Cato's mag rescue help!

[WickedKlown2]

Can anyone help me with this RT problem?

Are you using a ULT (ULE Trigger on/off) or R/T on/off ??? check the length of your on/off pin... if it's a R/T then it should be .750 long... If it's ULT (ULE Trigger on/off) try using only 3 shims ...

Hope that Helps

WK2

[Ando]

Ult?

[Frizzle Fry]

Ult?

http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/ult.shtml

I've never had a ULT go R/T. I've had one go auto, but that was with the trigger either slack or held down depending on adjustments.

[WickedKlown2]

Ult?

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=358

WK2

[CatoRockwell]

I was using a ULT, however I put in a standard trigger kit in and it was still doing it, although not to the same extent.

[BiNumber3]

well, you might also try a different trigger frame, I've found some frames can react readily with an RT whereas some won't RT if my life depended on it.

[CatoRockwell]

thats a good point. I'm going to try my tac-one frame on it and see how that goes... if it fixes it then I know to replace it, wouldn't bother me, I got one of those crappy benchmark frames with the pull safety. I'll let you know how it works out.

[Ando]

You could also try buying a dif on/off pin. Longer one.

[CatoRockwell]

You could also try buying a dif on/off pin. Longer one.

hmm, the only thing about that that I wonder about is that I swapped out the ULT for a standard trigger kit which included changing out the on/off and although less reactive it still was.

[Ando]

So now you don't have enough reactivity or was that a typo? Your best bet is buy the longest pin they sell, slap it in and see what you get. If you don't like the re-activeness, start shaving it down till you get it where you want.

Did you mic out both on/off pins? They could very well be the "same length" even tho one is longer then the other due to your ULT on/off uses shims. Adding shims is like shaving down your pin even tho your not actually doing it. Your basically lengthening the on/off body in turn shorting your pin. Try eyeballing it if you don't have a micrometer. Use the longest one in the stock on/off and see how it goes.

[CatoRockwell]

it was less reactive with the standard, but it still would burst fire a bit. Trying to knock it down to where it should be Semi-auto

[CatoRockwell]

Foamies

Ok, so far we've got it working, I just got my replacement foamies from AGD. This is a really stupid question but, how do I get the new foamies on, do I have to purchase my own adhesive, or is their like a tear off sticky?

[WickedKlown2]

Ok, so far we've got it working, I just got my replacement foamies from AGD. This is a really stupid question but, how do I get the new foamies on, do I have to purchase my own adhesive, or is their like a tear off sticky?

Clean the bolt face off really good and the get you some Lock-Tite Gel Super Glue... Apply gel super glue to one side of the foamy,,, line it up and press it in and hold for a minute... let sit for 30 minutes and then it will be ready to rock and roll again... Just don't dry fire the bolt and you shouldn't lose the foamy...

Hope that helps...

WK2

[Spider-TW]

it was less reactive with the standard, but it still would burst fire a bit. Trying to knock it down to where it should be Semi-auto

Make sure the field strip screw (rear frame screw) is snug and is pulling the valve down on the rail. Sometimes the screw needs the urethane "washer" to get the valve tight. The screw should be pulling the valve down on the rail, not bottoming in the valve. Also look at the rail for any dings that could keep the valve from sitting down on the rail. These things act like shims in the on/off.

Since you've tried different on/offs, I would look there at the rail/valve fit or at the sear for excessive wear.

[Ando]

You don't really need the foamies. I been running one of my lvl 10's without one for 6+ months now. Just to lazy/keep forgetting to install it.