Originally posted by OPBN
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How old is the battery? If it is more than 5 years old, then you will probably need to replace it. Older batteries do not hold a charge very well. Lots of us were having charge issues until we replaced the worn out battery pack.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts. -
I didnt think the battery was more than a couple of years old. I saw a link about two years ago where the previous owner bought a new one from KC. I assumed that would be about the age. I guess I should ask him. Are these batteries like ones found in cordless drills in the way they retain a charge for a good length of time? The battery that I have seems to pretty much lose the charge overnight.Originally posted by athomas
Ok about the shimsin the LvlX. I guess I am a little confused about how they work. Need to go through the CD again.
Regulator Seat O-ring.. is this the one that is forward of the piston on the front of the regulator that the pin goes through? I keep trying to blow the exploded diagram of the valve up, but it pixelates and I can't read anything. Not to be a noob, but how would this cause air to leak through the adjustment hole? Wouldn't it still need to pass past the outer piston O-ring and/or the inner piston oring/flap?Last edited by OPBN; 12-14-2009, 05:25 PM.Comment
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A good set of batteries will hold a charge for quite a while. Newer generation batteries are much better at this than older technology. The problem with rechargeable packs, is that you can't let them sit dead for long periods of time. If a pack sits and goes "past" dead, the it is possible that one of the cell polarities can reverse. If this happens, you can reclaim the pack with a few proper charge/discharge conditioning cycles.
For your level 10 info, the CD is a good place to start, but there is much more up to date to information available here on the forums that wasn't available when the CD was originally made.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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You would be correct in your thought.Originally posted by OPBN
The reason I suspect it might be the reg seat oring, is that the leak goes away for a bit when you shoot the gun. The leak returns after it sits for a bit. This is classic symptoms for a reg seat oring leak. The regulator piston assembly is designed to release excess pressure. If the regulator seat oring leaks, the regulator leaks high pressure air into the chamber causing the pressure to exceed the piston assembly bleed off setting. This leak might be small, so it doesn't happen instantly. This is the leak out the back you are experiencing. If it was just a constant leak out the back when adjusted above a certain value, then I would say you have a worn out piston assembly (which you may have anyway), but a leak that grows over time is consistent with a reg seat oring problem.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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OK, I think I get what you are saying. I'll try pulling the o-rings out again and thoroughly cleaning and reoiling again. If this doesn't work, I will try pirating some others from my X valve. I need to place an order anyways, so I might as well pick up some spares.
Would it be possible as well when I took apart the piston assembly and flipped the inner o-ring that I didn't tighten the inner set screw enough, thus lessening the effectiveness?Comment
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Sorry for leaving you hanging OPBN.
Baa...That safety is always a pain in the A double S. I figured you knew how to pull it out. That was my bad. I might have a spare spring and ball in my kit that I can send ya. I'll have to ck first tho. I'll PM ya after I rummage through my stuff.
Open the piston and tighten the set screw all the way down. As long as that seal is still good and not torn, I promise that will fix your reg leak. I've done it on 2 of my RT's and I know a hand full of others on the forums have done it, all positive results.
About your battery...See if you have a Batteries Plus Store in your area. I would take it to them over a radio shack. I've used them a few times and I know for a fact they do free battery testing. At least the one by me does. You could also have them change out any bad cells (if you have any). It shouldn't cost much. I know ArmyEngineer had them put his whole E-mag battery together for about $16.
Here's the link to Army's thread:
BatteryPlus search for Ohio:
Last edited by Ando; 12-14-2009, 10:01 PM.Comment
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I was already missing the ball from the last time I took it out. I didn't realize there was supposed to be a ball in it and I thought I heard something bounce, but couldn't find it. So figured I was losing my mind. I realized my mistake when I put it back together and it wasnt working right. Oops. Already have an order I am putting together, so I'll have it fixed.
It was too late and the kids were in bed to start pulling stuff apart and teching tonight, so I'll see what happens with the reg tomorrow. Will update. We have some sort of battery store around here, so I'll give them a call. The kid at the RS was actually pretty decent, so I may give him a call. Seemed really helpful and offered tp build me a new battery pack if I needed.Comment
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Ok, so I finally got time to fart around with this again. I pulled the valve, and inner piston apart, tightened it and put it back together. No more leaking. Yay me!. Unfortunately, after leaving the battery on the charger overnight and airing up, no joy. Without the battery on, the valve fires well, even RT's a decent amount. On E-manual, it RT's more, but on strictly E-mode, zip, nada, nothing. I can hear the solonoid clicking, but it simply isn't doing anything. When I take the valve off and put into the back of the body and over the hole where the sear hits, it hits my finger pretty hard, so I am assuming the solinoid is still ok. Would this indicate that plunger needs adjusting?Comment
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what voltage is the battery putting out when its done charging?
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I have no idea. The previous owner said it's a KC battery and only 1 1/2 years old, so I think the battery is good. As mentioned, when I put my finger on the sear, it defintiely is pushing the sear with what I think is enough force.Originally posted by kcombs9Comment
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Right on. That's how I ck the plunge myself. I put a little bit of force with my finger in the hole. If it's smacking the hell out of it, then it's safe to say the plunger is good to go.Originally posted by OPBN
Lengthen the plunger .005 at a time and recheck it. Should fix the problem.
Getting a pair of calipers should be #1 priority
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Last edited by Ando; 01-14-2010, 10:49 PM.Comment
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I picked up a pair of centech (offbrand) calipers from Harbor Freight a couple weeks ago for around $14. I took them in to the calibration guys at work and they said they were spot on. I think the battery life on those calipers is okay, but you would do well to take the cells out when they aren't going to be used for a while. Harbor Freight also has a $3 multimeter that is fairly accurate according to one of our techs. If you have a HF nearby, it is definitely worth $20 for a decent caliper and a cheap pocket multimeter.Originally posted by AndoRight on. That's how I ck the plunge myself. I put a little bit of force with my finger in the hole. If it's smacking the hell out of it, then it's save to say the plunger is good to go.
Lengthen the plunger .005 at a time and recheck it. Should fix the problem.
Getting a pair of calipers should be #1 priority
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http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=dig...pers&_osacat=0Comment
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Ok time to post up in here.
### Do this all in MECH MODE and pressure set to 7-800psi
Bolt stick on an R/T valve can only be a few things.
Check in this order.
1) take the bolt without the spring and drop it into the body and make sure it moves freely in there.
2) take all shims and carriers out of the powertube. Go big on the carrier and find the first one that doesn't leak (do this WITHOUT shims) Then add two shims and add or remove one as necessary
3) reassemble the gun and torque the frame screw and field strip with an allen key 1/4 to 1/2 turn past finger tight.
Now, fire up the gun with the velocity screw out till you see the ring on the screw. Fire and screw it in until it fully fires. Then add 1/2 turn.
Shoot it a few times in mech mode, and then swap over to E and rip on it and see if you get any bolt stick.
If bolt stick, you need to balance your springs out against the pressure of the level 10 carrier. Bolt stick means that the force of the spring is greater than the force exerted by the power piston in the bolt.
To remedy this, go down a spring. (red>gold>silver) If one spring down is too light, stretch it out some and adjjust as necessary. If all your springs still show bolt stick, go up 1/2 carrier size.
Please post your finding.Comment
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