E-Mag too reactive in mech mode

[WarHamster]

Okay, so here's my dillema.

I just picked up my first E-Mag. It has an EMax valve (stock on/off so far as I can tell), standard E-Mag lowers, and I'm using a crossfire HP screw-in tank on it.

The mag shoots great in electro mode. When I try to use it in mech mode though it becomes insanely reactive. Like I'm talking it's hard to pull the trigger and get a single shot. You almost always get at least two. Now I know this would be a positive thing for some people, but I actually prefer a mild reactivity in my mag (where I have to actually TRY to get it going, and I can fire slowly if I want).

Since it fires fine in electro (no double shots) I'm thinking the seer is fine and that it might be an on/off issue, but I have no clue how to go about addressing it. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can get it to be less reactive in Mech mode?

[xero28]

I'm not sure if it's really a question of reactivity in the valve. Generally I think of reactivity as the trigger pushing back against your finger harder than you are pulling it. It sounds like you are actually getting double shots from one trigger pull. Is this correct? If so, it usually means that the on/off is not sealing properly when you pull the trigger. So, it releases the bolt when you pull the trigger, and the bolt returns. But since you still have the trigger down, the sear doesn't catch it. If the on/off is slightly open still, pressure will build up behind the bolt and fire the gun again since there is nothing to hold it back (the sear).

I hope that helps. If it has nothing to do with your problem, please disregard this post. I was never here.

[WarHamster]

Well it doesn't seem like double shots. It feels like the trigger is bouncing off my finger like it does when I have a have an adjustable tank cranked up way high and the trigger gets all hyper reactive.

[Ando]

First thing is ck the sear, bot and lvl 10 for wear.

Every valve is different. I have some that will RT the way I like it at 900psi and some that won't go till 1150-1250 psi. Play with your tank and get it where you want it.

[Frizzle Fry]

Is your sear pin too long? If that were the case it'd work fine in electro because the trigger pull is minimal, but in mech or hybrid it'd be pushed up against the trigger in a way that'd make the sear VERY hard way to trip manually. You'll notice that the travel of trigger is reduced slightly from mech to hybrid, then more so for E-mode. In E-mode you shouldn't even be able to touch the pin. It's a different tuning method than most mech markers would be.

[WarHamster]

First thing is ck the sear and lvl 10 for wear.

Every valve is different. I have some that will RT the way I like it at 900psi and some that won't go till 1150-1250 psi. Play with your tank and get it where you want it.

I'm using a screw-in preset on this one so sadly adjusting the input pressure isn't an option. If I put my Max-flo on there would I just have to turn DOWN the input as low as I can without killing the velocity to see if that works?

Is your sear pin too long? If that were the case it'd work fine in electro because the trigger pull is minimal, but in mech or hybrid it'd be pushed up against the trigger in a way that'd make the sear VERY hard way to trip manually. You'll notice that the travel of trigger is reduced slightly from mech to hybrid, then more so for E-mode. In E-mode you shouldn't even be able to touch the pin. It's a different tuning method than most mech markers would be.

The pull on mech mode doesn't seem that unusual and it doesn't seem to change when it's in hybrid mode. It just seems like after a shot when it bounces back, it'll hit my finger and bounce back for another shot frequently.

[athomas]

If the sear tip is worn, it will exhibit rapid fire tendencies. The emag is more prone to that due to the shorter pin. The sear will still look ok on a quick glance to the naked eye. If you look closely at the tip where it catches the bolt, it should be sharp and defined. If it is rounded, your sear is probably worn.

[pump]

would a longer pin help?

[athomas]

would a longer pin help?

Not if the sear tip is worn.

[Sumthinwicked]

trade u my emag valve for ur valve ;P

[WarHamster]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm fairly certain that the seer is fine because the RT valve off my micromag shoots just fine. It's definitly an issue with the valve, and thus I'm thinking it might have something to do with the on/off pin as many of you have suggested.

Unfortunately I lost the foamie on the bolt and I don't have any more replacements so I won't be able to play around with the pin and tuning the whole marker until I procure a few new foamies. I'll update you all when I can.

[maniacmechanic]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm fairly certain that the seer is fine because the RT valve off my micromag shoots just fine. It's definitly an issue with the valve, and thus I'm thinking it might have something to do with the on/off pin as many of you have suggested.

Unfortunately I lost the foamie on the bolt and I don't have any more replacements so I won't be able to play around with the pin and tuning the whole marker until I procure a few new foamies. I'll update you all when I can.

You don't need a foamie

[Ando]

Foamie = Over Rated

I haven't had one in mine for 2 months and i have like 10 in my box-o-parts

[WarHamster]

Seriously? I've just never gone without one. I always assumed the deep cup without a foamie would be too hard on paint, so I never tried it.

[maniacmechanic]

I've got quite a few LX setups , when one falls off I don't replace it