden grip thinner by fastening a piece of flat steel or aluminum in a recess in the back of the wooden grip.

[Flatliner333]

New Mag

Look at the many options available for your mag before you start puting any money in to it. You may get grips for that frame and decide you want a double trigger 45* frame. Also after you replace all the o rings in the valve and get the gun shooting like it is supposed to chrono it and shoot it for a bit before you go tinkering with it.This way you can see how great the gun is of the shelf before you make it better with your mods.

[Flatliner333]

Dumb question?

Here is a question I have not seen anywhere.I have 2 classic sears one with a bump behind the front bolt lip and one without. Is the bump relative to the taper on the back of the lvl X bolt? If not ,what is it for?

[roxcreek]

Here is a question I have not seen anywhere.I have 2 classic sears one with a bump behind the front bolt lip and one without. Is the bump relative to the taper on the back of the lvl X bolt? If not ,what is it for?

go ahead and post a picture, I'm curious to see what you mean.

Look at the many options available for your mag before you start putting any money in to it. You may get grips for that frame and decide you want a double trigger 45* frame. Also after you replace all the o rings in the valve and get the gun shooting like it is supposed to chrono it and shoot it for a bit before you go tinkering with it.This way you can see how great the gun is of the shelf before you make it better with your mods.

I have a pretty good idea of where I want to go with the mag, I plan to put a q-loader on it, keep the single trigger, maybe keep the valve and bolt and if I can find enough wood and a spline, I want to try for a wooden foregrip. However, the foregrip and q-loader are where I am the most open to opinions though, I just don;t have any idea on how it'll feel.

[roxcreek]

more wood

Are there any tutorials on how to go from a block of wood to a complete grip either here on AO or somewhere else? I have been having to cut down some of the trees on my dad's property to make a field for speedball. I cut down a pretty large tree that I think was a redwood, I would hope to use that or some of the other wood I have had to cut down, purely for sentimental reasons. If none of the wood would be practical to use, I think it would be fine to go and buy some pre-dried wood, that is known to be good for making pistol grips.

I'm mostly just looking for the tools, techniques and measurements to attach the grips. Once I know what I cannot do I can carve the grip according to what I think feels good in my hand.

[Flatliner333]

sears

Here is a question I have not seen anywhere.I have 2 classic sears one with a bump behind the front bolt lip and one without. Is the bump relative to the taper on the back of the lvl X bolt? If not ,what is it for?

<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/?action=view&current=Sears.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo263/patrickmason/Sears.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

[snoopay700]

Not the level 10, just there to stop the sear from going too far upward, it was added to later models i believe to make it so that the sear only grabs the bolt and doesn't really run into the spring. Mine is like the bottom one.

[Flatliner333]

Bump... no puns here

Thanks.