Leak Down Barrel

[Advanced]

UPDATE 1/18/10 3PM EST
The sear and bolt appear to be heavily worn, I think these may be the culprets, though I'm going to do a complete oring rebuild as well. Here are pictures:




Hi,

I've got an Automag RT (The original, not pro, not retro).

Upon airing up the marker, there is a loud gush of air down the barrel. The trigger does not charge, it's just straight air down the barrel.

Everything is stock.

Where should I start?

[secretweaponevan]

Hi,

I've got an Automag RT (The original, not pro, not retro).

Upon airing up the marker, there is a loud gush of air down the barrel. The trigger does not charge, it's just straight air down the barrel.

Everything is stock.

Where should I start?

You should start with Automag 101.

Pull and hold the trigger while gassing up.
If it leaks down the barrel, you have a leak in your on/off.

Release the trigger.
If it leaks down the barrel with the trigger at rest, you have a leak in your powertube.

[Advanced]

You should start with Automag 101.

Pull and hold the trigger while gassing up.
If it leaks down the barrel, you have a leak in your on/off.

Release the trigger.
If it leaks down the barrel with the trigger at rest, you have a leak in your powertube.

Ok, leak is when the trigger is held down. It almost sputters a little too, but mostly a heavy, consistent gush.

Onto the ON/OFF. Now what to look for?

[Advanced]

Ok, leak is when the trigger is held down. It almost sputters a little too, but mostly a heavy, consistent gush.

Onto the ON/OFF. Now what to look for?

Ok, I pulled the ON/OFF assembly out. I unscrewed the brass parts, everything looked ok. Gave a very, very slight moistening with oil.

Now, when I gas it up holding the trigger, it's silent. Upon releasing it, it leaks out the front.

On/off fixed, onto the power tube...

[Advanced]

Ok, I pulled the ON/OFF assembly out. I unscrewed the brass parts, everything looked ok. Gave a very, very slight moistening with oil.

Now, when I gas it up holding the trigger, it's silent. Upon releasing it, it leaks out the front.

On/off fixed, onto the power tube...

Still leaking, I give up.

[secretweaponevan]

Still leaking, I give up.

(I am assuming you have an original level 7 bolt)
Did it work before?

If so, replace the powertube o-ring.

If you have a spring in the powertube is is more than likely worn out and should be replaced by a spacer kit available from Tunaman (http://www.tunamart.com) or AGD. If you do have a spacer in the powertube and you still have the powertube leak after you replace the o-ring you should move to a smaller spacer.

Since your on/off top teflon o-ring did the "lawn sprinkler", you should replace it before it totally gives up the ghost mid-game.

[Advanced]

(I am assuming you have an original level 7 bolt)
Did it work before?

If so, replace the powertube o-ring.

If you have a spring in the powertube is is more than likely worn out and should be replaced by a spacer kit available from Tunaman (http://www.tunamart.com) or AGD. If you do have a spacer in the powertube and you still have the powertube leak after you replace the o-ring you should move to a smaller spacer.

Since your on/off top teflon o-ring did the "lawn sprinkler", you should replace it before it totally gives up the ghost mid-game.

Power tube has a spacer in it, an oring behind it(no spring). I'm going to just buy an RT parts kit and replace everything. I think that should fix my problems.

Hopefully the paintball store will be open tomorrow with the holiday, otherwise I'm going to order it online since I won't have time during the work week.

[kcombs9]

not many local pro shops still carry agd parts kits but if they do count your self lucky

[Ando]

Tuna will be open tomorrow

He ships out very fast.

[Advanced]

Tuna will be open tomorrow

He ships out very fast.

I noticed one more thing....hopefully this helps to narrow down my problem further.

The bolt seems to be staying back, but if I push it back a little further with a wooden spoon, the leak stops. It appears the bolt is not staying back quite as far as it needs to.

Solutions?

[Ando]

Replace your spring

[athomas]

If the trigger is coming forward then it is not the bolt spring. If the spacer is too long, it holds the oring too far back. When at rest the bolt stem never contacts the oring. By installing a shorter spacer, it allows the oring to come forward and seal against the back of the bolt stem. The change in sealing ability is often due to wear on the sear which then allows the bolt to sit farther forward than when new.

[secretweaponevan]

Also check to ensure that your rail bushing is in place.

Without it, the valve will sit a tiny bit back farther, while the bolt will stay in the same position by the sear. This could cause a powertube leak as well.

Here is a picture of one protruding from the rear of the rail behind the sear.

[Advanced]

Also check to ensure that your rail bushing is in place.

Without it, the valve will sit a tiny bit back farther, while the bolt will stay in the same position by the sear. This could cause a powertube leak as well.

Here is a picture of one protruding from the rear of the rail behind the sear.

I have an RT classic, no rail bushing because of the banjo.

Does the RT classic use the same sear as the classic?

[Advanced]

I have an RT classic, no rail bushing because of the banjo.

Does the RT classic use the same sear as the classic?

Updated main post, see first thread for new pictures.